IE studs prone to bending / breakage?

#1

Are IE studs prone to bending / breakage?

Here’s why I ask…

At the end of Hyperfest, I went to mount my street tires back up for the drive home. (This is a DE 318is which I normally tow to the track, but 'cause SP is so close I opted to drive).

As I was in a hurry to get the street rubber back on due to impending showers, I did not let the wheels cool before trying to remove the nuts. (I know… bad idea). I ended up cross threading one stud, and pulled the other three out with the nut still attached.

I had spares in my tool box, so I replaced three studs on the right rear, and one on the left rear. As it was hard to get the rim back on flush with the hub centric ring in place I opted not to use them on the rears. (The fronts slid on just fine).

Today, I went to remove the cross threaded stud which I wasn’t able to get off of the right rear, and found that the three I had replaced are now bent. Could this be due to running with only three secured studs? The trip home was only about 1 hour.

I did torque the nuts to 80 ft/lbs. and checked them twice on the way home. they stayed tight.

As a final note / question; if the load of the vehicle is carried by the surface friction of the wheel / hub, and not by the studs, why did the studs bend when not using the hub centric rings as opposed to when they were used?

edit: I’m using Konig Rewinds w/ hub centric rings, & IE studs.

#2

I’d say the studs bent because you only had three holding the wheel coupled with the lack of the hubcentric ring to carry the vertical load.

#3

That’s what I’m thinking as well. Does pretty much everyone run the IE studs?

Is there a better alternative?

#4

My studs are from Turner, not sure if they are different though.

#5

The studs from Turner appear to be higher quality. I think I’ll go with them as well.

I haven’t pulled the other rear wheel yet, (it has four studs & nuts in place - but no hub centric ring) so I’ll see if the studs on that side are bent as well. If they are, then that would lead me to beleive that the vertical load of the vehicle needs to be supported by the hub centric ring.

I’ll pull the fronts off too (which both have good studs, and hub centric rings in place). If any of those studs are bent I’m going to assume that I got $hitty studs.

I’ll post again once I’ve had a chance to inspect the others.

#6

BimmerWorld sells them too… These have been bulletproof (as well as bulletnosed):

http://store.bimmerworld.com/Product627

#7

Someone told me once the best studs out are by RRT. I’m using lugbolts and I know a couple people actively racing SpecE30 using lugbolts.

#8

I have no way to support who’s got the strongest studs but I’ve got mine from BW and have no complaints (actually quite pleased). As for the studs vs. lugs… studs make it easier to quickly change tires.

#9

TheRedBaron wrote:

[quote]BimmerWorld sells them too… These have been bulletproof (as well as bulletnosed):

http://store.bimmerworld.com/Product627[/quote]

Me likey. :slight_smile:

Thanks to everyone for your help!

#10

drumbeater wrote:

I asked Barry (RRT) if he had any more and he told me to get them from Vorshlag. They did not have the bulletnosed ones so I got mine from James at Bimmerworld.

#11

Vorshlag has the bullet nosed studs. I run them. They require at least a 5mm spacer due to a miscommunication in manufacturing. Because of this, they’re priced lower than they would be otherwise. If you’re okay with the spacer requirement, they’re the least expensive high quality studs.

I always bring 4 or 5 spare studs with me to the track, and a handful of spare lug bolts just in case.

#12

I looked at the Vorshlag stud kit, and wasn’t impressed. They look just like the ones I have now (and they don’t appear to be bull-nosed by the pic on their site).

The ones I have now are the silver metal, non-bull nosed studs, and look just like the Vorshlag studs.

I think (I may be wrong) that the black metal ones should be stronger? Like the difference between the metal in a regular socket & an impact socket.

#13

NOT_MPOWER wrote:

[quote]I looked at the Vorshlag stud kit, and wasn’t impressed. They look just like the ones I have now (and they don’t appear to be bull-nosed by the pic on their site).

The ones I have now are the silver metal, non-bull nosed studs, and look just like the Vorshlag studs.

I think (I may be wrong) that the black metal ones should be stronger? Like the difference between the metal in a regular socket & an impact socket.[/quote]

Vorshlag sells 2 types of studs. You’re referring to the regular stud kit, not the “Competition Wheel Stud”. See
75mm and 90mm competition studs.

#14

TMS studs are made by ARP. ARP makes great head studs/bolts and I trust their quality.

They are similar in design to Vorshlag but the seating area is slightly deeper (13mm) than the Vorshlag (10mm).

#15

laz wrote:

[quote]NOT_MPOWER wrote:

[quote]I looked at the Vorshlag stud kit, and wasn’t impressed. They look just like the ones I have now (and they don’t appear to be bull-nosed by the pic on their site).

The ones I have now are the silver metal, non-bull nosed studs, and look just like the Vorshlag studs.

I think (I may be wrong) that the black metal ones should be stronger? Like the difference between the metal in a regular socket & an impact socket.[/quote]

Vorshlag sells 2 types of studs. You’re referring to the regular stud kit, not the “Competition Wheel Stud”. See
75mm and 90mm competition studs.[/quote]

Ahhhh Soooooo… Sankyou Velly much! :lol:
Those look much better!

#16

I have used two sets of the bulletnose black ones from bimmerworld and have been nothing but happy and impressed. Never cross threaded one, have good seat depth, never bent or lost one. Replaced when I did my wheel bearings.