Help w/ Transmission swap


#1

I am pulling my old transmission from my 87i to replace it w/ a new/used getrag 260. My 2nd gear synchro is shot. So anyway i pulled the exhaust, the driveshafts and shifter mechanism, and all the bolts holding the tranny to the engine EXCEPT ONE. How on earth do i get to this top bolt? I already removed 3 different coolant hoses and i can now see the bolt from the top. What comination of wrenches do i need to get to the bolt? Help!!

Dan


#2

Loosen the motor mounts (but do not remove nuts), and drop the rear trans mount down. The motor will tilt back and rest against the firewall. Get a really long extention with a wobble end or universal, and remove it from the back side of the trans.


#3

Dan,
If it’s the same one we had problems with it’s the top right looking forward. I don’t remember the socket size but we use a universal on the socket and then a series of extensions back down along the transmission and a large breaker bar. It helpd to have another person up top the hold he socket on the bolt to keep it from slipping off (heavy work gloves recommended here).
Have you gotten the starter bolts?

Good luck!

Seth


#4

Agreed, I had a friend hold the bolt from the back side of the intake while I used a breaker bar. After dropping the motor as low as it would go, using a flash light, a very long extension, and a swivel or u-joint, I was able to get it loose. Have fun.


#5

Thanks for the help everyone.

So you are basically getting to the bolt from behind/below the trans and coming up above the bell housing? The helper works from the topside and guides/holds the torx socket onto the end of the bolt.

Does the starter need to come off or just loose? It appears the starter is bolted right to the trans bellhousing and NOT through a flange on the engine block.

I hope the rest of my build goes easier than this!

Thanks again.

Dan


#6

Starter will need to come off because of that silly sheet metal cover that goes behind the flywheel.


#7

yep. Good advice here…that bolt sucks. Uberlong extension and a U joint should do it after you let the engine tilt back on to the subframe. Try this in Fl, outside in the summer on a black car while on your back if you want to have some real fun.


#8

Yeah really long extention is about the only way to do (you’re going to curse like a mofo trying to get a socket back on that car). besides what has alraedy been said, if you have a helper with small hands have him up top and snake his arm behind the starter to where that bolt is (take the AFM out of course). while the person under the car is helen keller’ing the last bolt with the long ext (there is no visible path to it) the person up top can walk/guide it on the bolt. Same goes for the reinstall.

Also if you don’t give a darn about the rubber heat/noise dampening) mat between the body and the trans rip it out (if its real crusty like mine it’ll fall apart in your hands. while I couldn’t 100% confirm it there looked like there was a few straegically placed bumps in the sound deadener that got in the way of a clear the path to that bolt (intsall was a ton easier, could have just been the cussing taking it out though…)

Either way good luck and have a beer ready (you’ll need it)