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Provided you get all of the water out of the block and liberally spray the sensitive parts with WD-40 there’s nothing wrong with pressure washing the block with the head off. I prefer having the sump off, so that water can’t collect there and so I can lube the bottom end after cleaning.
There’s no need to flush the oil immediately after firing the engine. It would be best to run the engine long enough to get the oil temperature above 200F for 20-30 minutes before changing the oil.
jlevie wrote:
[quote]
There’s no need to flush the oil immediately after firing the engine. It would be best to run the engine long enough to get the oil temperature above 200F for 20-30 minutes before changing the oil.[/quote]
This motor has been sitting around in my garage open for 6 months. I thought that I’d flush a couple quarts of cheap oil thru it before I started the motor. I’ll use thin oil that might have a prayer of carrying out the worst of the particles that are sure to be inside. Since I have to prime it via the oil pump drive shaft, it’s just an extra step and $6 worth of cheap oil.
Tranny is now connected to all of it’s various things. I’d have to say that the idea of it being easier to pull out motor and tranny as a unit, then motor alone, is no slam dunk. Connecting the tranny to it’s various things is a pita. The only thing hard about putting the motor in and then connecting it to the tranny is the top bolts. And if you have a buddy and lots of socket extensions, those bolts can be knocked out without that much difficulty.
I lost the better part of an hour trying to put in the transmission support and the new bushings. Eventually I figured out that the transmission support is not symmetrical and there is a right side and a left side.
I also figured out that the tranny will mate up with the driveshaft easier if the guibo is on the tranny, and not on the driveshaft. If guibo is on the driveshaft, then you’ve got to deal with a 1.5" long shaft coming out of the tranny that pokes into the guibo. And you can either be under the car watching the insertion of one into the other, or you can be the guy on the engine hoist jockeying the motor/tranny around. But not both.
As luck would have it, some guys broke down in front of the house and they needed a tow strap. I loaned them a tow strap in exchange for jockeying the motor/tranny around.
Hours later, it’s starting to look tho like they might have confused “loan” and “give”. Such is the penance of the Samaritan.
And a final note, I was surprised last night to find that my tranny was 3/4 of a qt low on fluid.
I removed the (lol). It just seemed…wrong.
One of the side projects that got done was redoing some of my oiling system. The objective was to make it a bit more “flexible”. The problem is the NPT fittings. Remote Oil Filter Adapters and aftermarket oil coolers predominantly use NPT fittings. And that creates trouble because NPT fittings use a tapered thread. That is to say that an NPT bolt isn’t shaped like a cylinder, it’s shaped like a pyramid. So the male and female fittings are designed to distort each other a bit when you tighten them. And that creates a couple problems…
Or you find that the fitting is pointed close enough to the desired direction, but all the sudden your oil filter adapter needs to be turned on the block a little more. So you tighten it up a little and now the fitting is pointed the wrong way. And your only alternative is for the remote filter adapter to be kinda loose on the block. Oh, that’s just great.
The solution to this is to try to stay away from NPT fittings. Instead use as many JIC swivel fittings as you can. JIC is hydraulic for AN. Same 37deg mating surface. They just aren’t anodized AL. The pic below shows my remote oil plumbing at the block. The T connector is now JIC and there are enough swivel fittings that I no longer have NPT fittings creating problems. I can tighten the couple NPT fittings down and no matter how they end up, the JIC swivel fittings can fix the orientation. 
I picked up the head from the machine shop this afternoon. It passed the inverted drip test with flying colors. No drips past the closed valves in a minute of monitoring.
I sealed the coolant hole in the back of the head with AKG’s kit and locktited the head’s oiling tube. I chased the bolt holes in the block and cleaned them out with Qtips.
I had to replace a fuel injector because my intake manifold still had one that had not been cleaned and flow tested.
I was going to put the manifolds on and then put the whole assembly on. That’s certainly faster, but it makes it a 2 person job. And since it’s a pita to get a neighbor to come help, I decided to put the head on first, and then struggle with the damned manifolds tomorrow.
Then I put the head on and fastened it down. The head fastening protocol is 22ftlbs +90deg +90deg. Just out of curiousity I noted that the first 90deg gives you 40-42ftlbs and the second 90deg gives you around 50ftlbs. At that point you can kinda feel that the bolt is twisting, as opposed to the threads turning. I used a little motor oil instead of moly to lube the headbolts.
I feel strongly that motor oil is a better approach. If BMW wanted the more slippery moly lube as part of their headbolt procedure they’d have mentioned it.
Ok, I don’t have any moly. I have motor oil tho. .
That’s when I noticed that 1/2 of the exhaust studs were missing. I guess they were missing when I took the head to the machine shop. Fortunately I had spares. I double-nuted them in with red locktite. 
looks good scott! i hope this will be stronger and less trouble than your previous motor.
