Pulling tranny help

#1

All torx bolts are out and tranny is not dropping, do I just tug and pull like a mutha or am I missing something? It’s an '89 IS.

#2

Did you also remove the starter bolt on the left side of the bellhousing?

#3

Make sure ALL bolts are out. There’s always one (or two) hiding up on top!

Also, check the little bolt holding the metal gasket in between the tranny and motor. It’s a small bolt, but will drive you crazy if you forget it!

Once the bolts are out the tranny should separate with a few tugs.

#4

I had to put a pry bar on mine once because someone didn’t grease the splines and there was a little rust there. That little bolt is key if you haven’t taken it out yet. I think it’s a 10mm.

#5

Looking at the diagram, it appears there are 9 holes for torx bolts, 1 hex and one dowel? I am hoping to start my swap soon.

#6

Loosen the motor mounts and put a block of wood under the oil pan with a jack.

Tilt the motor up carefully, this will give you enough clearance to get at the top bolts.

If you’re going to be doing this a lot take a new starter to a maching shop and have them thread the ‘holes’. Makes it much easier.

#7

That’s a real good idea. I wish I had done that because getting the bolt and nuts back installed for the starter by myself was damn near impossible.

#8

Well…found my problem…#10, I was able to break the Torx free and just kept ratching, figured it was loose and would just pull out when the tranny broke free, I’m a dumbass but thank god for this site and diagrams.

#9

And what is #4, what’s the trick there?

On a side note, tranny that is replacing came in via FedEx and one of the tabs on the mount snapped. Will a tig weld hold and be fine?

#10

#4 is a dowel pin to help align the tranny when installing the bolts. Ask Ranger about dowel pins and their importance. Your talking about the black metal tranny cross member that bolts to the body and the tranny mounts? I would think tig welding that tab back on should work fine, but why can’t you use your old one? If your talking about one of the thick aluminum tabs on the tranny that the bolt for the tranny mounts goes in that might be a little more difficult but can probably still be tigged just fine.

#11

Our junkyard tranny shipped with a broken tab; luckily the broken piece was still in the box. We had it welded and it has held up fine (>1 year).

#12

IndyJim wrote:

Great idea, any problems with the starter coming loose? recommended bolt sizes?

#13

King Tut wrote:

How do you get this dowel out? The black metal cross memeber, is this right above the front sway bar between the tranny and block? There are two bolts there, one just about impossible to remove without removing the sway bar…does this need to be removed as well? The tab I’m talking about is in the rear of the tranny by the guibo, the tab is still in the box it was shipped in so was just going to get that tigged. The other option was to pull the rear cover off the old tranny and swap that out with the new one…any risk damaging or screwing anything up by going this route?

Thinking more about the tranny cross member, I remember two bolts into the tranny and then its an L shape that has another bolt hole that appears it should bolt to something but it is not…it’s just kind of there nor is there anything near the sway bar that would make it seem that it should be bolted to something.

#14

When changing out the old worn seals with new purty ones, would you recommend using a gasket sealer? If so, one that is pliable or one that hardens? Specifically on the input shaft seal & rear engine seal, haven’t got to the others yet.