Ranger's Oil Pressure Adventure


#1

WTF is going on with my car?

My oil filter is remoted and I have a large oil cooler. There are 15psi OP switches near the pump at and the galley that are separated by a checkvalve and Accusump. Therefore they read different information. There is an OP sensor at the galley to provide a conventional OP reading and another at the Accusump to indicate when the sump is discharging.

Finally, there is a sensor near the pump that is connected to the Traqmate. This log if the oil pump sucked air. It isn’t a record of OP at the galley tho because the galley OP is supported by the sump.

I lost OP at VIR a couple weeks ago on day 3 of the weekend. It was day 3 that I started pushing harder, day one and two had a lot of rain. When my very bright OP light went on I immed put the car in neutral and rolled off into the grass. A moment later I restarted the car to see what would happen, and OP remained 0.

The next day, at home, my OP was fine.

At Roebling today after a half dozen laps both pump and galley OP lights went on. Both galley and sump’s OP gauges said 0 I put the car in neutral and started coasting with the motor still on. I rev’ed the engine a couple times in neutral to 2500 or so to see what would happen. Still 0 oil pressure.

In the pits I started the car again, still no OP. 20min elapsed and I started the car and my OP was fine.

Since the situation was so strange I started trying oddball things to see if I could affect the symptoms. In order to see if it could be temp or visc dependent, I idled the car for a while and got the oil temp up to about 190deg. No affect…OP was fine. Next I changed my Bosch oil filter just in case it had failed in some unlikely way that prevented it’s bypass from working.

Then I went back out on the track. I was watching the two OP gauges like a hawk. The gauge on the sump was the key because it would tell me that OP loss was forcing it to dump oil into the engine. On lap 6, in the exact same place…turn 6 my OP lights flashed on, but then went off. As the lights went off I watched both OP gauges climb up from ~0. Holy shit.

On the next lap, in the middle of turn 6 again, my lights flashed on. But this time my OP didn’t start climbing up. It stayed at 0. I popped it in neutral, rev’d the motor up a couple times to see if OP climbed (it didn’t), and then coasted into the pits.

Back in the pits I started it again and still no OP. Then I removed the oil pump drive shaft port, which took me prob 15min and ran the oil pump with an impact wrench. Oil pumped fine. Then I put the port plug back on and started the motor…OP was fine. So each time the solution was to let the car sit for 20min.

This is figure-outable. Everything is. It doesn’t happen on straights, it happens on turns. It can’t be a coincidence that it happened in turn 6 both times at Roebling.

Since I’m logging OP I have interesting curves to study. I can see OP dropping in turn 3 and 5. I wasn’t going very hard, but OP was dropping to high 20’s in turn 3. The spare does not have a crankscraper. Watching the OP gauge on the Accusump I could see the sump largely empty itself trying to maintain pressure in 5. Then when the sump needed to get replenished after turn 5, oil quit flowing and it had almost nothing to give.

I gave ChuckB a call about 1/2 way thru the day to see what ideas he might have. The situation is so odd that it’s hard to come up with a theory that fits the symptoms. The only theory we have right now is that there’s something in the oil pan that is able to block the oil pump’s pickup holes when conditions are just right.

I’m going to remove the oil pan this weekend and see what’s up. I’m worried that I’ll find nothing.


#2

Loose wiring on the sensors?


#3

Yeah the symptoms make me think it has to be an issue with the sensors themselves.


#4

too many sensors…


#5

Maybe it has to do with the accusump being empty and the oil pump can not supply oil to the engine and recharge the accusump with hot thin oil???

When it cools down and sits and you restart it can catch back up and refill the accusump and push oil to the rest of the system.


#6

Methinks you’ve tarted up your motor and the lubrication system so badly the oil doesn’t know what it’s supposed to do.

Radical thought: Remove all the aftermarket geegaws, accusumps, plumbing and sensors, and run a simple oil pressure gauge like the 97% of your competitors who are not blowing up motors nor losing sleep over it.

Really, the MTBF (mean time between failure) on your motors is down to about 30 minutes. There is no way that a stock M20 can lunch itself from oil starvation on the pace at which yours are dying. I think you are caught in a circular ring where your solutions are creating your failures.

Simplify, my son, simplify.


#7

I think I have the answer, but it’s too dumb to discuss.

Certainly there some problems with complicating one’s oiling system. The loss of the thermostat is not ideal. Additional fittings create failure points. More plumbing is bad.

Removing the whole damned thing has certainly occured to me. But that would be admitting defeat, and that’s hard.

But if I were to do it again I would retain the OEM oil filter adapter. The rest of the system does work, even if it’s take me a while to understand the various ways that the loss of the thermostat can impact things.

I want that thermostat back. I might find a custom shop that will convert the OEM oil filter adapter to accept AN fittings. That would also simplify my system by removing the remote oil filter.

The return of the thermostat would also simplify the system’s behavior. The oil pump does not pump a helova lot of oil. In the absence of the thermostat it takes a while to fill oil cooler plumbing. Longer if you also have remote oil filter plumbing. And this, so my theory goes, is a big contributor to my oil pressure adventure of late.

Be of good cheer. Don’t think of it so much as “hapless Ranger strikes again”. Think of it as watching a learning process. It’s all good. In the end, tenacity always wins. Well, tenacity with logistical support from credit cards, anyways.

-Hapless Ranger.

Er. I mean ""Learning. Yes, “Learning” Ranger. Getting smarter every week. Better looking too. Smart good looking Ranger. And tenacious.

And debt ridden.


#8

Converting the adapter would be the expensive way. Modifying the ends of oil cooler hoses to accept AN fittings on one end would be cheaper. That was the solution I used to connect my cooler, which has AN fittings, to a stock adapter.


#9

Ranger wrote:

Now THERE is some progress. :laugh: :stuck_out_tongue: :wink:

Seriously, though. You can’t NOT tell us… Waiting…


#10

Yep I want to hear the dumb answer as well.


#11

MoCal makes a remote oil temp diverter (180 degree) to allow use of a block off plate and remote filter. I have one if you must. CB


#12

Might be of interest, we just put an AiM 0-5v, 0-150psi pressure sensor with an adapter in the existing location and kept it simple. We’ve since added abrasion resistance to the loom.

http://www.gormanms.com/2010/04/21/project-se30/


#13

Does OP go to ZERO, or just go really low? Because going to ZERO is very unlikely, I’d assume you still have some amount of flow and the sensor would pick up SOME pressure. ZERO usually indicates a loss of communication with the sensor, or a total loss of power to the sensor. If it’s a true ZERO pressure situation, I’d start simplifying the oil system and remove components that are just added clap-trap.

That’s my opinion based on 8 years of automotive testing and instrumentation, not my experience with the M20 motor though…