Non-OEM fuel pump

#1

Based on someone’s recommendation, I bought a Summit Racing fuel pump to replace the in tank transfer pump on my 87. I’ve got the old pump out and I’m not really sure how to modify the Summit pump to attach to the OEM bracket, and reconnect all the wiring safely. Can anyone offer me some words of wisdom, or should I forget about it and buy an OEM pump?

The more I look at it, I think the Summit mod is applicable to 88 and older models. The 87 transfer pump would take too much modification to make it work. Will an 88 pump work in place of my 87, allowing me to remove the second pump in this system?

#2

26 Views and not a single opinion? Come on guys, help me out.:frowning:

John

#3

John - I thought about doing the same thing (both of are cars are '87) but ending up just replacing both pumps. We have not any any problems since.

The '88 on pump might work, but why mess with a pretty good set-up from the factory.

Ed

#4

I just did both pumps, filter, tank, and damper on my '87. Thought about fiddling with something else, but stock replacements seem to be working so far.

#5

I guess I might be going that way. They are so expensive vs all the aftermarket high flow pumps. I was hoping for a less expensive solution, that actually performed better than stock.

#6

FWIW, I’ve been toying around with the Welbro pump I got from Summit and the original pump bracket. I’ve got the depth right for the pickup, and the hose clamp holds it tighter than the original bracket. I’ve got to figure out how to adapt the 1/4" discharge from the pump to the 1/2" line on the bracket (estimated sizes).

Looks a little funky, but I’ll try it out and see how it works.

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John

#7

I was testing stuff tonight and noticed the fuel pump only runs when you are cranking the car. I thought it was supposed to come on when the ignition was on?

Anyone want to clarify that for me?

#8

I’ve got the answer now. It runs when cranked, not with the ignition.

I feel like I’m the only one here!:stuck_out_tongue:

John

#9

John, Your not the only one here, you seem to be blazing a trail that others might follow. It gets kind lonely being the first one to try something new.

I am interested in your progress, but dont have anything helpful to add at the moment.

Keep up the good work

#10

Ok Peak Racer, here’s an update.

The Summit pump comes with a harness you can use to tie back onto the factory wiring. You will need to save the clip nut to ground the new pump. Ground it where the factory pump was grounded, but you’ll have to bend the grounding tab slightly to prevent the screw from hitting the new pump. The 12V lead can be connected with a butt splice. I used Ancor marine grade connectors that are certified to be oil and gas resistant.

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Pay close attention to the position of the pump and filter. They can interfere with the sending unit when you put it all together. A 3/8" fuel hose just barely squeezes over the discharge line on the bracket. It fits loosely over the new pump discharge. You’ll want to clamp both ends.

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My wife wanted to know why I installed a maxi-pad on the bottom of the pump. That is the filter Summit supplies.

John

#11

Car fired right up ok, and I didn’t blow up. I will add that I replaced all the relays at the same time. I may put the old one’s in to see if that was the problem all along. Now my idle surges up and down when cold. I’ll do a search to see what that is.

I still haven’t bypassed the external pump to see if the Summit pump supplies enough pressure/flow for driving conditions. I’m not sure I’ll even be able to adequately test “driving conditions” until Road Atlanta in August. But if there is any place to test it, thats as good as any.

John

#12

drumbeater wrote:

[quote]Car fired right up ok, and I didn’t blow up. I will add that I replaced all the relays at the same time. I may put the old one’s in to see if that was the problem all along. Now my idle surges up and down when cold. I’ll do a search to see what that is.

I still haven’t bypassed the external pump to see if the Summit pump supplies enough pressure/flow for driving conditions. I’m not sure I’ll even be able to adequately test “driving conditions” until Road Atlanta in August. But if there is any place to test it, thats as good as any.

John[/quote]

My idle started surging up and down ~800-2k rpms last month. Replaced Idle control valve and then idle control switch without affect. ECU is probably sending screwed up signals. Finally just fabricated a little plug to close off the idle control valve and said heck with it.

#13

John,

very good garage engineering work there. Thanks for the write up. Please keep us up to date when you run the other tests.

#14

Some modifications made during installation.

  1. Take the upper hose clamp off. It will not fit into the tank, and one clamp will hold it fine anyway.

  2. Rotate the lower clamp 90deg from what my picture shows, it doesnt’t fit through the opening that way.

  3. Make double sure of mounting depth. An 1/8" too deep and you’ll be taking it all apart and starting over.

  4. Get good ventilation going through the car. I had quite a buzz after working over that open tank for 10 minutes or so.:stuck_out_tongue:

When I tried the old main relay, the car would not start. But I still think it was a combination of bad relays and a bad fuel pump.

ICV ohm reading tested out ok, and I couldn’t find any vacuum leaks. I’m still working on the idle problem.