Question on installing remote oil pressure sender

#1

I’ve gotten all the pieces, hopefully, to hook up a remote oil pressure sender for my 89 325i. I got the AN6 hose and 12mm x 1.5adapter to go from existing oil pressure switch port to a distribution block (VAC), then the 1/8 NPT VDO oil pressure sensor. The distribution block also has a second 12mm x 1.5 inlet where I can plug my OEM oil pressure switch for OEM warning light.

My question is, do I need to use teflon tape/putty on any of these fittings to prevent leakage or just tighten?

Thanks.

Keith

#2

If the fitting is AN or has a radius or angled seat, it doesn’t need tape, just tighten. If its just straight threads, use tape, like on the NPT fitting. I don’t like putty, I like tape.

#3

Remember that it’s not just your regular teflon tape…it’s that yellow stuff that’s rated for oil/fuel.

#4

Ok thanks for the hint, I had planned on using what I had on hand but definitely will try and find some other. Hopefully something that the local Autozone caries.

#5

I’ve only used white tape. For lack of knowing any better. But once it gets a little oil on it, it turns yellow. So I’m good, right?

#6

Ranger wrote:

in other words, white tape destroys motors

#7

jtower wrote:

Jason, now that’s funny!!!

#8

I installed the exact same setup except I have a 90deg AN to NPT adapter instead of the VAC block and got it calibrated at autobahn cc south. The pressure seemed to be reading correctly sitting in the paddock. Idle with cold oil sunday morning was 65 and dropped down to about 23 when it warmed up. The oil light only ever came on before when the idle dropped down to around 500rpm. Sunday morning my light came on nearly every corner right and left and according to the datalog dropped to 7psi on corner 3 (high rpm left). I have a stock pan with a crank scraper from IE and an oil pump that looks like it was used to grind rocks. I used 0 ohms equals 0 psi and 180 ohms equals 100 psi and let the datalink software figure out the rest.

Do I need to bleed the oil line? I figured air can carry the pressure to the sender decently enuogh.
How high on the dipstick is a quart high? I was right around the full line.
I think Jim Levie had previously mentioned drilling out the orifice of the pressure sender. Would that make any difference.

#9

[quote=“turbo329is” post=58544]I installed the exact same setup except I have a 90deg AN to NPT adapter instead of the VAC block and got it calibrated at autobahn cc south. The pressure seemed to be reading correctly sitting in the paddock. Idle with cold oil sunday morning was 65 and dropped down to about 23 when it warmed up. The oil light only ever came on before when the idle dropped down to around 500rpm. Sunday morning my light came on nearly every corner right and left and according to the datalog dropped to 7psi on corner 3 (high rpm left). I have a stock pan with a crank scraper from IE and an oil pump that looks like it was used to grind rocks. I used 0 ohms equals 0 psi and 180 ohms equals 100 psi and let the datalink software figure out the rest.

Do I need to bleed the oil line? I figured air can carry the pressure to the sender decently enuogh.
How high on the dipstick is a quart high? I was right around the full line.
I think Jim Levie had previously mentioned drilling out the orifice of the pressure sender. Would that make any difference.[/quote]

#10

[quote=“turbo329is” post=58544]I installed the exact same setup except I have a 90deg AN to NPT adapter instead of the VAC block and got it calibrated at autobahn cc south. The pressure seemed to be reading correctly sitting in the paddock. Idle with cold oil sunday morning was 65 and dropped down to about 23 when it warmed up. The oil light only ever came on before when the idle dropped down to around 500rpm. Sunday morning my light came on nearly every corner right and left and according to the datalog dropped to 7psi on corner 3 (high rpm left). I have a stock pan with a crank scraper from IE and an oil pump that looks like it was used to grind rocks. I used 0 ohms equals 0 psi and 180 ohms equals 100 psi and let the datalink software figure out the rest.

Do I need to bleed the oil line? I figured air can carry the pressure to the sender decently enuogh.
How high on the dipstick is a quart high? I was right around the full line.
I think Jim Levie had previously mentioned drilling out the orifice of the pressure sender. Would that make any difference.[/quote]

It doesn’t sound like you have a calibration problem, but more like an oil pressure problem. Drilling the orifice like Jim suggested will make your sender respond faster. Because you are seeing pressure drops in corners, your sender is plenty responsive.

Your symptoms are indicative of a tired motor with loose rod bearing and possibly main bearing clearances. Also, the IE scraper isn’t enough. You need some sort of baffle to keep oil from climbing out of the pan on hard left handers. Both Metric Mechanic and TC Motorsports have good solutions.