Removing Rear SubFrame?


#1

I’m getting ready to remove the rear subframe to do the following:

  1. swap diff from 4.10 to 3.73 (anybody need a 4.10 diff?)
  2. subframe bushings
  3. eccentric RTAB’s
  4. stainless brake lines

I’ve changes the sub-frame bushings and Trailing Arm bushings on my Z3
so I’ve done this job before. My question is how to support the rear of the car
to remove the sub-frame without a lift? I’m thinking about cutting grooves in
two blocks of wood to make "adapters" that will fit the stock jack points and
then placing jackstands under those. I’m interested in how others have done
this.

thanks,
Steven


#2

Steven540i wrote:

[quote]I’m getting ready to remove the rear subframe to do the following:

  1. swap diff from 4.10 to 3.73 (anybody need a 4.10 diff?)
  2. subframe bushings
  3. eccentric RTAB’s
  4. stainless brake lines

I’ve changes the sub-frame bushings and Trailing Arm bushings on my Z3
so I’ve done this job before. My question is how to support the rear of the car
to remove the sub-frame without a lift? I’m thinking about cutting grooves in
two blocks of wood to make "adapters" that will fit the stock jack points and
then placing jackstands under those. I’m interested in how others have done
this.

thanks,
Steven[/quote]
if the 4:10 is an LSD then sell it at e30tech.com
I thik the blocks on the jack points would be fine. That is how I got the subframe out of the wrecked car I had.


#3

I have jackstands that already have grooves in them so I used those. Make sure not to put jacks on the metal retaining plate for the subframe bushings ( I almost did it :slight_smile: ). A far as using wood to help support the car – I know people use this method a lot, but I am always afraid that wood will crack and break when you are under the car….

Igor


#4

Igor wrote:

[quote]I have jackstands that already have grooves in them so I used those. Make sure not to put jacks on the metal retaining plate for the subframe bushings ( I almost did it :slight_smile: ). A far as using wood to help support the car – I know people use this method a lot, but I am always afraid that wood will crack and break when you are under the car….

Igor[/quote]Haaaa…I did put the stands on the retaining plate and had to move them…good call!


#5

Steven,

Keep us posted on how this goes for you. These are going to be some of the many projects I’m going to be taking on this fall/winter.

Dropping the sub frame is the one I’m dreading the most.

BTW: you may want to install your ss brake lines while you have the rear out


#6

Scott,

SS Brake Lines are one of the items I mentioned above. This job should be
relatively easy since I’ve done it before and have the sub-frame bushing
removal tool. My biggest concern is getting the car stable on jackstands.

Steven


#7

Steven540i wrote:

[quote]Scott,

SS Brake Lines are one of the items I mentioned above. This job should be
relatively easy since I’ve done it before and have the sub-frame bushing
removal tool. My biggest concern is getting the car stable on jackstands.

Steven[/quote]Stephen’s sub-frame bushing tool ROCKS…Thanks again for that.


#8

Ditto on replacing those stainless lines when the subframe is out. You can do it with the subframe in place (I did this weekend) but it is a bear, especially without a lift!
Ed


#9

OK, I now have the subframe back in place with the new bushings. Everything has went together nicely except for the plates that mount to the bottom of the subframe mounts and the body. The two holes that mount to the body are not lining up on either side of the car. There seems to be zero play room with the subframe and modifying these is more than likely prohibited.

Anyone else have this issue?


#10

Yeah, that happens sometimes. You shouldn’t have to hog out the holes to get it back together, though.

You might try leaving the 22mm nut slightly slack, (run it down tight and back off a full turn or two) and find a phillips screwdriver or similar that is about the correct size to slide through one of the bolt holes, using it as a locating dowel to persuade the plate into position so that you can start the bolt beside it…Once you get one threaded the other should follow.


#11

How much for the 4.10? only if it is a LSD…


#12

O/T
Ric, Thanks for the gift cards…Did the radio work out?