Ok, so in my opinion the negative camber resulting from lowering isn’t something to be corrected out. After lowering it ends up about where you want it if you’re building a track car. The reason I like the eccentrics is no welding it (with the potential to weld it wrong), no issues with it being impossible to tighten (the outer RTAB eccentric bolts are particularly difficult), and no issues with them moving. I’ve set them, and they stay set. And they corrected the toe issues I’ve had. Plus they can be transferred to a replacement subframe easily enough.
If you’re looking to correct the camber for a lowered car that you intend to run on the street, then it might not be enough adjustment. But I think the eccentric design isn’t a very good one. The serrated adjusters and all the other ‘enhancements’ are compensating for an inherently flawed design. Regretfully, the other options (like the DTM solution) are difficult to implement. Not impossible, but nobody makes a kit at a reasonable price. I’ve considered a DIY version but it requires too much engineering to be worthwhile.