hey man, youre not alone. i am in same place as you are. i am lining up roll cage installation, and everything else after that. i have one advantage, my brother-in-law mike akard, is a wealth of race info. he is 2 time d-mod champ in bmwcca.
however i am not able to scavenge parts from him, so i am on my own there. the regulation manual, and ccr specs, are priceless. spec-e-30 has great website.
the beauty of this site is also the free advice one can get, if one asks humbly and politely. these are a great bunch of racers. very forgiving as well!. i plan on racing in 2010. this year i am going to obtain license, build car as i can afford to, and continue to crew for my sisters hubby, mike. learning althewhile.
spec e-30 has got to be the most affordable, most competitive, most fun, for dollar spent.
i thrash my e=36 around town every day. i raced limited schedule in 90s, in nascar steet mod division. fun but not fulfilling. too many rednecks there. look forward to cutting my teeth with you and other newbies, in future.
and please know, a tremendous amt of modifications for this class, can be done by you and buddies. just know when to seek more knowledgable assistance, when necessary. never be afraid of sounding stupid, when asking for advice. these guys dont care. they will help, not ridicule you. see you on the track! joe
My First E30
Fuel pump replaced - SHE RUNS !!!
Compression is only 90/100 in two cylinders, so I need to think about doing a leak down and maybe ripping the head off for a rebuild. I’m already doing the timing belt replacement…
Also the Pass side lower ball joint has about 1 inch of play in it - so I think it’s time for two new front lower control arms and ball joints… Front struts are also junk so it may just be time for the bilsteins and the Spec E30 springs & bars too…
A slippery slope I am on…
Jim
L8Apex wrote:
[quote]Fuel pump replaced - SHE RUNS !!!
Compression is only 90/100 in two cylinders, so I need to think about doing a leak down and maybe ripping the head off for a rebuild.
Jim[/quote]
If you’ve not done a leakdown before see my doc in “Resources”.
It’s hard to get consistant compression test results. I’d do it several times before I’d take the compression test results seriously. Use your imagination to find different ways to do the test. And hook a batt charger to the batt so you can get consistant starter rpms.
I’m looking to build a Spec e30 similar the way you are going too. I haven’t found a car yet though. It’ll take on three phases: Daily Driver, Track Car, then Race Car. So this thread will be pretty helpful to me and hopefully I can learn from your (and other’s) experiences. Goodluck with your build.
Project Mayhem wrote:
[quote]I’m looking to build a Spec e30 similar the way you are going too. I haven’t found a car yet though. It’ll take on three phases: Daily Driver, Track Car, then Race Car. So this thread will be pretty helpful to me and hopefully I can learn from your (and other’s) experiences. Goodluck with your build.[/quote]Your post just re-affirms that spec e-30 racing is growing fast, by allowing people like us that want to compete, but dont have deep pockets. Especially in this economy. Best of luck to you in your quest for the right car. Your plan is similar to mine, as well as many others. Read, research, ask stupid questions, and learn all you can. Go to any events possible. I have been blessed by being crew chief for natl champion d-mod car, and i admit, there is so much i still need to learn. The knowledge I have acquired is priceless, and I am still learning all i can. Hopefully we will be fender to fender someday. Look forward to that day!! joe
Thanks for the info, Ranger. I’ve done several leak downs on my air-cooled VWs, so I think I’ll be able to figure out the E30 M20 tricks - and get some repeatable numbers. I’m really hoping that the rings are good and that I need a rebuilt cylinder head at worst.
If you guys have good sources for rebuilt heads - I’m all ears. I assume you get a new cam and rockers with a rebuilt head?
Also added up all (most?) of the E30 suspension mods from BimmerWorld - looks like about $2000 - including $200 for the new lower front control arms I need - lower ball joints are SHOT. Big chunk of money but I want to do the suspension once - not twice.
Also wondering how many of you guys race on 14s vs 15s - those Race Dynamic 15 inch wheels look nice - but I think my bottle cap wheels will have to do for now…
Jim
Do you guys that have done “do it yourself” rebuilds have any recommendations for “hardcore” engine parts like Cams, rockers, rod & crank bearings etc?
Somewhat afraid of Ebay for this kind of stuff - don’t want Chinese pistons that decide they want to come apart at 6000 RPM…
Jim
OK - did a decent compression test yesterday - all plugs out, fully charged battery, throttle wide open - cranked thru 8/9 cycles
All are above 150, range is 150 to 185. Two cylinders were 150/155 - 3 squirts of oil brought them up to 180/185.
Based on this - I’m not going to pull the head just yet. I want to do a leak down on the 2 weakest cylinders and see if they are indeed leaking past the rings. If so, then a rebuild can wait until later.
Cam belt not too bad - but it’s getting replaced along with water pump, tensioner, cam o-ring & seal, t-stat and radiator hoses - I just hope it starts after I’m done…
Jim
PS got the awesome BMW radio/cass deck working after the dealer gave me the code - SWEET. Now I just need to find some old 80s cassette tapes…
L8Apex wrote:
EXCUSE ME, but I still happen to have some “OLD” 80’s cassette tapes. 
What are you getting at??
L8Apex wrote:
[quote]Do you guys that have done “do it yourself” rebuilds have any recommendations for “hardcore” engine parts like Cams, rockers, rod & crank bearings etc?
Somewhat afraid of Ebay for this kind of stuff - don’t want Chinese pistons that decide they want to come apart at 6000 RPM…
Jim[/quote]
Since it all has to be OEM or equiv, there’s not much room for hard core. New pistons are hard core. That will give you nice ring grooves to hold the rings in correctly. .020" over would be pretty hard core. That would up your compression numbers.
