5mm absolute toe out on both left and right sides is IMO undrivable.
Adjusting toe and camber with eccentric rtabs is not Infantry simple. A person has to sit down and figure out the geometry. Get a baseball bat or some other kind of long rod and sit behind the car. Use the baseball bat to visualize the axis that one of the rear wheels turns on.
Hmm. I’ll try to describe this in detail for the left rear. Sit behind the left rear of the car with the baseball bat. Put your right hand at the end of the bat and your left hand at center. Now support your left hand on your knee so it can’t move. Then move your right hand in a circle of a dia of 2" or so and note the opposite motions of the other end of the bat which is sticking out to the left.
With the bat replicating the wheel’s axis of rotation, you are replicating what happens to wheel toe and camber when you move the eccentric at the inner rtab for the left wheel.
Now support your right hand on your knee so it can’t move. Then move your left hand around in the same 2" dia circle and note the way the end of the bat moves. Now you are replicating adjusting the outer rtab.
You can see how adjusting rtabs adjust both toe and camber simultaneously. The goal is to get your toe correct while getting your camber as correct as possible. It takes some trial and error.
Now imagine a circle with 3, 6, 9, and 12 o’clock. Consider that as you move the eccentric around 3 or 9 you get a lot of vertical change (camber), but not much horiz change (toe). This is key to making the whole thing work.
For example…lets say you get your toe right, but you need to fix camber. So you have to ask yourself…“where can I get a bunch of vertical change w/o screwing up the horiz change?” Then you look at your rtabs and the outer eccentric is at 6 and the inner eccentric is at 3. So you choose to fool with the inner eccentric because since it’s at 3, you can get a lot of vertical change for your money.
Note that you will have to play with the rtabs a little, rotating them around and around and carefully watching the movement of the bushings. This will allow you to figure out where 12 is on the eccentric. Then mark 12 on the nut in a way that you can keep track of it.
Go get a digital level so you can check camber yourself. It’s little tricky to get absolute camber, but since you already know what your camber is, you can use the level to measure change. For example, what ever the level reads on your 4deg wheel now, if you want to end up with 3deg, then just get a degree less than whatever the level says.
Be sure to get a level that isn’t too tall, otherwise it won’t fit between fender and garage floor. Like mine. Oops.