Car is going to the shop Thurs, and I’m looking for a little guidance on what to set it at for the first time out. I’ll be driving it to/from the track, and would prefer to do it on the Toyos to heat cycle them. I’ve read that the Toyos like 3 deg negative camber for the track, but is that too aggressive for the 2hr drive to Summit and back? Also, any preferences on toe settings, or just stock? I’m hoping Santa brings me a camber tool for the holidays (and any reviews on those would also be helpful).
Preliminary Alignment Specs?
Highway driving won’t really heat cycle the Toyos – they mostly build heat during frequent acceleration-deceleration cycles.
As for you alignment, you don’t have to go to a full -3° of camber just yet, since you’re not racing at the moment… alignment is generally suggested as .125" toe-out up front and centered in back. (Centered in front may lessen tire wear for the street, though.)
Dan, that’s not my understanding regarding heat cycling. I believe when you purchase heat-cycled tires, they simply mount the tires on a rotating device and then press a roller into them to simulate a load and run them for 20 mintues or so. Therefore the drive to the track should count as a heat cycle.
Sasha
In this situation, driving to the track (well at least first time on the new tires) might not be bad as it should help ‘scrub’(the term used very loosely here) the tires. What I mean is that it will help get rid of some of the chemicals used in the manufacturing process of the tire; some estimates (for street tires and driven on the street) put this at around 500 miles IIRC.
Igor
During a BMWCR race at Mid-Ohio last year, the Toyo Rep was there and he stated that the Toyo’s don’t really benefit from heat cycling. Get them shaved and then run them. That is what he said he did and all the other facotry guys who raced on them. I have done it both ways with Toyo’s and belive him.
Just a thought.
Michael O.
E30
GTS1/KP/ITS
For a drive to the track and an HPDE, I would go with 1/8" total toe out at the front and 1.5 degrees of neg camber.
At the rear, 1 degree of neg camber and zero toe.
Carter
Carter’s setup should work pretty good for about anybody. These cars aren’t super sensitive. Just make sure you simulate driver weight in the seat while you align and disconnect the swaybars.
Alignment? I swapped out the suspension, put on camber plates, tilted the front tires in as much as possible and went driving! I drove to the track an hour each way, too, and didn’t notice anything too weird. Of course, I couldn’t tell much in the way of wear on the used Toyos I mounted up, but no chord is showing yet!:laugh:
Sasha the No-alignment Cheapskate
robweenerpi wrote:
Way too technical for me, but I did ‘load’ the suspension before attaching the end links. I followed Carter’s advice and used 1.5 deg for now. I’ll tell you in 3 weeks if it works or not.
I have my toe and camber gauges at the track every weekend I do so feel free to ask for a track alignment check.
Carter
Ex36 wrote:
[quote]Alignment? I swapped out the suspension, put on camber plates, tilted the front tires in as much as possible and went driving! I drove to the track an hour each way, too, and didn’t notice anything too weird. Of course, I couldn’t tell much in the way of wear on the used Toyos I mounted up, but no chord is showing yet!:laugh:
Sasha the No-alignment Cheapskate[/quote]
:laugh: …and I thought I was bad!!
I did my alignment by eye other than making sure the camber was even before I took the car to VIR last week and it did fine. As a matter of fact, I don’t think i’ve ever driven an E30 with a proper alignment.
Although I can properly corner weight my car now. I’ll scare you guys with those numbers later. :evil:
I did my alignment by eye other than making sure the camber was even before I took the car to VIR last week and it did fine. As a matter of fact, I don’t think i’ve ever driven an E30 with a proper alignment.
Although I can properly corner weight my car now. I’ll scare you guys with those numbers later. :evil: