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Accusump, aftermarket oil cooler, temp gauge and warning light, pressure gauge and warning lights.
http://www.gress.org/Home/Cars/TrackTales/DIY/OilingSystem%20Improvements/OilingPlan.htm
Tell me if any of the pictures aren’t showing up. That’s hard to check when you’re colocated with the webserver.
Ranger, if memory serves me, SCCA does not allow push on hose that does not have a clamp. There have been too many failures on track. Always use a clamp. CB
cwbaader wrote:
I’m using hose clamps, I’m just not using crimp-ons. Altho I do note that the hydraulics place said that their barb fittings and hose were perfectly serviceable to 300psi.
But I’m still using clamps. Seeing a clamp on a hose end gives a person a certain peace of mind.
Good plan to remote mount the electrical sending unit…I have seen them fail attached to the motor.
I like mechanical because they are not dampened and react immediately to changes.
If someone can post it for me, I’ll send a picture of my gauge cluster. I replaced the stock cluster with a custom unit. Chuck
I figured out how to get the oil temp sensor and oil temp switch into the oil flow. Plan now includes installed oil temp sensor and diagram shows how oil temp switch will go in.
Illustrative of how inexpensive this can be with hydraulic fittings, the local shop gave me fittings and hose to remote the oil pressure sensor and switches for free today.
An interesting non-BMW quote From Corner-Carvers
“I have an Autometer Pro-Lite with a 30 psi pressure sender attached to it and mounted in an oil galley. The light comes on when pressure drops below 30 psi. Even autocrossing on street tires (Sumitomo street tires), you’d be amazed how often I see that light on a small block Chevy with a TPIS (non baffled, just crank scraper and diamond stripper style windage tray) that light come on, often for 1-3 seconds. I’d just do the Pro-Lite. You can get 15, 30 or 60 psi sending units.”
http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22651&page=2