Need roll cage installed

#1

I need roll cage installed preferably in middle tn area. i am going to check with John Saccardi, tomorrow. He is always slammed, so just looking for alternatives.
Also may be interested in other spec e-30 racing items, if price is good.
email is joedapro@bellsouth.net

#2

I’m in Nashville and John Siccardi @ Treehouse is the only guy I know that is close. I think there are some stock car guys around, but I don’t know details.

I would never turn you away from John because his cages look great, but if you need an alternative I would look at Atlanta. That’s where I took mine. We’ve got lots of options within 5 hours drive, but not much here at home (just like race tracks!).

#3

Kirk racing just north of Birmingham might be a possibility. He does very good work.

#4

Robinson has done two cages for me. They are just north of Atlanta in Cumming. Their work is fantastic - structurally and aesthetically.

Even if you aren’t thinking of using them, go to www.robinsonracing.net to check out the tube-frame chassis they built.

Steve D.

#5

Robinson did mine as well. I would recommend them to anyone, just didn’t want to NOT recommend Treehouse!

Robinson is definitely worth the tow to Atlanta.

#6

thanx guys. i appreciate advice. atlanta is close, as car is in alcoa tn, at akards factory. i like john, but he is very hard to get attention from. he hasnt even returned my calls or voice mails. i am prepping car for 2010 spec e-30 competition. some mods i can do myself, but some will require more properly trained and experienced skills. is there any advantage in using spec gas tank as opposed to fuel cell? is there any advantage to removing power steering? i wouldnt think so.
my car is an 87 325is. my weight is 2815 lb. if minimum is 2750 lb, what are best things to remove? and should i install splitter, spoiler, or air dam? any noticable gains between the three?
i have read regulations and ccr manual. there are many rules open to interpretation.
any school of hard knocks, been there, done that, advice will be sincerely appreciated, and not forgotten on tracks in 2010. joe

#7

shifter11 wrote:

[quote]Robinson did mine as well. I would recommend them to anyone, just didn’t want to NOT recommend Treehouse!

Robinson is definitely worth the tow to Atlanta.[/quote] understand you not wanting to upset john, but appreciate honesty. where you at in nashville? i am off haywood lane. would like to meet up with you for lunch at 100 oaks applebees, one day. my treat. i gained rep on this site, in past, as mike akards smack talking crew chief, in d-mod bmwcca division. and that i truly regret. after winning 2nd national title, i let my ego get the best of me. and to anyone i offended, i truly apologize.
i plan on being the consumate respectful competitor. i have left my attitude at the door. look forward to meeting many of you, and hopefully earning your trust, respect and friendship, in the coming years. joe harrison

#8

The stock gas tank is in an excellent location (low and forward of the rear wheels. A fuel cell would have to be mounted aft of the rear wheels, which will increase the polar moment. So I’d say the advantage lies with the OE tank.

Power steering is a personal preference. I think the car feels better with it removed and that you have a better steering feel.

#9

joedapro wrote:

Joe -

It’s kind of tough to tell on weight until you are done with the build. I didn’t weigh my car before the beginning of the build, so I don’t know how to compare. I assume your 2815 is pre-build weight?

My car was what I would consider a normal strip - all interior materials as stated in the rules are gone. Door glass is gone and doors are gutted w/nascar cage bars. The melt mat is still in my trunk (50 lbs I’ve heard) and I run a spare tire. Without a cool suit I run ballast on the floor, too.

I don’t know of anyone who has NOT had to add ballast at the end of the day (whether it comes in the form of spare tire, metal ballast, extra gas, sometimes all 3). Bear in mind that you can use a strategically placed cool suit and fire bottle to get some weight where you need it once you finish the build and start looking at corner weights.

I think a clean stock tank with new pumps and piping is the way to go. If your tank is in bad shape, the Grassroots guys did an article on their E30 tank replacement. IIRC, it was only like $150 for the tank. I couldn’t find an approved fuel cell for anything close to that cost - let alone the pumps, fabrication cost & stuff.

I removed power steering for 3 reasons: better feel (maybe), one less thing to leak, and I want to look like Jones one day. I only miss power when trying to pull a U turn in the paddock. Hint: If you disable the power steering, turn the wheel stop-to-stop many, many times to get rid of the fluid so it doesn’t lock up when you plug the lines.

