The I-J scraper requires some material be removed to get it to fit. Put in 6-8 bolts to locate it. Then test fit the oil pump and turn the crank around a bit. After an afternoon spent repeatedly removing material and fitting again, the oil pump will finally be able to go on correctly, and the crank lobes won’t hit the scraper anymore. But make sure you use enough bolts to locate it precisely each time. The bolt holes are large enough that a couple bolts won’t do it.
I-J sells a teflon scraper that can be installed without clearancing material away from the crank lobes. That will make the install go faster but it costs twice as much. The pump hole will still need work tho.
A scraper is a lot easier to install if you do it with the motor out. If the motor is in the car then you have to do everything upside down and the scraper isn’t going to stay in place. The way to do it is to put some high tack sealant goobage on the bottom of the block and then use some of the bolts to fasten the scraper into place. Let it dry over-night. Then come back the next morning, remove the bolts, put the gasket on your oil pan, and fasten the oil pan on.
If the scraper moves during he above install then you need to turn the crank and confirm that the lobes clear.
Below is a thread that shows someone replacing some or all of the oil pan bolts with studs. This is pretty clever because if you were installing the scraper with the engine in the car, the studs would hold the scraper on while you jockey the oil pan in place.