Need Rollcage Advice

#1

I need some advice on an existing rollcage. I designed this roll cage concept and then contracted a racer to build it. He was much smaller than I. I am 6’ 1". The main hoop of the cage, behind the driver, is not as close to the car body as I would like it to be. This causes me two problems.

First, my helmet rests against the upper left roll bar padding, even with the seat at the lowest position.

Second, there is not enough room for me to install a dead pedal for my left foot without hitting the clutch pedal at the same time. I could just rest the left side of my foot on it. To be honest, I am not sure there would be enough room if cage near the footwell was as far left as it could be. This is less of a concern.

So here is my question: I am rebuilding the entire car. Should I reinforce the cage I have, or remove it and start over.

I know this seems extreme, but I want it to be right. I will make minor changes to the cage if I decide to keep it.

I need your thoughts.

Thanks,
Roddy [file name=Spec_E30_4.jpg size=77862]http://spece30.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/files/Spec_E30_4.jpg[/file]

#2

Another photo.

Thanks,
Roddy

#3

How about you cut the tubes off where they mount to the body, shift the whole cage up and to the left and rebuild the mounting boxes/plates.

#4

^ thats pretty much the only option you have.

I’m 6’4 and my cage is so tight, I actually ball pinned the b pillar a hair to make it work. Its that tight.

#5

ActionJunky wrote:

I have the same issue with my cage. My solution was to put a hose clamp on the bar with the screw part towards the clutch pedal. It isn’t perfect, but it gives me a little something to rest my foot on.

With the main hoop that far from the roof and b pillar, you might be looking at a complete re-do. If you go that route, you may want to redesign the door bars. Ideally, they would extend further into the gutted door cavity to give you more elbow room. The other advantage of that is the angle from the door bar to the front downtube is greater, meaning that any hit to the door bar puts that weld in compression rather than shear. The current design relies almost totally on the strength of the weld to keep that bar from impaling your leg.

Also, the rear braces look like they connect with the main hoop several inches in from the junction with the top-side bar. Those are stronger if they all meet at one place.

Or you could sell the car to a short guy and start over. :laugh:

#6

You can’t change the main hoop without starting over. If you really can’t live with it, then sell it off and start over. I am sure you can find someone that has the dimensions to fit your car. This is why you have to remove sunroof completely and try to find a cage builder that has done several E30’s.