How bad is this rust/damage?

#1

I bought an '87is off Craigslist about a month ago for $1500 and I didn’t really know what I was looking at. So I started stripping it out and found some damage and rust. I took it to a body shop that I trust and the owner (who used to race with the SCCA) said the damage and rust was too much and that I should just buy another car.

I posted the car in the classifieds here but I’m probably asking too much ($1000) for a car with a bad frame. Before I go spending more money on another car, I want a second opinion.

Here are the photos:

This is the floor pan, you can see the rust holes. The black area on the left is a metal plate someone welded in (poorly).

This photo shows the area behind the wire harness where the wheel well meets the floor pan in the corner. I can see light through the holes.

This is how it looks from the outside.

Other than this area and the drain hole under the battery box, there is no rust on the car. The body shop guy said the rust and poor repair job were causing the whole corner of the car to flex. This has caused some welds to break loose, in particular parts 8 and 10 in this diagram are mostly broken loose from part number 2.

I need to know if I should try to find someone to fix this mess, or just get a roller and transfer my engine and drive train into it, or just sell the car as a parts car and buy a whole new car. I don’t have a lot of space available to keep two cars, so keeping this for parts for myself is not really an option.

I look forward to any advice you guys can give me.

#2

If it was my car I would fix it. I currently have most of that section of my car cut out. I cut out 2 rectangular peices so that only the center rail was left and was going to weld in some .060 sheet metal tonight but I didn’t realize I was out of argon. I also considered letting my cage builder fix it but it is usualy cheaper and better to do everything yourself.

P.S. Your pictures are so blurry that I can’t really see whats going on left of that rail.

#3

Sorry about the photo’s, they came off my camera phone. Even in person with good light it’s hard to tell what’s going on there. I chipped away as much rust and sound deadening material as I could, but it is still a mess.

Are you saying that if I could find a junked car where this section was intact, that I could have it cut out and put in my car for a reasonable price (paying a shop somewhere to do it)?

#4

I had this same issue with the first car I bought.

I eventually fixed it, but I did not use this car for a race car.

The shell of the car is one of the cheaper parts of your whole build. are you willing to put a 3000+ dollar cage on top of this?

#5

I’m a big negative Nelly when it comes to rusty cars, but if that is the only area of concern on the whole thing I’d consider fixing it. Remember, this is a race car…it doesn’t have to be pretty, just functional (and legal). Floors are pretty easy to do. Some of the rest of it would require some creative fabrication but once it’s all welded together, no worries. I’d look at it more as a cost factor; what will it cost to make the shell solid.

Now, I don’t know where you are but I know in the classifieds right now there is a 4 door shell right up the road from Summit Point for cheap. Another guy has a stripped shell for sale over near NJ for about $250. Lots of work to swap everything over, but costs you nothing but time. Weigh your options.

#6

My first spec e30 was like that but on the right side, I think it was caused by a collision that pushed the wheel into the well, bad repair, then rust. It contributed to my car being totalled in a racing incident, the right inner fender pulled away from the firewall, tore the trans tunnel and wrinkled the roof. Being on the left side you will have an ankle bar there but keep in mind your feet are down there…

I have an black 87 roller also, where are you located??

Al Taylor

#7

Yeah, I am thinking I should not try to use this chassis. There is no need to take risks when it comes to safety.

I live in Fayetteville, TN, about 1.5 hours west from Chattanooga or 1.5 hours south from Nashville. I would be interested in your roller if it’s straight and relatively rust free.

#8

I still have this shell that will be a semi-roller (no rear suspension) when we get through with it.
http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,48441/catid,31/

It is now located in Cumming, GA. If you want it, it’s yours for free. I need to take a good close look at the tub to make sure it is solid because I picked it up just for parts.

I believe it would be a pre-ABS car, but if you are contemplating a tub-up build and have the time you can swap everything from your 87.

#9

MIght as well leave it be - it’ll keep getting lighter as you drive!