New spring kit installation thread


Here’s a first stab re. guidance on how to replace the springs.

Take some careful measurements re. ride height. Do this at each corner, picking some logical location and measuring to ground. New springs will allow height to be adjusted a little bit, for good or ill, and you’ll want to adjust them to the same height that they were.

Rear. Get a pair of spring compressors from Harbor Freight. That will squeeze down the rear spring a bit and it will pop out. Put in your new spring and the plastic piece that holds it in place.

Front. Drop your front struts out of the strut tower. This will mean unfastening them from your control arms and sway bars. Cut off old spring perch (optional, but I’d do it). Thread new collar (gold) on to new threaded sleeve (red). Place sleeve over top of strut housing. Put spring in, put new top hat on, insert strut back into your camber plate.

Note that when you reconnect your control arm to your hub, you have to support the balljoint from below. Put a jack under the balljoint and lift the control arm. Otherwise when you turn that balljoint’s nut, the balljoint just turns, taunting you.

Be advised that I’m pulling all of this out of my butt. I’ve not actually installed this specific kit before. Hopefully someone who’s actually installed this kit can chime in and help this thread.

Pic of set up

Spring compressor

Pickle fork to separate control arm balljoint

Ball joint tool if you decide to separate tie rod end from hub. Don’t use this on control arm balljoint, it’s not strong enough.


If you want to save a few bucks and don’t like buying tool, some busted knuckles later and the rear springs will drop out. I was always able to get the rear springs out with no real problems.

Another option is, Advance Auto rents these tools out.

  • Assumes you are converting from the SE30 old spec to the new spec *


I just wanted to note that if you plan to keep your car legal for SCCA ITS they have a minimum height rule.

Minimum ride height is five (5) inches, to be measured
without driver at the lowest point of the rocker panel, but
not to include welded seams or fasteners.


Shawn’s installation video: Link



FYI, YouTube videos expand inline with the new forum software. Just paste the link!


Sporty. I like it.


The biggest thing you need to add is that the gland nut has to come off to allow the sleeve to slide under.

Rear, just unhook the shock and stand on the spindle, the “old spring” will fall out.

It is strong enough, you just need to use it in conjunction with a ball peen hammer or 5 lbs sledge hammer. Load the balljoint up, then tap “gently” the side of the lower control arm an it should up out. If not, torque it down another 1/4 turn, then repeat.


For those of us that are lazy, you can just remove the swaybar end link nut, remove and hang the caliper, and then the top nut on the strut. Then push down to bring the shock outside of the wheel well. It’s a little hard on ball joints for the moment, but I know I’d do more damage removing them with my skills. Please ignore the ugly fender, it still requires some hammer love…

Nick Thiemann
FNTECH Racing #3


Cool, was wondering if removing just the top nut would free the shock from the camber plate.


@Gman you will find the minimum height for ITS to be too low to run any E30.


In regards to measuring ride height. I’ve found the best/most repeatable way to do it is to measure off of the straightest piece of your rocker panel seam. The idea is to find the straightest piece as far forward as you can to get the front ride height, and the straightest piece as far rearward to get the rear ride height.


Anybody heard when the kit will be sent out???


Best info I have is 3-4wks ago I heard “end of Feb”. SE has an event on 10Mar so we’re all watching closely.


I sold my H&R springs already. Thanks to the shipping embargo to early purchasers my E30 is now standing on cut VW Passat Wagon springs.


Here’s Shawn’s article in SpeedNews. NASA Speed News - Volume 7, Issue 2, March