Braided stainless steel line and hose clamps??? HELL NO!!! Get your oil system right using the right connectors. If you MUST use clamps, go to Mcmaster and look at page 261. These are the best thing you can use on fuel/oil hoses. Note, the 9/16 size is the proper size for 8mm (5/16) high pressure fuel line. Chuck
Maybe it’s not so bad. I talked it over at length last year with the guys at the local hydraulic repair shop that I’ve bought most of my fittings and hose from. They say that the hose and hose barb design was fine for 300psi without hose clamps. I put the hose clamps on anyways for extra security.
Re. McMaster. The pinch clamps? I could do that. I’ll figure what I need to buy and make it happen.
chuck, what connectors would you use?
ranger, did you explain to your hydraulic repair buddies that this application is in a racecar with lots of vibration?
kishg wrote:
[quote]chuck, what connectors would you use?
ranger, did you explain to your hydraulic repair buddies that this application is in a racecar with lots of vibration?[/quote]
Well, ya. But I think that when you walk into a hydraulics place and talk about 100psi it’s hard for them to take you seriously. Their world starts at 1000psi or something like that.
Yes, pinch clamps.
If I use AN line, I use AN fittings, period. In SCCA you cannot use “socketless hose” for oil lines and I don’t know of a tech official that would let you use AN line without AN fittings. The last thing you want is to oil down your tires/the track because of a failure. The other thing, with the oil flow these motors have, all lines to and from the motor/filter/cooler/accusump should be -10 (5/8" ID). Chuck
Well, shit.
An hour ago I was almost ready to fire it up. All I had to do was put the overflow tank on and fill the coolant system. Which is when Murphy struck.
I couldn’t connect the overflow tank’s hose. The port that it normally goes to, just didn’t seem to be there. I thought to myself “am I losing my mind? I could have sworn that it connected right ‘there’. WTF am I missing?”
I took a step back and considered. Water pumps are supposed to be different between early and late cars. I don’t know anything about late cars. I visualized the parts car from which I took this motor. Plastic bumpers. It was a late car. Shit. I had the wrong water pump.
I don’t suppose that there’s an easy way to overcome this? Like maybe I could put a T in another hose? It’s just my spare motor, it’s coming right back out a couple months from now.
I have a spare waterpump, so I could R/R if there’s no reasonable workaround. Is irksome.
You can use a “T” in the hose that feeds the top of the WP (you will have to make that)…assuming you are using the plastic tank on the passenger side from the early cars. Otherwise, If you use the plastic tank on the driver’s side, there is an OEM “T” hose that was used on later cars to accommodate that. Note, radiators and all hoses are different between the early and late cars. You should be able to engineer a fix using hoses from each. CB
Well, it’s not quite vroom vroom yet.
I was at the auto parts store getting something and I asked if they had a water pump. It turned out to be so cheap that I decided it must be a sign.
I couldn’t remember if the water pump could be R/R without removing the harmonic balancer, which I didn’t want to do. Getting the harmonic balancer’s big crank nut off with the motor still in the car would be a problem. I decided that if I could R/R the water pump without removing the harmonic balancer, I’d do that instead of some goofy workaround.
And as anyone who has done this already knews, the water pump does indeed go in w/o having to remove the balancer.
The engine’s all together now. I’m having a problem getting it started tho. I’ve got fuel pressure at the rail and I have spark at the plugs. Plugs are wired in the right sequence. I reseated the electrical connector to the injectors. I called up Jim Levie for ideas and we tried a few things.
I pulled a sparkplug and I can’t really smell fuel coming out of the spark plug hole. So my guess is that the injectors aren’t firing. I’m going to go over the wiring closely, and if I can’t find anything interesting I’ll swap out injector wiring harnesses.
Apparently there is something called a noid light that will tell me if an injector is getting a signal. Maybe I’ll look around for one of them tomorrow.
Noid lights available at Harbor Freight. You should be able to feel them cycling while starting. Try taking a injector out of another rail and put 12v across the leads…you can feel the electromagnet hit. You should feel this when trying to start. CB
are the injectors wired to the screw connector under the intake? fuel lines not reversed? cps and cylinder id cables in the right connectors?
And FWIW, you do not have to take the big crank nut off to remove the harmonic balancer.
Well, it’s a bit of a puzzle. I did some research but I still don’t have an answer.
The injectors get 12V when you turn the car on. The DME gives them a ground when it’s time to fire. 1, 3 & 5 fire, then 2, 4 & 6. So when the car is on, one injector pin should have 12V and the switched pin that goes to the DME should be entirely isolated. No voltage between the two, and the switched pin should not have a path to ground. But I have 3v between the two pins and I shouldn’t have anything.
There does not seem to be a low grade short to ground because there is no continuity between the switched pin and ground. Yet there is 3V between them.
I hooked an LED up between the leads and it’s behavior seems to indicate 3V as soon as the car is on and 12V pulses when it’s supposed to be firing.
All 6 injectors connectors are exhibiting the same symptoms, so both of the switched wires are behaving the same way. I did this testing using a separate, known good injector wiring rail, so the problem is up stream of the wiring rail on the car.
Just for giggles I swapped out DME’s. No change.
Any thoughts?