 |
|
I disconnected the battery, disconnected the airbag and removed it. Removed the retaining nut and washer. The wiggle didn’t work, the yanking only bent the steering wheel.
I got out my three pronged puller. Set it up, got it mostly off. Mostly as in not enough to remove the wheel. Towards the end it pitched upwards and bound up on the splined shaft.
Anyone have any tips or tricks? I thought this would be easy and fun… grrr…
Thomas
IIRC, you need to unlock the ignition.
After you removed nut and washer, did you turn the key to the first ‘click’ (to unlock the ignition lock). After this the wheel should pop right off without the need for the puller.
HTH,
Igor
Thomas,
In my experience, this should not be a difficult removal. You might have nicked the splined shaft somehow. Try reseating the sterring wheel with a block of wood and a hammer. Then, check the splines (there should be about a 1/2 inch showing and file down any rough spots. Try some WD40 and it should slide right off.
Ed
Igor wrote:
[quote]IIRC, you need to unlock the ignition.
After you removed nut and washer, did you turn the key to the first ‘click’ (to unlock the ignition lock). After this the wheel should pop right off without the need for the puller.
HTH,
Igor[/quote]
I made this same mistake…a few times.
Carter
that’s probably the real reason that NASA makes us remove the ignition lock … :laugh:
Carter wrote:
[quote]Igor wrote:
[quote]IIRC, you need to unlock the ignition.
After you removed nut and washer, did you turn the key to the first ‘click’ (to unlock the ignition lock). After this the wheel should pop right off without the need for the puller.
HTH,
Igor[/quote]
I made this same mistake…a few times.
Carter[/quote]
Ummm… hahaha
It said nothing of turning the key to the first position in my service manual…
:kicks a rock:
thanks folks, thinks I brokes it?
Thomas
Post edited by: nukblazi, at: 2006/05/21 23:23
Nope…unless you are saving the wheel and really bent it.
To kill the ignition lock simply drive the roll pin out of the top of the lock that pivots to lock the wheel…remove it and you are done.
30SpecE30 wrote:
[quote]Nope…unless you are saving the wheel and really bent it.
To kill the ignition lock simply drive the roll pin out of the top of the lock that pivots to lock the wheel…remove it and you are done.[/quote]
The airbag cars have different steering wheels from the non airbag cars…not just to hold the module, but the depth of the splined area as well.
Tom,
look at the wheel lock mechanism and you will see what Ric is talking about. it is easy to disable.
Thank you.
I am going to go back to work tonight. She goes up on jack stands tonight to begin the suspension teardown 
Make sure you take precautions and do not rip your face off by releasing those front springs…Use a spring compressor!!!
I thought I was to compress the spring with my teeth and remove the retaining nut???
Well, that’d remove the nut I guess… faceless.
I am going to take them to a shop to have them done once removed.
Good call Thomas. If you are all nervous about it, let someone else take it on. It can be really dangerous. As Sean mentioned below, the auto zone rental is great, but I ended up renting 2 sets of spring comp when I did my daughter’s Nissan Pathfinder a few months ago. Truck springs are a totally different deal than the tuner cars with shortened springs Mike and I are used to doing. We had an impact wrench and 3 compressors on one of the springs and Mike’s friends were ducking for cover!
Ed
Poor mans spring compressor is a ratcheting tie down strap. (and if you hurt yourself doing it DON’T blame me!)
Hook to one side of the spring, around the base of the strut then back up to the other side. I found it worked great…but BE CAREFUL!!!
Once you get the stock ones off you never need another spring compressor again!!!
I also use tie downs to wrestle control arms into rubber control arm bushings.
Most important is to NEVER put anything in front of the spring you are not willing to lose.
Re- removing front spring
what about buzzing the nut off with the strut still in the car then jack it up and take everything apart…
AL
I have heard that is a reasonably ssafe method for a Mustang. I suppose it would work on the E30 just as well…Have you actually done it that way Al???
Do I need to ask that?
&%&$( @#% ^%&#$^%#( ^%^# STEERING WHEEL LOCK.
Used needle nose vice grips to get the pin over. Pulling the peg out is a whole other story. Needless to say, I failed. Later today, I hacksaw the top off :lol:
Edit… I lost one of the sport coupe springs in an improvised spring compressor device (ISCD). It was air wrench driven and held by a vice. Very old. There is a lot of energy stored in those springs. I don’t have a proper device, so paying 20 bucks for someone else to risk their face is worth it.
Post edited by: nukblazi, at: 2006/05/23 06:26
FARTBREF wrote:
[quote]Re- removing front spring
what about buzzing the nut off with the strut still in the car then jack it up and take everything apart…
AL[/quote]
Thats how we’ve done it on the E30 (works on every vehicle I’ve ever owned). There is actually enough space you can remove the upper strut bearing and get the strut insert out though that hole, leaving the strut attached to the control arm, brakes, & tie rod. Take off old spring, insert new spring, insert new strut insert, tighten, put cabper plate/bushing back in. Takes <30min/side for the fronts.
The trick for the rears is to disconnect the shocks and get the suspension to full droop (the control arm will hit the subframe.) Then plazma cut MOST of the way through the springs (again, do at your own risk). They will sag, hit them w/ a hammer to break the slag, and they just fall out in 2 pcs. The new rears springs are short enough to drop right in. Of course, you have to take the rear subframe out when you want to do the bushings, but it you aren’t going that far yet then this is the easy way. Again, <30min/side.
SMD
if you have the pin pushed over far enough (doesn’t have to be completely out), then you should just be able to get something to hook near the top rear of the lock piece and it will tip forward. Grab it with pliers and you’re done. I don’t recall if the ignition key should be in or out at this point, but I do know that it should be quite easy to get it out.
cheers,
bruce
nukblazi wrote:
[quote]&%&$( @#% ^%&#$^%#( ^%^# STEERING WHEEL LOCK.
Used needle nose vice grips to get the pin over. Pulling the peg out is a whole other story. Needless to say, I failed. Later today, I hacksaw the top off :lol:
Edit… I lost one of the sport coupe springs in an improvised spring compressor device (ISCD). It was air wrench driven and held by a vice. Very old. There is a lot of energy stored in those springs. I don’t have a proper device, so paying 20 bucks for someone else to risk their face is worth it.<br><br>Post edited by: nukblazi, at: 2006/05/23 06:26[/quote]
On my car, '91 w/ABS, there is a cast piece encasing the lock itself. A dentists pick would barely fit in there. I bent the spring below the locker outward, pressed down on the lock with needle nose pliers, and grabbed the lower spring tip with vice grips. Can’t get the lock low enough to clear the cast piece.
:unsure: Spent more than and hour on it last night to no avail. :silly:
what time did you finnally leave ? lol, sounds like a nightmare, i may be getting mine back today we coudl always pop the steering wheel off of it and have a look and see if its different. or easier to get off. i never had an air bag though and mines an 87 so im sure it will be no help at all.