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Can any of you professional painter’s out there give me some words of wisdom on painting with rattle cans.
I just want to do a little artistic work on hood and trunk. What is the best surface preparation over existing paint? What should I do between coats? Thanks for the insight.
Keith
I’m getting ready to do some of the same. I will use vinyl, but I’ll also be applying some of my own color. Any recommendations about brand of paint, in addition to the questions already posed?
Sasha
Vinyl would be a good alternative to paint. Its not necessarily permanent but will hold up to pretty harsh racing conditions.
I just had www.paintscratch.com custom match my orange car color and I got two cans of spray paint. I just sprayed my bumper and spoiler today since some of the aweful bronzit was peeking through the rock chips. It didn’t come out as good as I had hoped but after all its a race car and I’m sure I’ll need to touch it up often to keep it looking good.
Keith:
What is the design? Any pics?
Also, for those who want to clean the interior, the Armour All Orange pre treated towels work well for cleaning general crud from the interior. They clean fairly well and are easier to control than traditional spraying and wiping.
Carter
my roomate painted his entire car with rustoleum. It came out pretty good after alot of wet sanding.
Krylon has always worked very well for me. It’s not just the paint, but the quality of the nozzle that helps. Budget, no-name brands of paint have been a hit/miss deal for me over the years.
I’ve also had excellent results from RustOleum and Tru Valu’s X-Orust brands.
The key for me with race car paint is to pick a color that you can get off the shelf at walmart or lowes. I matched up some kind of red for the ITS car. I just spray it every now and again as needed to keep the 50/50 rule satisfied.
Custom mixes can get expensive.
Michael
So what’s the proper technique as far as pre-paint preparation and between coats? Such as what grit sandpaper to use to prep the existing paint, do you lightly sand between paint coats? I’m going to basically be doing the hood and trunk lid…Thanks and let’s all have a awesome New Year’s.
Keith
you can also get farm implement/industrial spray paint colors (e.g. john deere green, husqvarna orange, ford red, etc.) that are quite vibrant.
cheers,
bruce
So what’s the proper technique as far as pre-paint preparation and between coats? Such as what grit sandpaper to use to prep the existing paint, do you lightly sand between paint coats? I’m going to basically be doing the hood and trunk lid…Thanks and let’s all have a awesome New Year’s.
Keith
The final sanding before painting should be done with no coraser grit than 400. Sanding between finish coats isn’t necessary. But the final coat should be wet sanded with 800 or better and then rubbed out if you want that shiny look.
I have myy doubts as to how well a rattle can is going to work for this. Those are big areas and a rattle can doesn’t have the volume and pattern size to sweep a wet coat on the whole surface. That means that you’ll have over spray problems that will require a good bit of wet sanding. But you can probably get away with it. A cheap compresser and decent gravity fed spray gun would be a better way (and opens up you choices in paint). And the air compresser comes in handy for lots of other stuff.
The end result will be mostly a matter of how much prep you do. For the best appearance you’d sand to bare metal, repair any dings (move metal first and body filler where necessary. Level out any filler with 80 and then 320 grit. Wipe down with reducer and spray sandable primer. Block sand that with 220 to level and finish sand with 320. Wipe down and spray another coat of primer, mist the surface with a contrasting color (guide coat), and finish block sand with 400 and then 600 grit until the guide coat is gone. Wipe down again and shoot the color coat. Two or more thin color coats are easier than having to sand out runs. After the last coat has cured out (48-72hours), wet sand and polish.
Automotive refinishing supply houses have primer, filler, and paint that much more suitable for automotive use.
OK so I dug out a spray gun that came free with my Cambell Hausfeld comparessor. It is a pressure fed, siphon type gun. It has an internal mix and external mix air cap. Not sure which is best for automotive paint. I played around a bit with some good ole Rustoleum that I used to paint the roll cage. It didnt do to bad, a little orange peel effect on the scrap which if I read correct means I need to thin the paint a bit… I may play around a bit more and go get some real automotive paint…
Keith
Internal mix results in smaller drops which makes it easier to get a uniform coat of paint. Automotive paint, or any other paint intended for spray application, when coupled with the right reducer will flow out better and have less orange peel.