So, I just installed the Condor PS delete a couple days ago. I did this without turning the wheels lock-to-lock prior to bolting down (hence, no fluid was drained from the rack).
I was reinstalling the rest of the front suspension and when I got the strut/rotors back on, I decided to turn them lock-to-lock to make sure I wasn’t getting a leak.
I heard a bunch of gurgling noises and the PS delete started leaking. I tried tightening the bolts, but it’s the UHMW delete and it looks to be deforming now. And it’s still leaking.
The research I’d done on this seemed to boil down to a few schools of thought:
- A PS delete needs a bypass with as much fluid drained prior to install
- A PS delete needs a bypass without fluid drained prior to install (not sure if I actually read this or if it’s just what my friend ended up doing)
- A PS delete does not need a bypass (I’m guessing the banjo bolts would not tighten down without some sort of spacer)
I’m just wondering what setups are common here and if anyone has had any issues with #1/#2 vs #3.
Also curious if there’s a difference in steering feel between the bypass’d delete vs the non-bypassed delete.
Basically, I’m wondering if I should just buy another delete (maybe the aluminum one this time) or just skip the delete altogether and just bolt the banjos back up. Though, I guess I’d still need to find something to fill the gap between the banjo and the rack.