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I’m doing the waterpump, timing belt thing this weekend and when I tried to unplug the radiator temp switch the plug crumbled in my hand. So I’m holding three loose wires…green, black w/ brown stripe, and black. Can someone tell me the correct position for these, ie. top, middle, bottom?
BTW, I have a 9/89 build car. Thanks for any and all help!
screwynewy wrote:
[quote]I’m doing the waterpump, timing belt thing this weekend and when I tried to unplug the radiator temp switch the plug crumbled in my hand. So I’m holding three loose wires…green, black w/ brown stripe, and black. Can someone tell me the correct position for these, ie. top, middle, bottom?
BTW, I have a 9/89 build car. Thanks for any and all help![/quote]
I went to go check and alas, mine is crumbly too but still connected so…
the black one is on the inside, closest to the firewall, the green/black one is in the middle ant the brown/black one is closest to the grill/headlight
nasaregistrar wrote:
[quote]screwynewy wrote:
[quote]I’m doing the waterpump, timing belt thing this weekend and when I tried to unplug the radiator temp switch the plug crumbled in my hand. So I’m holding three loose wires…green, black w/ brown stripe, and black. Can someone tell me the correct position for these, ie. top, middle, bottom?
BTW, I have a 9/89 build car. Thanks for any and all help![/quote]
I went to go check and alas, mine is crumbly too but still connected so…
the black one is on the inside, closest to the firewall, the green/black one is in the middle ant the brown/black one is closest to the grill/headlight[/quote]
Sean,
Thanks for checking the wires for me. Now I can finish the job.
- KenTurns out the temperature switch plug is in a triangle shape. If anyone has the same plug pattern please let me know how the wires attach in relation to the index on the plug.
Here is a picture of my plug.
Post edited by: screwynewy, at: 2006/05/13 21:13 
Post edited by: screwynewy, at: 2006/05/13 21:15
I have a 87 is that is currently in bunch of pieces, and I know that I made a note of this however I can’t find them now (I’ll look again and let you know).
Not sure if this will work but you can give it a try:
If you look at the sensor (one you provided in the picture) top prong is marked with “O�, left bottom as “T1� and right bottom as “T2�.
The “O� is power and green/black wire should go there. To check this (and to confirm proper wire), with the ignition on measure voltage between ground and that wire – you should get battery voltage (12V)
Next two are a bit trickier – they activate low and high speeds of aux fan. (Turn the ignition off) Disconnect K1 relay (low fan speed relay) from the fuse box (most likely relay that is further from firewall and towards pass side). Now find resistor on the aux fan itself (usually mounted towards the bottom of the aux fan – it’s the rectangle looking thing with two wires attached to it). Get an Ohm meter (even better if it has ‘continuity’ setting). Going back to the fuse box, look at the socket where K1 relay used to be – one of those prongs is connected two one of the two remaining wires. Put one test lead, from the Ohm meter, to one of the wires (pick ether one) and the second test lead to the one of the prong sockets (on the fuse box). You might have to check all of the prong sockets for that relay as I don’t know which is correct one. When you found correct prong you should get continuity. If you don’t, get the other wire and repeat. Now that you know which wire is connected to that replay, you know that it is for low aux speed. Now, connect that wire to either of the prongs on the sensor (again this will be trial and error so it doesn’t matter which, although I would start with T1 (just a hunch)). So now, put the test lead to the prong socket that gave you continuity signal, and second test lead to one of the connections on the aux fan resistor. If you get continuity signal, this wire is on the correct prong on the sensor, so simply connect the other wire to other prong. If you don’t get the continuity, place the wire on the other prong (on the sensor) and re-test, Hopefully, this is it and you have continuity.
In case that you do the test with the ignition on, you might blow a fuse, so check them:
Power (“O�) – fuse #19 (7.5A)
High speed relay fuse – #18 (30A)
Low speed relay fuse – #3 (15 A)
I hope this works.
Igor
P.S. re-reading my description it might sound complicated, but the test really is not
Igor,
Thanks for taking the time to write up that post. I will give it a try but to be safe I might wait until someone whose connector is still in tact can comfirm the wiring.
Ken - FYI, my car is '87 i, so not sure if same location. Front of car is to the left.
Ed
Why worry about the connector or the temp switch for that matter.
Just wire the high-speed fan into the cockpit (I wired mine into my foglight switch) and run it manually.
Rob
RJME wrote:
[quote]Why worry about the connector or the temp switch for that matter.
Just wire the high-speed fan into the cockpit (I wired mine into my foglight switch) and run it manually.
Rob[/quote]
You might be right that I don’t need it. I removed my a/c cooler and mount the stock auxilary fan to the radiator. I plan on using the a/c switch to manually turn it on/off.
I thought the temp switch controlled the speed of the auxillary fan? Do I need to worry about it?
screwynewy wrote:
[quote]
I thought the temp switch controlled the speed of the auxillary fan? Do I need to worry about it?[/quote]
The way I understand it is that aux fan will be turned on when radiator temp switch closes, or when you turn on AC.
Temp switch will close when coolant reaches ~ 195F (low aux fan speed) or ~ 210F (high aux fan speed). It will also turn on to low speed when you engage AC (IIRC AC button has to be pushed and one of the three sliders for the vents has to be opened).
Igor
Aux fan speed is controlled by the resistor mounted on the fan itself. One circuit goes thru the resistor, and one does not if I remember correctly
I thought about doing the same, too.
The AC button will manually turn on the fan at the low-speed setting (I think).
The temp switch will turn on the fan when the coolant hits certain temp thresholds. Stock is 90/99 dregrees celsius for low/high speed.
You may want to use the 80/88 switch instead.
I just run the fan on high whenever the engine is at operating temp but I’m not moving very fast (like around the paddock area).
It’s a very simple setup and I don’t need to rely on a temp switch that might fail on me unexpectedly.
Rob
nasaregistrar wrote:
low speed "goes" through resistor mounted on the aux fan itself
Igor
Yep, that is what I was saying, the resistor reduces the current and in turn, fan speed. The high speed circuit bypasses the resistor
Ken, if you are still interested, see below. According to Bentley, to test the low speed circuit, jump green/black to black, the high speed circuit, green/black to black/brown. I’m going to do what Rob described below, however using a slim line puller fan with an aftermarket temp probe wired directly to battery power.
ed 
Post edited by: edavidson, at: 2006/05/15 19:49
edavidson wrote:
[quote]Ken, if you are still interested, see below. According to Bentley, to test the low speed circuit, jump green/black to black, the high speed circuit, green/black to black/brown. I’m going to do what Rob described below, however using a slim line puller fan with an aftermarket temp probe wired directly to battery power.
ed <br><br>Post edited by: edavidson, at: 2006/05/15 19:49[/quote]
Ed, Thanks for the correct wiring of the temp switch. I am really pleased with how my setup turned out. I removed the a/c condenser and seperated the fan from it then mounted the fan to the front of the radiator. Then I removed the fan shroud to allow more airflow through. I feel pretty sure that I won’t have any overheating issues since I’m not using the mechanical fan/clutch. Actually I think it will run cooler without stuff blocking air flow.
-Ken