[quote] and should i install splitter, spoiler, or air dam? any noticable gains between the three?
i have read regulations and ccr manual. there are many rules open to interpretation.
any school of hard knocks, been there, done that, advice will be sincerely appreciated, and not forgotten on tracks in 2010. joe[/quote]

I haven’t done side-by-side testing so I can’t tell you about the splitter. The one I have on my car is pretty low and pretty deep. I like it because it looks cool. I don’t know that planting the nose better in high speed sweepers is really that helpful since that would make the back end looser. Everyone says I am one “off” away from not having the splitter. But I like it because it looks cool. Trunk lip? I like it because it looks cool.

I appreciate your newfound approach. No hard feelings. Welcome to SE30!

Steve D.

#10

If you encourage downforce in front you’ll just get light in the rear and go off the high speed sweeper tail first. There’s no legal way to increase rear downforce, and since it’s a high speed sweeper, you’re not creating much rear downforce due to acceleration. With the typical -3.X F and -2.X R camber settings you are likely to feel a greater rear slip angle in the high speed sweeper then front.

The easy way to get rid of power steering fluid is to forget to connect the hose when swapping your motor at the track. Then you can conveniently leave the fluid about the racing surface, your undercarriage, and especially your left rear brakes.

This technique also greatly increases the longevity of your left rear pads and rotor, altho braking distances will increase somewhat alarmingly.

#11

Ranger wrote:

I knew my car was undriveable! :laugh:

Actually, encouraging downforce in the front allows you to soften the rear bar to counter the tail-happiness in high speed stuff. This softer rear bar minimizes wheelspin in the slow corners, which eliminates a lot of inside-edge-too-hot slipperiness with the R888. Of course, you have to trail the brakes more to get the car to rotate, but that sliding tends to grease up the tires less than the wheelspin. :blink: :S :huh:

Or something like that. Who knows. Gas it up, pull the belts tight, and get up on that wheel. That’s my driving method. :woohoo:

Steve D.

PS - Ranger - Your power steering bleeding instructions were hilarious. Can’t wait to see how that is noted in your next brake torque spreadsheet. :slight_smile:

#12

Steve D wrote:

If you like that method, then you should try brake bleeding by driving around with a leaking caliper. Keep on filling up until the leaking fluid changes the color. Voila, new fluid in the system with no air bubbles.

#13

Steve D wrote:

[quote]Ranger wrote:

I knew my car was undriveable! :laugh:

Actually, encouraging downforce in the front allows you to soften the rear bar to counter the tail-happiness in high speed stuff. This softer rear bar minimizes wheelspin in the slow corners, which eliminates a lot of inside-edge-too-hot slipperiness with the R888. Of course, you have to trail the brakes more to get the car to rotate, but that sliding tends to grease up the tires less than the wheelspin. :blink: :S :huh:

Or something like that. Who knows. Gas it up, pull the belts tight, and get up on that wheel. That’s my driving method. :woohoo:

Steve D.

PS - Ranger - Your power steering bleeding instructions were hilarious. Can’t wait to see how that is noted in your next brake torque spreadsheet. :)[/quote]

Re. downforce and rear sways. Different approaches for different folks. And I worked hard to learn how to trailbrake. But I decided that I sucked so badly at it that it was just slowing me down.

In other news my head showed up on the front porch tonight. Come on baby PULEEEEEEEEEESSSSSE work well.

#14

Ranger wrote:

[quote]If you encourage downforce in front you’ll just get light in the rear and go off the high speed sweeper tail first. There’s no legal way to increase rear downforce, and since it’s a high speed sweeper, you’re not creating much rear downforce due to acceleration. With the typical -3.X F and -2.X R camber settings you are likely to feel a greater rear slip angle in the high speed sweeper then front.

The easy way to get rid of power steering fluid is to forget to connect the hose when swapping your motor at the track. Then you can conveniently leave the fluid about the racing surface, your undercarriage, and especially your left rear brakes.

This technique also greatly increases the longevity of your left rear pads and rotor, altho braking distances will increase somewhat alarmingly.[/quote] semms you are talking from experience.LOL. thanx guys for all the info, tips, experiences, and most of all, forgiveness of my attitude in past. i recenly had a life changing event .
i wont go into details, but lets just say, it made me evaluate myself in a whole new light. i promise i will not make anyone regret granting me immunity.
look forward to racing with all of you, as well as developing friendships on and off the track. racing is a potentially hazardous hobby. trusting and liking fellow racers is a must, i assume.
cant wait to get out there. akards keeping me pretty busy. as he is debuting
a 2nd car at TWS, next week. driver is john brown. john is building his own spec e-30, for furure competition, but this new car is a d-mod prepared.
thanks again, joe harrison