New motor build

#21

Can I pull the engine and trans at the same time out the top or do I have to drop the trans out the bottom and pull the motor out the top. Mr John Deere will do the lifting so that’s not an issue.

#22

It’s easier to R/R engine and tranny as a unit. When removing this means you don’t have to work hard getting the bolts out that hold them together, and when going back in, going in as a unit means you don’t have to fight getting crank mated all the way into the tranny.

Re. sump and baffling. Far be it for me to criticize anyone obsessing over oil.

#23

[quote=“Ranger” post=61834]It’s easier to R/R engine and tranny as a unit. When removing this means you don’t have to work hard getting the bolts out that hold them together, and when going back in, going in as a unit means you don’t have to fight getting crank mated all the way into the tranny.

Re. sump and baffling. Far be it for me to criticize anyone obsessing over oil.[/quote]

Speaking of oil obsessing. I thought you believed the motor oil bible and the author’s insistance on using only fully synthetic oil. Why use the Pennsylvania crude? Did you come to the conclusion that zinc and phosphorous were the only that mattered. Why not start with a full synthetic and then use some zddp additive?

#24

[quote=“turbo329is” post=61835][quote=“Ranger” post=61834]It’s easier to R/R engine and tranny as a unit. When removing this means you don’t have to work hard getting the bolts out that hold them together, and when going back in, going in as a unit means you don’t have to fight getting crank mated all the way into the tranny.

Re. sump and baffling. Far be it for me to criticize anyone obsessing over oil.[/quote]

Speaking of oil obsessing. I thought you believed the motor oil bible and the author’s insistance on using only fully synthetic oil. Why use the Pennsylvania crude? Did you come to the conclusion that zinc and phosphorous were the only that mattered. Why not start with a full synthetic and then use some zddp additive?[/quote]
Hmm. Let me rerun my memory tapes a bit.

I had several conversations with the oil bible guy. He knows his stuff and he’s done a lot of good work. But he doesn’t address ZDDP because he had trouble getting good info on it so just choose to neglect that variable. Not such a huge deal for modern 4 valve engines, but a significant issue to those of use with 2 (big) valves and the strong springs required to move them in a hurry. I went and got him some ZDDP info, but he wasn’t interested in it because it wasn’t “published data”.

You could use a full synthetic and ZDDP additive if you were careful to add the right amount. Too much will leach carbon from the cam, and too little will provide inadequate protection. Note that the chemistry in the additive package works together. If there’s a fair amount of calcium used as a detergent than more ZDDP has to be added to get the same wear resistance because calcium and ZDDP are antagonistic. My point is that calculating how much additive is needed is not Infantry simple.

Full synthetics have some charms over high quality conventional oils, but some of those charms don’t apply to our usage patterns. What a full synthetic will do for us tho is give better high temp stability. So if a person’s oil is getting really hot, a full synthetic is worth thinking about.

IMO the best value is a quality conventional high visc oil with >1300ppm of ZDDP like Brad Penn or Valvoline VR1. Using either of those oils would be both cheaper and easier than getting a full synthetic and doping it with ZDDP additive. There’s a helova thread in the Pelican’s Porsche forums by a guy name Navarro. Reading that thread would be an excellent complement to reading the oil bible guy’s stuff. Also check out Navarro’s work at LNEngineering’s web site.

#25

I had to make a sacrifice for the new motor to live. My 2008 Husqvarna TE510 just got sold for practically nothing to pay for se30 parts. I will miss looking at in the garage marveling in it’s awesomeness. I will also miss telling people my Italian super dirtbike would beat they’re street bike to 100 if only I could keep the front end down. I will not miss riding it. Other sports definately beckoned. I would describe riding it like sumo wrestling a grizzly bear while repeatedly being whacked in the ass with a 4x4 vertically.

So I just ordered 4.5 pounds of gaskets and seals from bimmerparts because nothing can leak when its done. My whole car is covered in used motor oil/mud sludge which is going to change hopefully before new years. I’m definitely not understanding why I’m paying 50$ shipping for it. They do realize you can put two gaskets in the same box right.

#26

Good to see your priorities are in proper order.

Has anyone outside of WI or MI ever heard of Husqvarna (I grew up in MI)?!

#27

I have heard of them. They make mowers. Just got my Dad one from Sears. Ducati makes proper bikes.

#28

I should clarify: know of them making other than lawn tools and chainsaws!

#29

[quote=“turbo329is” post=61965]I had to make a sacrifice for the new motor to live. My 2008 Husqvarna TE510 just got sold for practically nothing to pay for se30 parts. I will miss looking at in the garage marveling in it’s awesomeness. I will also miss telling people my Italian super dirtbike would beat they’re street bike to 100 if only I could keep the front end down. I will not miss riding it. Other sports definately beckoned. I would describe riding it like sumo wrestling a grizzly bear while repeatedly being whacked in the ass with a 4x4 vertically.

