ah ranger, always living on the edge 
High end gauges
NASA144
#10
It’s street/track use now… when it’s full track the gauges will go up in the dash-vent.
I should see coolant dumping in the rear view, right?
Ranger
#12
NASA144 wrote:
[quote]It’s street/track use now… when it’s full track the gauges will go up in the dash-vent.
I should see coolant dumping in the rear view, right?[/quote]
Engine #5 was killed by coolant loss. The first thing that happens is that the coolant drops away from the sensor, so your temp gauge isn’t going to tell you. The driver, not me, brought the car in when oil hit 270deg.
Ranger
#13
I just figured out that Autometer has a line of gauges they call “Elite” that might be a better choice than the Stack gauges. The Autometer gauges are about the same price but have more gauge colors and have a flashing warn feature. That means that you could run your gauges normally in “White”, set a warn color of Amber and then have the gauges flash Red when hitting an alarm threshold.
Stack has only white, green and red. Really needs an amber. And no flashing. The different colors are really nice. Just reading the description of the gauges doesn’t do the idea justice.
Ranger
#15
rrroadster wrote:
Ya, I was thinking that the gauges looked awfully darn similar. Thx for the info.
MadManMotors
#16
[quote=“Ranger” post=52139]kishg wrote:
The idea solution would be a faily large digital dash with a high resolution display, not primitive 20yr old LCD/backlight technology. Then you could design whatever visual features you wanted, and put them wherever you wanted on the display. Put 2 OT gauges on the right, just above your OP gauge. Make the gauges have analog needles with a digital center. Put coolant temp gauges on the right. Make the entire gauge turn yellow at an alert threshold and flash red at an alarm threshold. Make your speedo a black bar graph that surrounds your analog tach display. All of the display unit realestate should be entirely configurable. Then have soft keys around the perimeter to execute your pre-programmed instructions.
Now that would be cool.[/quote]
That’s funny - I’ve been investigating gauge options for our new car, and come to the same conclusion. Something like an iPad or 7" Android tablet mounted in the former gauge cluster, and one could monitor what was important for that outing, completely customizable. With the addition of configurable soft buttons that perform multiple functions…say turn on a fan, set a marker in the data, and tweet about leading the race, all with one press. B)
Good info on the Stack setup though, thanks.
theShoe
#17
These guys make a dash that does most of everything you can want.
http://www.rlcracing.com/
theShoe
#18
These guys make a dash that does most of everything you can want.
http://www.rlcracing.com/
sneville44
#19
[quote=“NASA144” post=52220]It’s street/track use now… when it’s full track the gauges will go up in the dash-vent.
I should see coolant dumping in the rear view, right?[/quote]
For coolant dumping…in addition to my OP/WT gauges with warning lights, I added an additional warning light for low coolant pressure. The thought being that if you suddenly lost coolant (and somehow didn’t spin in your own mess) that loss of pressure would be an earlier warning signal than a temp climb. I bought mine from Pegasus Racing:
Ranger
#20
[quote=“sneville44” post=54830][quote=“NASA144” post=52220]It’s street/track use now… when it’s full track the gauges will go up in the dash-vent.
I should see coolant dumping in the rear view, right?[/quote]
For coolant dumping…in addition to my OP/WT gauges with warning lights, I added an additional warning light for low coolant pressure. The thought being that if you suddenly lost coolant (and somehow didn’t spin in your own mess) that loss of pressure would be an earlier warning signal than a temp climb. I bought mine from Pegasus Racing:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8[/quote]
That’s the right idea. Cheaper from egauges tho.
Ranger
#22
Mine is connected to the port in the block where the hose to the throttle body goes in. Just need an 12 or 14mm adapter. Jim Levie’s solution might be more clever tho. His is in the small return line between overflow tank and radiator…not to be confused with the small line from overflow tank to overflow catch can.
One reason that Jim’s is better is that no remote hose was required. Pressure sensors shouldn’t be connected right to the block because heat and vibration is supposed to be hard on them. So my sensor location required 12" or so of hose to remote it, but Jim’s went in with a couple hose barbs.
jlevie
#23
The easiest installation is to tee the sensor into the small hose that runs from the reservoir to the radiator. A 3-4psi pressure switch and warning light is far better than a pressure sensor and gauge. Once at normal temperature, if the light comes on you shut off the engine.
kishg
#24
ok. where can i pickup the tee for that? I have 1/8 npt temp sensors. as for gauge vs switch all my sensors are going to a aim dash where i can define warning light thresholds. i don’t plan to look at the values in real time.
jlevie
#25
Go to Lowes, Home Depo, a plumbing supply house, etc and get a 1/8" NPT tee and two 1/4"x1/8"NPT hose barbs.
Does your AIM allow for conditional logic for a warning light? I have my IQ3 programmed to only turn on the light if the pressure is below 3psi and the engine temperature is above 170F. That avoids a nuisance alarm on a cold engine.
dgorman
#27
[quote=“jlevie” post=54944]Go to Lowes, Home Depo, a plumbing supply house, etc and get a 1/8" NPT tee and two 1/4"x1/8"NPT hose barbs.
Does your AIM allow for conditional logic for a warning light? I have my IQ3 programmed to only turn on the light if the pressure is below 3psi and the engine temperature is above 170F. That avoids a nuisance alarm on a cold engine.[/quote]
We have a similar condition. 200F/3PSI