New Rear Suspension Adjusters


Anybody try these? Adjustable Rear Trailing Arm Bushing Kit – Condor Speed Shop

I have the IE serrated plates welded in my car, but the PO welded them in crooked and without enough adjustment in them. I was thinking of getting a new set and having them welded in professionally, but if they are such trouble, I thought I’d look at other options. Are the serrated plates still the top choice?

Thanks for the expertise.


I have them on a street car, they are great for that. Im not sure they will allow you the amount of camber you want out of the rear on a spec car though.


the serrated ones are the best, and if you notch the sub frame holes more forward you can get just a little more adjustment.


Thanks for the info, I’ll get another set and weld them on.

It looks the PO welded the toe adjusters too far back, so I only have toe out in the rear right now. Also the driver side outer adjuster has stripped the threaded plate twice now (I even threw a nord-lock in there after the first time), so something must be crooked. I thought I was buying a half built car but everything is wrong on it. At this point I’m no longer even surprised lol.


I’ve got a set of the Powerflex eccentrics. A pain to assemble but I’ve had no issues with alignment once I put them in. I highly recommend eccentric bushings over welded in adjusters.


@Herdrock What makes you prefer the eccentrics? It advertises +/- 1 degree of adjustment, is that enough to compensate for a lowered car? Although I know low ride height is not the answer in E30s, I don’t have experience with how much a camber correction is needed at optimal ride height.


Ok, so in my opinion the negative camber resulting from lowering isn’t something to be corrected out. After lowering it ends up about where you want it if you’re building a track car. The reason I like the eccentrics is no welding it (with the potential to weld it wrong), no issues with it being impossible to tighten (the outer RTAB eccentric bolts are particularly difficult), and no issues with them moving. I’ve set them, and they stay set. And they corrected the toe issues I’ve had. Plus they can be transferred to a replacement subframe easily enough.

If you’re looking to correct the camber for a lowered car that you intend to run on the street, then it might not be enough adjustment. But I think the eccentric design isn’t a very good one. The serrated adjusters and all the other ‘enhancements’ are compensating for an inherently flawed design. Regretfully, the other options (like the DTM solution) are difficult to implement. Not impossible, but nobody makes a kit at a reasonable price. I’ve considered a DIY version but it requires too much engineering to be worthwhile.


Ah I see yes, with a track/race car you can use most or all of the camber that you gain with lowering, whatever it may be. I sometimes forget about the street cars that are slammed (although tbh those usually have ridiculous amounts of negative camber as well).


I just went on a trip through the archives…I see the eccentric bushings (not from Condor) were all the rage back in the day before all the different weld ons became available. Lots of interesting discussions. And this is all from 20 years after the last E30 rolled off the line.