 |
|
The stock A/C pusher fan that we’ve been running off a switch for additional post session cooling has finally given up, so we are going to replace it with something aftermarket (Spal, etc…) Any reason to go Push vs Pull? Anybody ever had issue with the through the radiator core zip tie mounts?
Yes, I know so people don’t use any fan but that’s not the question at hand (ie I’m going to use a fan!).
+1. A puller will make any work at the front of your engine a pita. A pusher is out of your way.
[quote=“FishMan” post=57781]A puller fan cools better…[/quote]That way you can win the paddock cooling contest.
I went with the pusher. I will never win the paddock cooling contest though since mine is tied into the OEM coolant sensor for turn on at temp. I went the cheap route with the radiator zip ties and have had guys like Jim Levie recommend I not do it, but I haven’t had any issues yet. I figure once I get a new radiator I will fab up some mounts.
What diameter pusher will fit in front with removing the whole front of the car? I know a 12" for sure, but can I get an 18" in from the bottom or by tipping the radiator back?
It depends on the depth of the fan as for having room at the top to fit between the radiator and the top radiator support. I don’t think you will be able to get an 18" in there. I believe mine is a 16", but I am sure a 12" or a 14" will be more than enough.
I would not attach the fan directly to the radiator with the ties that come with the fan. I have heard of the ties wearing through the radiator and causing a leak. I would fab up some type of mount and bolt it to the car.
you can buy mounting tabs from spal. you will need to cut them to length to fit. 12’ is plenty, you only need it on grid anyways.
Well, since I’m stubborn, I went with the 16" pusher. :cheer:
Since you have to drill mounting holes to not use the “through the core” zip ties, just take the radiator out and save yourself the time I spent figuring that I should have just taken it out in the first place.
It’s a tight fit so position carefully…
Parts used 30102047 (2360 cfm, 16"), 2013011 (mtg brkt x4), 30130074 (rubber gasket), FRH (relay harness).
Still need to do the wiring tomorrow.
I learned some lessons from trying to do this a couple yrs ago.
You don’t need a big fan. Done well, a small fan is fine and it will block less air flow.
You have to have some stand off between fan blades and the radiator. I’m not sure how much is enough, but I’d try to get the fan blades a 1/2" away from the radiator.
The fan has to be sealed well against the radiator. Near as I can judge from the pics, you sealed the fan.
You have to have something that interrupts the circular movement of the air and directs it into the radiator. The perfect solution is stationary vanes like a turbine engine has. I used some thin aluminum slats that I fastened to my 12" fan. In the absence of this, the fan just moves air around in a circle.
My cheap 12" fan worked fine until a rubber worm caught in exactly the wrong place and wouldn’t let the fan turn. The fan motor wasn’t strong enough, being cheap and all, and burned out. Note that at first my fan didn’t work with a crap. It took some doing to figure out how to set it up for success. It’s easy to figure out if you are the right track because when you do something right you can feel the air flow thru your radiator by putting your hand behind it. If you can’t feel much air flow, then you have to go back to work on making your fan more efficient.
[quote=“Ranger” post=58386]Note that at first my fan didn’t work with a crap.[/quote]I hope you meant “worth a crap”. Otherwise, I think I understand why it wasn’t cooling optimally.:whistle:
I have a 16" fan. It is mounted directly to the radiator with no cowl or turbine engine vanes of 1/2" seperation, it kicks on with the OEM temp sensor and can cool my engine down at idle to where it kicks itself back off in under 2 minutes. The cooling fan just isn’t worth spending any time on as some guys don’t even run one.