Power steering leak

#1

We have a pretty decent power steering leak coming from the rack. I was wondering, can I just remove the belt, and drain the system. I have searched, and it seems running the rack dry is okay, or do I have to loop the hoses at the rack. I would rather drain the system, and just remove the belt as this a HPDE car that is driven to the track. This way I could drive to the track with my power steering, then drain it when I get there, then fill it back up sunday and put the belt back on for the drive home, because I don’t want to leak power steering fluid all over the track.

I realize this needs to be fixed properly, but running out of time before CMP and was thinking this might be okay, then we could fix it before RA

TIA

Greg

#2

87isMan wrote:

[quote]We have a pretty decent power steering leak coming from the rack. I was wondering, can I just remove the belt, and drain the system. I have searched, and it seems running the rack dry is okay, or do I have to loop the hoses at the rack. I would rather drain the system, and just remove the belt as this a HPDE car that is driven to the track. This way I could drive to the track with my power steering, then drain it when I get there, then fill it back up sunday and put the belt back on for the drive home, because I don’t want to leak power steering fluid all over the track.

I realize this needs to be fixed properly, but running out of time before CMP and was thinking this might be okay, then we could fix it before RA

TIA

Greg[/quote]I like the way the car feels without the PS.
Parking lot stuff is a little tough but you get used to it.

#3

Here is everything you need:

http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,86/func,view/id,20109/catid,3/

#4

Someone recently told me the best way to seal the rack is to fabricate a line that will tie into both sides of the rack. This keeps fluid from building up on either side and causing stiff steering on one side and loose steering on the other side. I don’t know if there is any merit to this, just what someone (who builds racecars) told me.

John

#5

We don’t want to remove the whole system and plug it as this car still sees a lot of time on the street. Just wondering if draining the system and removing the belt would have any ill effects I can’t imagine it would.

Thanks

#6

This is all 3rd hand - but I understand that removing the belt will not damage the system, but it will be more difficult to steer - more difficult than if the whole system is looped or capped. I think it is because you are turning your arms into the pump for the whole system, which is much larger than the downsized system. I would also think that if your leak is from the rack, it is still going to leak. My leak is from the reservoir, so by removing it, I have fixed my problem (I hope).

And John (Drumbeater) - I think there are about 100 different plans on the looping/capping thing. Drain the rack/don’t drain the rack; loop the system/cap the system. If you loop it, there is nothing to buy - if you cap it, it is about 10 bucks. I am personally going to cycle in new mobile 1 synthetic ATF, drain it for the most part, cap it and go. I know of others with this setup, and it is one more line that won’t go bad on me (and the guy behind me, if you know what I mean). I think the jury is still out. I haven’t heard of anyone blowing a rack either way.

#7

I had just the belt off for a year with no ill effects.

Recently I removed everything and capped the rack with the bolts sold on the forum. I turned it lock to lock to pump fluid out and then capped it. I just got the car aligned and was told that with this set-up, the wheel acts a little funny like there’s a build-up of air in the rack that acts a little like a spring when the wheel is turned through a moderate to large deflection. I haven’t driven it around yet, though, so I don’t know how major this problem is.

Sasha

#8

jblack wrote:

Simply removing the belt will do a few things things. (none bad)

#1. Your lines and rack will not be pressurized at all so it may not leak (or it may leak worse because there’s no pressure to close the seals). Not a problem if you drain it.

#2. It will be harder to turn in parking lots. I have been doing this for a few thousand miles so no biggie.

#3. No additional force at steering wheel will be required to turn compared to a looped system. With my car on a lift with the belt off I can spin the steering lock to lock with my pinky. Because #4…

#4. The fluid doesn’t care about turning the pump. That’s not the way it works.

FWIW I’m an aircraft hydraulic system technician.

Regards,
Jamie

#9

I’m sure you know better on this. Like I said - never tried it. I got it from here:
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14489

That is the problem with the Internet - one guy posts bad info and the rest of us spread it like the gospel :slight_smile:

Either way - there is some good info in that thread.

Any thoughts on a rack mostly empty vs. a rack mostly full when you seal it?

#10

FYI to plug the rack fill the banjo bolts with JB weld, let sit for a few days to cure. Instant plug. Ghetto but it works.

#11

I have a set of plugs for them from the other thread. Those and a pair of crush washers, and I’m set. I really wish I could do it, but I don’t have an exhaust on the car right now, and I want to cycle new fluid through before I seal it.

#12

jblack wrote:

A tablespoon of fluid will lubricate it. A gallon will lubricate it; you’ll just have more to leak out. Hydraulic oil will generally wick itself into seals. We aren’t concerned with air bubbles in our application because the fluid is not being used for its primary purpose of power transmission. Instead, we are only interested in its lubricating properties.

I read that entire thread. I was amused when I got towards the end and found the fellow who didn’t know how to capitalize had converted to a loop system because he didn’t bother to check his belt tension.

#13

Ya - like building a bridge over a puddle :slight_smile:

I’m more interested in the “bubble” concept - that the rack is smooth except at great deflection, it feels like pressure is building up (refering back to the post from Ex36). Would more or less fluid increase or decrease that issue?

#14

jblack wrote:

[quote]Ya - like building a bridge over a puddle :slight_smile:

I’m more interested in the “bubble” concept - that the rack is smooth except at great deflection, it feels like pressure is building up (refering back to the post from Ex36). Would more or less fluid increase or decrease that issue?[/quote]

Aha! This is the part where experimentation comes in. No reason to speculate. This is getting fun!:stuck_out_tongue:

Incorrect terminology below, but entertaining.

The Theory: Capping input port creates a vacuum inside that causes a ‘springy’ feel when wheel is turned. Capping return port causes compression, thus, sponginess.

Hypothesis #1: Reducing air in rack will cause vacuum lock (or near enough). Conversely, removing fluid allows more expansion of air, reducing vacuum affect at full lock.

Hypothesis #2: The rack is designed to bypass fluid internally because the pump doesn’t stop pumping just because the wheels are straight. This results in no springiness.:blink:

So, Experiment: Take a car with plugged ports and place front on jack stands. Turn steering wheel from lock to lock. There should be no resistance. (Take binding of brake ducts into account if they are binding.)

Edit: With front on jack stands the upper spring perches won’t necessarily turn because the springs are so short.

That’s it.

#15

I will test and report back, professor :slight_smile:

I still want to flush the system with new before I seal it up. I need to wait for the exhaust to show first - so it will be a bit. Thanks for the help!

#16

Thanks for all the help guys. We will get it sorted out.