Help... Springs next.???

#1

Double Duty/SE30 build.
87 325is has on board now…
Susp - Tokico Red lowering springs & HP blues in rear, OE/Boge in front, IE maxi fixed (-1.25) camber plates.
Mounts - Vorshlag Poly engine & UUC Reds w/enforcers Tranny.
Wheels/Brakes - Basketsweaves w/RA1’s, HT 10’s

Ordering soon/today.
AKG 75D - Diff mt, Subframe, offset front control & Rear Camber/Toe Correction Kit
OE - RTAB’s.

Questions are…

Should I use the OE rubber RTAB’s or urethanes? It appears the OE ones allow better movement for the camber/toe kit.
I can’t swing both the Bilsteins and H&R’s right now. I’m thinking the springs would be nice first to get ride hgt and such so I can get the alignment set. Ok to run the H&R’s with these shocks?

Your thoughts…
Thanks!
Will

#2

I’ve read a number of posts re. the camber/toe kit and I think that there’s a slim majority of folks using the softer OEM rtab bushings with it for their greater compliance. I don’t think there’s really a consensus on the issue. IMO most folks that have done the kit are happy with it. Some had binding problems tho.

#3

Thx Ranger… Think I’ll try the oe ones first.
What are your thoughts on the springs now, bilsteins later???
Will it be an issue… Bottom out on damper tubes? Blow them out as too lowered?
Thanks!

#4

If I couldn’t do springs and shocks at the same time, and if the shock on the car are still good, I’d do the springs first. Understand that th shocks on the car migh be a bit under damped for the race springs and they may not last long.

#5

“Under damper” Not designed for that low, seals will blow?

Anyone have a used set of spec race springs?

#6

Not to mention that when you install the front springs you are only one step away from swapping out the strut. It makes sense to do them at the same time so you don’t have to pull it all apart twice.

#7

I agree. I wouldn’t do either until you can afford both. It is quite a pain in the ass to change the front struts on these cars since the strut doesn’t come out of the hub like 95% of cars. I looked for used suspension before I bought mine, and I didn’t find any.

#8

Wasn’t to bad when I put my IE maxi fixed camber plates… Of course, on there are tokico lowering springs which helped.
Bushings, brakes, RA-1’s have really put a dent in the garage coffee can :frowning:
Used will do for now…

#9

NASA144 wrote:

It isn’t the height as much as the spring rates. Race springs have a lot higher rate than what you have on the car now. To prevent bouncing of the wheel the shock/strut has to have higher damping.

As an FYI, Tokico springs rates are 165 front and 265 rear. H&R Race springs are 315 front and 570 rear. The race springs rate are twice what you have on the car now and really need shock/struts valved for the higher spring rates.

#10

I agree… bad idea on springs only. Looks like next spring for the H&R/Bilsteins, unless a good set of used ones come up :slight_smile:

thanks guys!

#11

Everything at once is best. If you want to be on the track before you can afford doing the whole car I would do brakes, then suspension, and then wheels and tires.

#12

Well… I’m not looking to race till end of next year (hopfully), but I need a ride for DE4.