Motor Mounts

#1

Wish I would have read this:

TurnerMotorsports wrote:

[quote]E30 325e/i HD Motor Mount kit (pair)
WARNING - If you take your E30 325 to the track for drivers schools, races and or auto crosses your motor mounts WILL break…its just a matter of time. When they break if your car is a 1984 to 1987 your alternator will cut your lower radiator hose and your day will be done. Fixed the problem with our beautifully crafted aluminum re-enforcement kit. The kit include two new heavy duty motor mounts and four aluminum cups.
Applications: 1984-1991 325e/i (E30)
Part #: E30325MMKIT
Price: $159.95 [/quote]

Wow, I learned that the hard way! :unsure:

What are you guys using that are reliable and reasonably priced? Should I do the tranny mounts too?

Thanks! Rich.

#2

I bought mine (and had them installed) by DP Motorworks (Dave Pallister). Did both the engine and tranny at the same time all of the suspension pieces were being installed.

#3

Rich - most everyone has changed it all - motor mounts, tranny mounts, diff mount, and subframe. Most use poly, a few have solid aluminum. Not sure it makes much difference. Check out the sponsors - several of them have kits.
Ed

#4

it’s usually power steering pulley that will cut into lower radiator hose on early models.

You can use couple of strategically placed zip-ties to (try to) keep hose out of pulley’s reach.

#5

Igor wrote:

[quote]it’s usually power steering pulley that will cut into lower radiator hose on early models.

You can use couple of strategically placed zip-ties to (try to) keep hose out of pulley’s reach.[/quote]

Yep. Used the ‘zip ties’ to achieve some clearance, but after about 5 laps I started overheating because the motor moved over some more and the fan hit the shroud so it could not move.

Who makes complete kits? I have only seen specific pieces from most.

#6

I’ll sell you a set of Aluminum motor mounts from VAC the same ones you have listed above(I think) for half price. I don’t think the Aluminum motor mounts are legal thats why I switched them out. The motor mounts and Trans mounts are pretty simple to do yourself. I got all mine from Carr ind. You can find them in the links section.

looking further down the post I see they very well might be legal. Can we get a ruling on this

#7

also you can remove your fan and shroud to keep this from happening again. I just used the electric fan up front, and the temp stayed fine.

#8

Somone please correct me if I am wrong, but aren’t solid aluminum motor mounts illegal?

9.3.1.8.1. Alternate, non-solid, motor mounts, providing the same height as original (3.3), are permitted.

#9

87isMan wrote:

I’ll second both the easy to do and getting them from a site or series sponsor. I got mine from Carr as well.

I had one shear at VIR last year. It took me less than an hour to change it in the paddock by myself. I was luck and found someone with a spare OEM mount. It’s a nuckle buster of a job, but if you can change you own brake pads… you can do this too.

BTW: Aluminum motor mounts are legal

#10

87isMan wrote:

[quote]I’ll sell you a set of Aluminum motor mounts from VAC the same ones you have listed above(I think) for half price. I don’t think the Aluminum motor mounts are illegal thats why I switched them out. The motor mounts and Trans mounts are pretty simple to do yourself. I got all mine from Carr ind. You can find them in the links section.

I corrected it to illegal, but looking further down the post I see they very well might be legal. Can we get a ruling on this[/quote]

If they ARE legal, does the offer still stand?

I have solid mounts on my Saleen and I like them.

#11

solid motor mounts are not legal as the quoted rule above clearly states (only non-solid are allowed)

any suspension bushing can be solid - perhaps that is where the misunderstanding crept in.
cheers,
bruce

#12

Aren’t my poly mounts "solid"?

What are the rules defining as solid? I have some steel mounts outside that are definetly not solid. I went with poly for a multitude of reasons the least of which being that they are what the "founder" of SE30 was running lending credence to the intent of the rule.

#13

I think that solid is referring to a mount where the upper and lower bolts are not separated by an elastic material. That’s not the case with poly motor mounts.

#14

OK, so what constitutes a ‘solid’ mount?

I found a set of 75D ‘poly’ mounts, but they have a single bolt that runs through it. Is that solid? Or, is it solid when there is no movement possible, as in an aluminum mount with zero softness???

#15

solid means the body is made out of metal with no compliance. The intent of the rule, as I understand it, is that solid mounting the engine can cause metal fatigue issues over time and we want to avoid that with our subframes.
thanks,
bruce

RichV wrote:

[quote]OK, so what constitutes a ‘solid’ mount?

I found a set of 75D ‘poly’ mounts, but they have a single bolt that runs through it. Is that solid? Or, is it solid when there is no movement possible, as in an aluminum mount with zero softness???[/quote]

#16

So:

Rubber = legal
Poly = legal
Steel = illegal
Aluminum = illegal

The configuration of the bolt that goes through it is irrelevant (a solid threaded bolt is OK, as are 2 bolts pointed 180 degrees from each other are also OK).

Is that correct? I want to do this once :slight_smile:

Thanks!

#17

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/topsellers.html

The $80 set is what I’d like to use.

Good price, worth a shot for the $$.

#18

what you wrote matches my interpretation.
cheers,
bruce

jblack wrote:

[quote]So:

Rubber = legal
Poly = legal
Steel = illegal
Aluminum = illegal

The configuration of the bolt that goes through it is irrelevant (a solid threaded bolt is OK, as are 2 bolts pointed 180 degrees from each other are also OK).

Is that correct? I want to do this once :slight_smile:

Thanks![/quote]

#19

jblack wrote:

[quote]So:

Rubber = legal
Poly = legal
Steel = illegal
Aluminum = illegal

The configuration of the bolt that goes through it is irrelevant (a solid threaded bolt is OK, as are 2 bolts pointed 180 degrees from each other are also OK).

Is that correct? I want to do this once :slight_smile:

Thanks![/quote]

Yes, you are correct.

The polyurethane mounts allow some movement which is better for the car than solid mounts, per Bruce’s explanation. I’ve had urethane mounts on my car for several years and they are still doing great. Also, keep the right side heat shield. I’ve seen a urethane mount melt when the owner removed the shield…which is technically illegal.

Carter

#20

155MPH wrote:

[quote]Aren’t my poly mounts "solid"?

What are the rules defining as solid? I have some steel mounts outside that are definetly not solid. I went with poly for a multitude of reasons the least of which being that they are what the "founder" of SE30 was running lending credence to the intent of the rule.[/quote]

JP:

Your mounts are not solid - not nearly as solid as metal mounts - and are certainly legal. The word "poly" implies a hard plastic thus the feeling that they are solid. However, they do have some compliance, helping reduce vibrations and keeping the car from shaking apart.

Yes, I’m exaggerating a bit but they work well and are legal.

Carter