MUST NEED LIST: to stay running strong

#21

Some of the guys that are really fast in 5 take it as a 4th gear turn. I mean really fast, like 10mph faster then me.

It took me a while to figure out how they did it. But after studying their data and videos for hours and drinking lots of beer, I finally saw it. They brake early and finish their braking on the right side gators. The braking on the slipper gators rotate the car a little and therefore they are kind of drifting into the first third of the turn. That significantly changes the character of their turn in.

Then a largely transparent front air damn/splitter and big rear wing briefly pop out and provide several hundred lbs of downforce.

And that is how it is done.

But they lose half of that because my 3rd gear torque gets me up the hill better.

I need to do 5 a lot faster, but I’ll keep it a 3rd gear turn.

#22

yea im planning on replacing all the spark plugs and ignition wires and belts.

  • Do you guys think the spec exhaust will be too loud for the neighborhood roads? when i had my spec miata i took a beer can cut off the open end and the other end drilled 3 or 5 pin holes and filled it with muffler insulation and screwed it on the tip and it muffled the car pretty well at low revs enough for me to drive around and pass as a cheesy ricer lol but whenever i accelerated you could hear the race exhaust scream through that poor can lol .

-with the cage i was thinking of padding it.

  • the only issue i really ran into with my e30 is all the major rust in the floor of the cockpit and some in the trunk ive since rewelded new sheetmetal into the floors . but now i ran into a fuel leaking issue with my fuel lines.

-the moonroof is still a work in progress ive since took out all interior junk that wont make sense in a race car carpet/backseat/old broken speakers/window tinting/and any other fabric/rubber related luxuries. now all i have to do is take apart the sunroof hardware.

#23

RSchwyn wrote:

Yes. Buy a Supertrapp and stick it on the end of the spec exhaust. It won’t look any worse than driving on the street with a helmet.

Wear a helmet. Padding alone won’t cut it. The soft “pipe insulation” stuff won’t protect you and some of it gets nasty napalm drippy when it burns. The FIA rated hard stuff is designed to be struck by a helmet and absorb some of the impact. It will not help you with a bare head.

I’d rather not have my tax dollars go to support your drooling carcass in a nursing home. Wear a helmet. Or maybe I should say “We need bigger fields in SE30 and can’t afford to lose you to a brain injury because you had a fender bender on the way to the track.” Whichever one gets you to be safe. :laugh:

Steve D.

#24

Steve D wrote:

[quote]87isMan wrote:

If you are full gas before the apex in 6 (or 1, 3, 5 or 10a) you overslowed the car, IMO. :stuck_out_tongue:

Steve D.

PS - If you carry more speed through 6 than your competitor who downshifts to 3rd, they aren’t on your bumper at the braking zone and it doesn’t seem quite so busy. But I’m OK if you want to catch 3rd going into 6.[/quote]

Your probably right

#25

you are required to have the “hard” type padding on your cage anywhere that your helmet can strike it (and you’d be surprised how far your body will stretch in a big impact). There is now dual-density padding that complies but it is still not that soft.
bruce

#26

leggwork wrote:

Technically, you have to pad the cage anywhere any part of you can strike it (hands, arms, feet, legs).

15.6.4 Padding
All roll cage surfaces that may come in contact with the driver should be padded with high-density padding such as Ethafoam or Ensolite. It is recommended that padding meeting SFI specification 45.1 be used.

Steve D.

#27

wheres a good site to get the SFI spec padding? lol ill make sure to wear my helmet and wave at bikers that pull up next to me at the light “HEY IM WEARING A HELMET 2!!, we could be in a club!” but i think if i said that ill end up in the hospital with brain damage 2…maybe i better not wave or say anything. lol
another question i had was i wanted to put my spec miata race rims on my e30 but they offset was at +0 and it was rubbing againts the suspension…so i sold them with the spec miata and now im looking at rims with an offset of +15 or +20mm is this a good safe size?

#28

whats the best supertrapp i should use for my exhaust?

#29

RSchwyn wrote:

I’ll sell you a set of Konig Rewinds with R888’s. Both are new. The Rewind is the most common wheel in SpecE30.

#30

do you have pics?? how much? how good do they fit

#31

RSchwyn wrote:

Here’s the one I have:
SuperTrapp 449-2218 Muffler, S/C Series, 2 1/4 in. Inlet/4 in. Outlet, Steel, Black

Steve D.

#32

You can get SFI roll bar padding from Jegs, Pegasus racing, CDOC.
Ed

#33

hey guys i found a nascar style roll cage kit not welded together yet for starter price of $280+ but i think its for stock cars only* 4 point cage*… should i buy that and just customize it to fit a e30 or is that a waist of time and money?>

http://cscracing.com/ckboth.html

$235
http://www.tcracecars.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MRT_25-64TKIT&Category_Code=

all i really need to do is add 2 points to the rear of the cage right?

#34

RSchwyn wrote:

Waste of time and money. And probably dangerous. They don’t specify the wall thickness, but that’s the least of the problems with going that route.

Read the CCR. Search this forum for “cage” and read all you can. Then when you know everything about how you want the cage done and you have all the other safety equipment (seat, nets, harnesses, wheel & pedals installed), take the car to someone who has done an E30 cage to NASA rules.

Start reading here to get an idea of cage costs.
http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,40058/catid,9/limit,10/limitstart,0/

Steve D.

#35

alright thanks steve! im absorbing as much as i can =)

#36

Since he didn’t post it yet, and since I am soooo good at taking a good post and throwing it back off topic, here is the “best” way to take 6 and 7 at RA. :wink:

http://www.vimeo.com/2535265

#37

if you’re looking for a pre-bent cage (but still weld in), contact Checkpoint Racing www.cp-racing.com - I know they had some e30 cages they were trying to move (not sure of current stock though).
Just noticed that they have a current ebay auction for one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OMP-Bolt-In-Roll-Cage---BMW-83-91-(E30)_W0QQitemZ330350270081QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090806?IMSfp=TL090806191002r4146

bruce

#38

emailed back and forth with kirk racing they will send me a weld in 8 point cage for $900 + 150 shipping…what do you guys think good idea?

#39

RSchwyn wrote:

Kirk Racing does nice work. I am probably going to go that route since I can weld myself. :wink:

#40

The kirk cage is a good deal, make sure you take advantage of all the upgrades like nascar bars…

Take advice from a rookie that had a cage built cheap, then had to cut it out and start over. Do the cage right the first time. It should be the largest check you write at one time for your car.