 |
|
Anyone have a good source (online or local) that will rebuild the oil cooler lines? I’ve tried some local places and no one has the proper ferrules, dies and crimper to crimp on new hoses. I’m bummed.
Saw the links on here about modifying the hoses, but I’d like to keep the stock style unless someone has a list of what to buy to covert them over to something else.
Thanks!!
bmwpower wrote:
[quote]Anyone have a good source (online or local) that will rebuild the oil cooler lines? I’ve tried some local places and no one has the proper ferrules, dies and crimper to crimp on new hoses. I’m bummed.
Saw the links on here about modifying the hoses, but I’d like to keep the stock style unless someone has a list of what to buy to covert them over to something else.
Thanks!![/quote]
You could always source them used. Ask Al Taylor what he has. I’m sure a few others on here can probably get a hold of them too.
Replacing oil lines is unrestricted in the rules so you could replace with Earls fittings and dash 10 hose. I priced it out at one time on Pegasus but it was bucks for something that isn’t bad (yet). Is it possible to just buy replacement lines? I see Pelican has one of them for $77.
Yea, I’ve considered buying them new, but they cost close to $200 new.
I’ve also considered replacing the lines and installing AN fittings and hose, but I have no idea what to get. Was hoping someone had done it before and knew all the part numbers to buy.
Any new ideas on this front? I’m also looking for a good replacement hose solution. The ones at pick-n-pull all seem to be leaking like mine.
step 1: remove the entire oil cooling system
Step 2: Install the little eta block thingy
step 3. don’t worry about leaky oil cooler lines anymore
Earls makes an adapter. Part # 9919FFKERL. #10JIC to 18mm X 1.5. I didn’t actually use these, I kinda bought them just in case. But I’m pretty sure that they’re right. Although be prepared to use teflon tape or a rubber o-ring.
If you hit my website, go to the performance driving page and then hit the DIY link, you’ll see a write up on setting up a remote oil filter and oil cooler. Lots of good info there about how to do oil plumbing on the cheap.
If you do this, put an oil temp sensor in the flow.
87isMan wrote:
[quote]step 1: remove the entire oil cooling system
Step 2: Install the little eta block thingy
step 3. don’t worry about leaky oil cooler lines anymore[/quote]
There’s a lot of merit in this approach. I can’t help but like the idea since it’s my current setup. But if you remove the oil cooler, allowing air flow to the oil pan becomes important.
Ranger wrote:
[quote]87isMan wrote:
[quote]step 1: remove the entire oil cooling system
Step 2: Install the little eta block thingy
step 3. don’t worry about leaky oil cooler lines anymore[/quote]
There’s a lot of merit in this approach. I can’t help but like the idea since it’s my current setup. But if you remove the oil cooler, allowing air flow to the oil pan becomes important.[/quote]
I know Scott has all the data to support this but my reasoning was that with the oil cooler installed the filter sits right under the exhaust manifolds. I just figured the filter not being under the hot exhaust would keep the oil just as cool as an oil cooler and a heated oil filter!! Every time I changed the oil with the cooler installed the sticker on my K&N filter would be completely melted.
I also agree with Scott that letting air get to the oil pan will help a lot. I don’t run a skid plate because I don’t think a plate allowed under the rules can actually protect the oil pan.
I appreciate the replies. The Earls number is a good pointer that I’ll have to look up.
I saw the monster “deleting the oil cooler” thread and barely made it out with my life. I am looking at the delete option, but I was curious here to see the best way to be lazy and just remove the leaks while keeping the factory design.
Along those lines, Pelican Parts does look like a headache free way to go.
Regards,
Bryan
Bryan,
Might your middle name be “Lightning” ?
I like the look of your car. I also run rewinds.
I have nothing to offer on the cooler lines. Mine are all factory and i am lucky enough that they don’t leak. I am not fond of the delete idea but who am i to argue with the success others have had.
Don
in relation to this which cooler line takes the hot oil and which is the cool return line to the block? I have the factory oil filter location.
In terms of cooling it doesn’t matter.
And I’m not sure. But you can figure it out by looking at the OEM oil filter adapter. Remove the oil filter adapter from the block. The central hole in the block is where oil goes back in. Armed with that info, look at the passages in the oil filter adapter and you should be able to figure out which way oil flows thru the oil cooler.
Thanks, That was my last resort to figure it out. I want to put the oil temp sensor in the line that is coming out right at the fitting to get the most accurate reading.
See some old threads re. getting oil temp in this forum. Obsessed with the oiling system, while I blew up motors, I’ve put OT sensors all over the place. At one point I had 4 of them as I played around with figuring out how OT turned out different depending on how you measured it.
There’s a couple pretty easy ways to do this. VDO makes a sensor that goes in the pan’s plug bolt. Or you can put in an adapter in the plug bolt and put in an Autometer Cylinder Head temp sensor and an Autometer oil temp gauge. Finally, you can weld a bung to the oil pan and put in a sensor, which is the current solution.
Putting an OT sensor in the oil flow is a perfectly workable solution, altho not the easiest to implement.
When you’re looking thru old threads, note also the discussions re. deleting the oil cooler. That’s my personal favorite idea.
[quote=“Ranger” post=53151]Earls makes an adapter. Part # 9919FFKERL. #10JIC to 18mm X 1.5. I didn’t actually use these, I kinda bought them just in case. But I’m pretty sure that they’re right. Although be prepared to use teflon tape or a rubber o-ring.
If you hit my website, go to the performance driving page and then hit the DIY link, you’ll see a write up on setting up a remote oil filter and oil cooler. Lots of good info there about how to do oil plumbing on the cheap.
If you do this, put an oil temp sensor in the flow.[/quote]
I just bought 2 Fragola part # 461018 10an x 18 x 1.5. These should be exactly the same as the earls fittings you mentioned, but when I went to fit the lines, they were way too small… Ranger, did you ever test fit your fittings?
Fittings are 22 x 1.5; I made the same mistake and bought the 18 mm to start with as well. I think Gress is spreading bad Intel on purpose. Shameless! 
Ya, someone told me a couple months ago that I got that wrong. It was so long ago that I was screwing with the oil cooler that I’ve now no idea where I got the 18mm spec from. RealOEM maybe? Sorry I punked you.
