Hello Spec E30 people!

#21

[quote=“Patton” post=61318]Ranger, do you still have an engine fan on the car? I reread the post and I think not…

Delete the engine’s fan and the use of the BMW a/c fan in front of the radiator on a new wire circuit seems to do the trick in all of my cars.[/quote]

Neg on the engine fan. I’ve the aux (a/c) fan like most folks. I’ve played with a number of solutions but I keep coming back to the aux fan. It’s a heavy beast but it works and it’s durable. Which are two results that many of my ideas struggle with.

#22

I should have thought of this last week but you should definitely replace the water pump when you do the timing belt and every time you do the timing belt. I think there may be something about putting the belt back up to the correct tension that lets your water pump know it’s time to fail.

#23

The recommend replacement schedule for the water pump is every other timing belt change. Which on a street car (if you are doing it right) would be every 100-120k or 10 years. That, as it turns out, would be the right schedule for complete replacement of the cooling system (thermostat, radiator, expansion tank, and all hoses).

On a race car I figure on three years for the timing belt and cooling system.

#24

Thanks for the advice.

I am starting to get a bit worried that I may have a small head gasket leak because I have had to fill up the coolent overflow tank 2 times already and I don’t see any leaks.

The exhaust is not blowing white smoke but it may just be a very small leak or burning a small amount of coolant.

I will have to rent a pressure tester to confirm. I removed the oil fill cap and ran my finger around the inside of the valve cover and did not get any brown slime so thats good and the oil looks fine (but it was changed right before I got it)

Hopefully its nothing but I will be keeping an eye on it and the coolent level.

#25

It doesn’t take much water to turn your whole oil load into chocolate milk…call it less than a cup. Get the enging good and warm so the thermostat opens. Then run it at a decent rpm so there’s plenty of pressure. Look closely at all hose connections and under the water pump.

If you can’t find the cause of the leak and the volume continues to be minor, consider blowing it off until it gets worse.

If you’ve not already installed a coolant pressure switch, now’s the time.

#26

There is a tester that uses blue liquid to check for exhaust getting into the coolant. Probably every shop has it. I think exhaust getting into the coolant is usually the first leek that happens with a head gasket. The exhaust could be pressurizing the cooling system and blowing it out the overflow tube. I would check this first. The coolant system may still hold good pressure.

#27

Did you do the timing belt and then the problem started? If so I’ll bet a 6 pack that it’s the water pump.

#28

No I have not done the any work on the car yet. I have just been driving it to work for the past couple of weeks.

I’ll check closer for small leaks from the hoses first. Thanks.

#29

Pressure test the cooling system with the engine hot. It theres a leak in the cooling system the pressure test will reveal it. And don’t forget to check in the cabin for a leaking heater core. It the engine passes the pressure test, chalk the inside of the overflow tube. The next time the car needs the coolant topped up check to see if the chalk has been washed off. If it has, the head gasket is leaking.

#30

Cheap coolant exhaust tester
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_2

#31

Hey guys! Good news. I found out where I losing coolant from and its through the resevoir level sensor fitting on the plastic tank. Not sure how I didn’t notice it before but I just got done doing a joy ride and when I pulled in the driveway I popped the hood to see it gurgling out that fitting.

What a relief (hehe).

I will be at the Winter Meltdown @ CMP in HPDE 3. Virgin E30 run, woohoo!!!

See you there!