Power steering delete -- need a bypass or not?

#1

So, I just installed the Condor PS delete a couple days ago. I did this without turning the wheels lock-to-lock prior to bolting down (hence, no fluid was drained from the rack).

I was reinstalling the rest of the front suspension and when I got the strut/rotors back on, I decided to turn them lock-to-lock to make sure I wasn’t getting a leak.

I heard a bunch of gurgling noises and the PS delete started leaking. I tried tightening the bolts, but it’s the UHMW delete and it looks to be deforming now. And it’s still leaking.

The research I’d done on this seemed to boil down to a few schools of thought:

  1. A PS delete needs a bypass with as much fluid drained prior to install
  2. A PS delete needs a bypass without fluid drained prior to install (not sure if I actually read this or if it’s just what my friend ended up doing)
  3. A PS delete does not need a bypass (I’m guessing the banjo bolts would not tighten down without some sort of spacer)

I’m just wondering what setups are common here and if anyone has had any issues with #1/#2 vs #3.

Also curious if there’s a difference in steering feel between the bypass’d delete vs the non-bypassed delete.

Basically, I’m wondering if I should just buy another delete (maybe the aluminum one this time) or just skip the delete altogether and just bolt the banjos back up. Though, I guess I’d still need to find something to fill the gap between the banjo and the rack.

Som

#2

Opinions differ on the need for bypass or not. The most common solution, I think, is no bypass. Full disclosure, I sell plugs that don’t bypass.

The Condor solution should work fine. The problem is probably that you have too much fluid in your rack and it’s putting a lot of pressure on the Condor bypass. I’d take the bypass off, run the steering wheel from L lock to R lock a couple times, then put the bypass back on.

#3

The bypass is not meant to move fluid thru, its only meant to pass air thru it. Do as Ranger says and your problems are solved.

#4

Makes sense, I’ll give that a shot. Thanks!

Hope I didn’t overtighten/deform the delete. :slight_smile:

Som

#5

For what it’s worth I broke my steering rack at Daytona. With the help of Aaron we swapped it with one from AutoZone and drained all the fluid and ran it as is with no lines since it wasn’t going in well with the lines on the metal rack(previous rack was the aluminum one). I think we put the bolts back in, not that it matters since they have a holes and there was no fluid. I didn’t transfer the bypass block from my old rack either. Feels the same as before.

#6
  1. Remove power steering delete.
  2. Cycle steering all the way lock to lock till fluid stops coming out.
  3. Reinstall power steering delete.
#7

I’m confused. If you remove the fluid what does the delete do for you?

#8

The “delete” completely removed all of the hoses from the PS rack, while sealing the internals from debris which could cause an issue at some point. Plus, if you got noodle arms like Fooshe you can put the PS back on if you feel the need to.

The little passage allows AIR to move between chambers as you steer. Fluid is much more viscous and is what caused your issues.