My bad - wrong use of “hard core” - I meant real internal engine parts like pistons and cams - not radiator hoses and hose clamps.
IE the stuff that autozone won’t have… Please tell me there are legal aftermarket parts for these engines because geniuine BMW parts is gonna be REAL expensive…
Drumbeater - I mean “old” 80s in a good way. Like U2’s first album, not old in a bad way, like a Neal Diamond tape…
Ok - fell off the Deep end today…
My credit card is still smoking…
BimmerWorld is happy…
Bilstein struts/shocks
Lower control arms and poly bushings
H&R springs
Stainless brake lines
Subframe & trailing arm bushings
Ireland sways
camber plates
So she’ll still look like a stock 325i - but underneath, she’s all spec E30 !!!
almost - anybody want to make me a smokin deal on a 3.73 LSD diff??? I would like to do this only once…
Jim
I told you guys this build would be amusing - timing belt is done - and the engine actually runs - after I remembered that fuel pump fuse I pulled goes in slot 11 , not slot 22 or 23 (the unused slots). Note to self - you will not get fuel pressure and the car will not start with Fuse 11 pulled. Hooking a motorcycle battery direct to said fuel pump will develop pressure and the car will then start… I also think I only installed those 6 pesky crank damper/pulley bolts 3 times - Once on Sat night when I was tired with the damper on backwards. Again on Sunday morning in the correct direction, and finally yet again with the pulley that I forgot in Try #2. Sad part was I didn’t even have any beer to explain this behavior.
Then I moved on to the front suspension - with my impact wrench cleanly breaking one of the lollipop bolts off down inside the unibody channel. That’s been soaking in PB blaster all week waiting for me to attack it on Saturday.
Been just a BLAST so far - and it can only get better…
Jim
I picked mine up this weekend and am starting to feel your pain. It has already started to nickel and dime me, or I should say $20 and $100 me. I’s going to be longer than I thought before I get this thing ready for the track. That’s all part of the fun though. Don’t get discouraged.
well - I just noticed water dripping from the side of my brand new pump - so I guess I get to rip that off and try to reseal it - any suggestions there?
And - the big suspension job ahead - all the parts are here now:
Shocks/struts
rear upper shock mounts
Springs
trailing arm bushings
rear subframe bushings
front control arms + poly bushings
Ireland Sways
camber plates
stainless brake lines
Diff bushing
3.73 LSD diff on it’s way from Ebay…
new OEM rotors
would like to remove the front brake dust shields but don’t want to pull the hubs and destroy the bearings - so I guess I will cut them off?
I am no smarter than the average bear but I do have air tools and a 20 ton China Freight hydro press. My main concerns are:
Where do support the car if I’m going to pull the rear subframe out?
What are the tricks to removing & installing the trailing arm, subframe, diff, and lollipop bushings? I haven’t looked but I assume these have some offset that I have to install correctly?
I have some strut compressor clamps but I’ve never done struts before so any tips to keep me from killing myself would be appreciated.
I’ve got the GRM articles to guide me and I guess I could search E30tech for answers but you guys are so much easier… I’ve got the Bentley manual - and I’ve been reading…
thanks
Jim
Mine is finally out. I positioned the Jackstands in front of the lower plate that holds the X member(2 Allen Bolts). P/S came off easy D/S I had to use a puller(seized) Cleaning and stripping all metal parts, rebuilding axles. One of the brake lines on the trailing arms was pinched, so I have to make a new one. $6.00 at Autozone plus free rental on the Pipe Bending Tool. [file name=E30_Projekt_006.jpg size=36920]http://spece30.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/files/E30_Projekt_006.jpg[/file] 
Before removal I unbolted the upper strut mounts and pushed down the trailing arms as far I can go and managed to remove the coil springs.
![http://spece30.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/files/E30_Projekt_006.jpg[/file]](http://spece30.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/files/E30_Projekt_006.jpg%5B/file%5D){kind=link}
I was going to drop the diff before dropping the subframe but you may have changed my mind. Any issues with disconnecting brake lines or e-brake cables before (or while) dropping the sub frame?
I’ve started on my front end first, so I’m still trying to get the old rubber bushings out of the lollipops. Can’t find a good size socket to press them out, so I think I’m going to cut thru metal ring, bend them in - and take them out that way.
I did manage to compress the front coils and replace the struts and springs without killing anyone. Front control arms and sway bar are next…
Jim
Updated my E30 Soap Opera:
Work complete so far:
New Front lower control arms and Powerflex bushings installed (PIA - see separate thread on this fun task)
New Front springs & strut cartridges replaced
Camber plates installed
New front disks and brake lines
Diff removed
Driveshaft removed
Rear subframe & trailing arms removed (FUN!)
E-brakes removed
Pass, e-brake cable replaced (FUN!)
Inner brake lines replaced (VERY FUN!)
Subframe mounting pockets cleaned out (VERY VERY FUN)
Subframe and trailing arms bushings removed and replaced (Actually very fun because I got to play with FIRE - I melted them out)
Powerflex diff bushing installed
Left to do
Install subframe & trailing arms
Install diff and driveshaft
Install e-brakes
Install new rear disks and calipers
Need to order
Brake Pads
Spec Exhaust
This was a Texas car since about 2000, but it looks to have spent some time in Iowa - there is just enough body corrosion to make all the chassis parts nicely rusted - brake lines were no fun at all - PB Blaster and MAPP gas torch required multiple times…
And everyone said that build a Spec E30 car was easy and cheap (relatively).
I paid a professional to do this work and I am glad I did.
Keep plugging.
Don