So I just ordered 4.5 pounds of gaskets and seals from bimmerparts because nothing can leak when its done. My whole car is covered in used motor oil/mud sludge which is going to change hopefully before new years. I’m definitely not understanding why I’m paying 50$ shipping for it. They do realize you can put two gaskets in the same box right.[/quote]
Dude, ask around. Because of all my engine builds during that dark time I bought a number of “gasket kits”. I generally did not have to use all the gaskets in any one kit so I ended up with a pile of gaskets larger than I can possibly use. I’d a sent some to you for beer money.

#30

Husqvarna motorcycles was owned by the same company as Ducati at the time it was built right before BMW Motorad bought the company. The bike has at least half a dozen parts with Ducati stamped on them.

I also have to many left over pieces from gasket kits to buy another kit. I’m ordering just the pieces I need.

#31

What indicates a head “refresh” is needed? Cam is perfect, lifters are perfect and the I just relapped the valve seats before the last track day. I ordered new valve seals but not guides because it said I need to measure them. Now I’m contemplating whether I should bother checking the guides. How exactly do I check them anyway, measure radial play at the top of the stem?

#32

If a compression test indicates the cylinders are sealing pretty well, I’d leave it alone.

If a head is already off, do an inverted drip test. Turn the head upside down and pour some gas into each chamber to see how well it seals. A perfect head will have no drips in 60sec. 3 drip in 60sec is, at least as I understand it, is a head that got a recent valve job but the machinest was no artist. More than 3drips a minute, which isn’t a helova lot of leakage when you think about it, and at some point you should consider a valve job.

#33

The leak-down test indicated something was definitely wrong and that why I had the head off in the first place. That’s when I realized I had no business at the track with my motor due to major gouging in the cylinder walls. It wasn’t a big surprise since if you dip a shop towel in my used motor oil you can pick it up with a magnet. The head obviously had some work done previously because 2 of the valves were not like the others and had large dimples in the centers. I replaced them with used OE valves when I relapped them. I talked to my brother after the last post and he said that we will only replace them if the radial play is excessive and that it can only be properly done at a machine shop.
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#34

[quote=“FishMan” post=61433]Instead of the IJ scraper, I use a windage tray from the E36 M50 series motor.


By [URL=http://profile.imageshack.us/user/richardbratton]richardbratton[/URL] at 2011-12-02[/quote]

I’m thinking of doing this as well with a spare S52 windage tray currently collecting dust in my basement. I’d pair the tray with FishMan’s trap door modification and a TC-style baffle.

Unless…

Are there appreciable benefits to a crank scraper over a windage tray? I’d rather not spend money on a scraper if the tray I already have will work just as well.

#35

Richard is using Metric Mechanic’s solution. They say that their solution does a better job at creating a “still oil region” at the pump pickup than the IJ scraper does, but IMO that’s just conjecture. IMO the greatest charm of the M50 scraper is that after it’s been initially installed, any R/R can easily be done while the engine is in the car. Whereas the IJ scraper is a pita to R/R because you have to install it with goobage, fasten it in place and then give it an overnight before you remove all the fasteners. Otherwise it’s impossible to install from underneath because it just drops in your face.

So I think both solutions work equally well.

Baffle vs. scraper. It’s clear that you understand the difference but a couple yrs ago none of us did. I think you’re on the right track with the TCMotorsports baffle and the little door that Richard put in. I did the same thing last weekend. We both got the idea from Metric Mechanic.

Don’t forget the 1/2NPT bung for getting oil temp.

#36

[quote=“Ranger” post=62850]

Don’t forget the 1/2NPT bung for getting oil temp.[/quote]

Mine is only 1/8-27 npt.

Also I’m pretty much decided the new blood will be Redline 40WT racing oil but maybe 50WT depending on the oil temps I see.

#37

[quote=“turbo329is” post=62851][quote=“Ranger” post=62850]

Don’t forget the 1/2NPT bung for getting oil temp.[/quote]

Mine is only 1/8-27 npt.

Also I’m pretty much decided the new blood will be Redline 40WT racing oil but maybe 50WT depending on the oil temps I see.[/quote]
In my experience the temp sensor I want is often not in the size I want. They come in 1/2, 3/8, 1/4 and 1/8NPT. If you put in a 1/2NPT bung you can accomodate any of those sensors sizes when your gauge scheme changes. If you put in a 1/8NPT bung, you are a 1 trick pony.

#38

Ranger you bring up an excellent point, serviceability. I’ve taken an M20 pan off while the engine was still in the car. I hope to never repeat that PITA, but if it happens I really don’t want to add yet another layer of complexity with a crank scraper.

I’m about to start putting my own engine back together. The one thing I don’t want to see is a leak. Do those thin paper gaskets for the front and rear cover do a decent job of sealing or would I be better off using something like an anaerobic sealer? Or maybe a combination of the two?

(I apologize if I’m highjacking the thread.)

#39

I just finished rebuilding a S14 and used anaerobic everywhere. I have lots of paper gaskets left over from the gasket kits. I did a bunch of research and the S14 likes to leak a lot an those that used anaerobic instead of gaskets had no leaks. When time to rebuild the M20 again that is the way I am going.

#40

Thanks Michael. Any tips for the crank and intermediate shaft seals? I’ve heard of placing them at a different offset so as to not ride in the groove created by the old seal. Is there anything more that can be done?