Misc photos from my build...


#1

These were taken weekend before last and I’ve just now gotten time to post them. I ended up taking the car to MAACO yesterday for paint - I hit the EASY button. After 135 hours over the past 3 months, I decided to let them spray it after they quoted my $800 for polyurethane paint inside and out and said they would have it done by this Friday.

Any way here are some photos. This first one is of the subframe with new sub-frame bushings, factory eccentric trailing arm bushing, new CV boots, new rear wheel bearings, 3.73 LS diff with new diff mount bushing.


#2

Here is the subframe installed in the car with new suspension and sway bars:


#3

Another photo of rear suspension with new brakes, brake rotors, SS brake lines,
and wheel studs installed:


#4

Here the front:


#5

Looks like new. How did you manage to get the whole rear end in/out intact? You must have had some help with it.


#6

Make sure that Maaco covers your engine and wheel wells or you’ll have overspray on everything that you don’t want painted. What color are you going with?


#7

Nice and shiny! Now time to do some work on that Jeep :slight_smile:

I can’t really see it on the pictures, but did you reinforce sway bar (link) mounts on the control arms? If so how come you didn’t go with more triangular support?

screwynewy wrote:

It’s actually not that hard, although a bit awkward at the time – I used few jack stands and a jack to assist me.

Regards,
Igor


#8

Ken - With two floor jacks and hitting the right balance point, the subframe will literally almost fall out. It was easy to get out. With the floor jacks, I rolled it
out from under the car and disassembled it right there. I did have some help
getting the newly assembled subframe from the bench to floor at the rear
of the car. Installation was again about finding the balance point so that
the subframe did not bind on the two "body" studs. Harder than removal, but not to bad.

Igor - yes I did weld the re-enforcing tabs provided by IE onto the TA’s. Since you mention the jeep Igor, here is a photo of my 5 year old son. I was working on the e30 and walked around the car to see this. I had to stop what I was doing and go get the camera:


#9

That is priceless. :slight_smile:


#10

In looking at the rear mounted in the car, your lower end links are installed facing the opposite way of mine on the subframe. Which one of us is right? I can probably guess the answer…
:unsure:


#11

ddavidv wrote:

[quote]In looking at the rear mounted in the car, your lower end links are installed facing the opposite way of mine on the subframe. Which one of us is right? I can probably guess the answer…
:unsure:[/quote]

Yeah, Mine are installed so they pivot front to back too. I think the way Steven has them they might bind when the car is lowered to the ground. Can anyone confirm this?


#12

"good eye" guys !

Looking at the pictures I took before taking things apart, original endlinks were oriented 90 deg from what is seen on Steve’s pics.

[quote]screwynewy wrote:
Yeah, Mine are installed so they pivot front to back too.[/quote]

that’s how I think they should be installed.

I remember facing the same question because those (IE?) endlink bottom brackets are a bit bigger then OEM, and they did not want to sit flush in the proper orientation (hence the question “is this how they go?). After double-checking orientation, I had to grind down (just a little bit) the lip of the bracket on the control arm so that endlink would sit flush. I think I have pics of that, and if anyone is interested I should be able to gig them up)

Igor


#13

Thanks for the good eye! My endlinks were already slightly bent. I took them
off and very slowly bent them back straight using my shop press. One session
at the track and I would have been buying new ones.

Steven