King Tut's Spec Exhaust Installation Epic Fail

#1

So I clearly jinxed myself when I said it would be easy. I completely screwed up today. After seeing a thread about the Spec exhaust I made this post:

King Tut wrote:

Only to be told “exactly” by the next responder. Nobody decided to correct my error so I went on thinking that the OEM down pipes go INSIDE the Spec exhaust. Well I cut off the stock exhaust today and proceeded to use my Harbor Freight pipe expander to expand the OEM down pipes a little and then cut some 1/4" cuts as recommended and expanded it a little more. So then I decide to try and fit the Spec exhaust figuring I had definitely opened up the OEM downpipes enough that the Spec exhaust would fit INSIDE. Not a chance, not even close in fact now both pipes were about the same diameter so I was screwed. At this point I realized that the Spec exhaust is supposed to go on the OUTSIDE of the OEM downpipes. I then tried to expand the Spec exhaust and broke my Harbor Freight exhaust expander (cheap POS GRRRRRR). I tried to compress the OEM downpipes back down and tried hammering them, but no luck. I am essentially left with the Spec exhaust and the OEM downpipes at the same diameter.

I was planning on working tomorrow, but now I am going to take off work to hopefully find an exhaust shop that is willing to fix my mistakes and mount the Spec exhaust correctly. I am very worried that no shop will touch it since there is no cat, but I figure I already removed it so the illegalness is off the table, and this is an off road vehicle anyways. I did drive it a little to see how loud with just the downpipe and it sounded very mean, haha. If I can’t get this corrected I guess Roebling this weekend is off the table as there is no way it will pass the dB test, haha.

#2

Maybe you’ve already tried this, but you might be able to take one of the clamps that came with the exhaust, put it around the factory pipe, tighten it down until it compresses the pipe a bit, loosen it up, spin it 90 degrees, tighten it again, and repeat until the pipe is back down to size.

#3

I actually tried that, but it doesn’t compress the pipe before the clamp is fully tightened. I was thinking about going out and buying some smaller clamps as well, but decided it was time to let an exhaust shop worry about it.

#4

I think the ‘exactly’ came from reading what I wanted to read and not what was actually written. Sorry. Swagging tube ends is not necessary, and would be counter to notching the ends.

How long is the swagged section? The my Spec exhaust’s pipes had significant overlap. You may be able to remove your swagged section and adjust the length through those sections. You’ll have to test fit to confirm.

#5

So $105 later and the Spec Exhaust is installed. They ended up not using the 2 clamps up front and just welded it to the OEM downpipes. Man you guys were right about it sitting low. I can see how trailers and the track can easily remove the exhaust from your car. I noticed that I only have about 1/4" of clearance between the exhaust and the subframe, but I can work on improving that another time. Car sounds great and is driving great. I’m ready for a great weekend.

#6

Sorry to hear about your adventure. I just re-installed my spec exhaust last night after my new trailer removed for me at CMP while loading up. My spec exhaust is firmly pressed against the rear subframe with no clearance. It was that way before ripping it off too.

#7

King Tut wrote:

That will work great until you need to change your clutch or remove the tranny.

#8

Well that is the way the OEM exhaust is as well. I have gotten VERY good at removing the 6 bolts/nuts to get the downpipes off. I think I have done it 3 times now. Remember I have already replaced a driveshaft only to find out my transmission was broke. Each of those involved removing those parts. I will live with it.

#9

I had a ~5* kink put in mine right under the rear subframe. I used the exhaust hanger at the back of the rear subframe to keep the exhaust from bangin’ on the subrame. Used a big ass SS hose clamp from Lowes to secure it. I didn’t uber tighten it so the pipe could twist inside the clamp allowing for a little frame twist. The kink kept the exhaust from sloping on down towards the ground. The muffler would have been really close to the ground otherwise.

I also had to relocate/refab both muffler hangers. I didn’t mind too much because my buddy’s welder was screwin up and it gave me a good excuse to break down and buy a nice mig welder.

I clamped the exhaust together at the down pipe. I wasn’t so sure about how well I could weld down between the two small pipes. I got them to fit together easily enough (with the aid of a 2x4 and dead blow hammer) by cleaning up about 2" of the cut end of the down pipe with emery cloth until shiny. I cleaned the inside of the 2 exhaust connections with a little drum sander in a die grinder. I ended up with about 1/2" insertion. I welded the two longer pieces together and clamped the muffler on. I didn’t want anything too overly long in case I had to remove it.

Sorry about your misadventure, but then that’s part of the learning process, right? :wink:

#10

After reading all the horror stories about installing this exhaust I was ready for the worst when I put mine on yesterday. But it took me about an hour and it was on, not one single hitch. So then I was scared that i didnt hook it up right but looking at everyones reference and looking at my install it was spot on. I was concerned about the exhaust hitting the sub frame but after reading this I guess its normal.

#11

I really found that by twisting the pipe where it connects under the middle of the car you can get enough clearance for the subframe. When I reinstalled mine a couple weekends ago I just twisted enough that it won’t make any contact.

#12

My SE30 exhaust was a nightmare. The PO of my car dropped 4 wheels and ripped it off so I thought that maybe the bends we effed because of that. After reading all the other posts I highly doubt it. Last night we had to heat and bend the first and intermediate pipes to even get it close. If you spin the intermediate pipe just right there is a little clearance below the subframe. However, when hook the hangers on the “muffler” it pulls it up tight against the subframe. It is on and I am running it that way for the local Race School and first race (at least).