Ready Rebuilt Heads


#41

Long story short that shaft did not move very far and I was not willing to force it any further. Pulled the head…stripping it now, just the valves springs and he cam left to remove. Then to the machine shop to clean and inspect. Question is this. Other than the camshaft and the good valves, is there anything I should not replace? I have heard to even replace the rocker arm shafts but I really can see no reason for that, but would do so if advised from this forum those aside. The plan is to replace:
Springs both rocker arm and valve
rocker arms probably go with ie hd
Valve guides and seals-green vinton
Spring cups
Spring retainers
Worn valves
Exhaust manifold studs
Valve adjustment eccentric , nut , bolt
Head bolts
Intake and exhaust gaskets
Front camshaft seal

Again Are new shafts really needed?
Is any of this unnecessary?
Finally…

How can I tell if the camshaft is worn enough to warrant replacing


#42

[quote=“bronzite30” post=72148]Long story short that shaft did not move very far and I was not willing to force it any further. Pulled the head…stripping it now, just the valves springs and he cam left to remove. Then to the machine shop to clean and inspect. Question is this. Other than the camshaft and the good valves, is there anything I should not replace? I have heard to even replace the rocker arm shafts but I really can see no reason for that, but would do so if advised from this forum those aside. The plan is to replace:
Springs both rocker arm and valve
rocker arms probably go with ie hd
Valve guides and seals-green vinton
Spring cups
Spring retainers
Worn valves
Exhaust manifold studs
Valve adjustment eccentric , nut , bolt
Head bolts
Intake and exhaust gaskets
Front camshaft seal

Again Are new shafts really needed?
Is any of this unnecessary?
Finally…

How can I tell if the camshaft is worn enough to warrant replacing[/quote]

Re. worn camshaft. Look hard at the leading surfaces of the cam lobes, especially near the top of the lobe. Look for discoloration or a change in surface texture. Most old cams are worn a bit. You might ask the machinist for their opinion of your cam lobes. Also look at the cam’s bearing surfaces for wear, likewise look closely at the cam’s journals (the holes in the head that the cam spins in). Wear to either creates an oil pressure problem. You can find a new cam for <$200, but if the head’s cam journals are worn, that turns the casting into a door stop.

Things you don’t need to replace.
Exhaust studs
Valve springs and cups.
Rocker eccentrics and nut.
Rocker clips. You might have called this a spring but it’s really a clip.
Valves, as long as they are straight and have enough material left for machine shop to grind new surface.
Valve guides as long as they aren’t sloppy loose. A little loose is ok, because race car.
Replacing your rockers is not a “must do”, it’s a “nice to do” so it depends on your budget.


#43

So do you agree new rocker arm shafts are not needed?


#44

[quote=“bronzite30” post=72155]So do you agree new rocker arm shafts are not needed?[/quote]Yes, not needed.


#45

Note I did test valves for leakage using the water test per Bentley manual. There was only a very small seepage so I feel like valves are sealing fairly well and hopefully have enough material for a resurface…Is it recommended to let the machine shop to grind the new valve surface? That looks pretty simple.


#46

The drip test is pretty rough. 160psi air will find a way out that water drips didn’t. Think “surface tension” not the size of the molecules. The drip test won’t show the difference between a terrific seal and an "ok’ seal. Have the machine shop do the valve job. You might emphasize to them that it’s a race engine and that if they need extra $$ for the valves to be handlapped post grind, you’ll be happy to pony up some additional $$.


#47

Machine shop that has the head suggesting to add shims to the valve springs to add about 10 lbs of pressure from 70 to 80 lbs. is this allowable? Concerns? More cam wear etc?


#48

It’s important to understand how our rules work. If the rules say “you can put in aftermarket springs” then you can. In the absence of that, you can’t screw with the springs.

Things to think about…

  1. Metric Mechanic thinks that for OEM cam and redline, our springs are stronger than they need to be.

  2. It already takes ~19ftlbs to turn the cam. You’ll be adding to that. Caveat: Those are testbench #'s to get the cam to turn. Keeping it moving on an hot engine is probably less.

  3. Yes, it will be tougher on the cam and rockers.

  4. If folks were experiencing valve float, we’d know it by now.

Aftermarket cams like stiffer springs because they tend to be taller (more lift) and fatter (therefore faster drop on trailing edge. That means stronger springs can be necessary to get the valve closed quickly enough.