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I’ve noticed on a few cars that the heater control panel has been replaced with an aluminium panel to house gauges, switches, etc. I’ve removed my heater core & associated ductwork and cables. I would like to remove the heater control panel as well and fab a cover. While reading the rules I don’t see a provision to do so.
Is this legal?
Thanks very much
Paul Stoddart
I think it is covered by this one:
9.3.5.2.2. Air conditioning system may be removed in whole or in part.
I would key in on the in whole part as the heater control panel is part of that and then finish it off with this one:
9.3.13.22. The following interior components may be removed: carpeting, seats, headliner (to
include the leading plastic panel), console, radio/cd/cassette/navigation/trip computer
systems, OEM seat belts, speakers, glove box door, panels under the dash, grab
handles, driver and passenger door (front and rear) window glass and mechanisms,
heating and cooling system interior ducts, rear passenger compartment trim panels (side
panels and fabric package shelf) and sun visors. The third brake light shall remain in
place and a custom bracket may be used to secure it to the steel package shelf.
Allowing removal of the other stuff that mounts in that opening.
so does everyone ditch the heater core and HVAC related items? What is the trick setup on these cars to keep windshield clear and defrosted?
Some do delete those parts and then have to come up with odd defroster solutions. Others retain enough of the heating system for a functional defroster. I took the latter approach.
I had kept my heater core till they lowered the weight to 2700. It was 19 lbs removed. I used to think it was needed for defrost but after owning my previous E30 racecar without a defrost it really was not much of a problem. When I needed defrost I just used a hose from the NACA duct to direct air to the windshield and all was well. Now that I have removed it from the SE30 I love it gone. Much more room under the dash to manipulate wires and such.
I left in the OEM defrost. In the NE if you race in early spring or fall its almost mandatory when its a wet morning with 40 degree temps. If you don’t get the sun up its hard to clear the windows.
How did you delete the heater core? Did you just insert a smaller diameter piece of pipe between the inlet and outlet hoses to the heater core or did you delete it further back in the hose path?
3 ways to do it.
Loop hose from back of head to tstat.
Cut the hose at back of head and tstat, stick a big bolt into the hose at each end and clamp hose shut with a hose clamp.
Block off port at back of head with a plate, and then make a plug at the tstat. This is my favorite because there’s no hose used. Every hose is a possible failure point. RIP Engine #5.
[quote=“Ranger” post=59381]3 ways to do it.
Does anyone make a block off plate for this way? (I am used to e36’s where block off plates are mass produced)
[quote=“JonnyAction” post=59414][quote=“Ranger” post=59381]3 ways to do it.
Does anyone make a block off plate for this way? (I am used to e36’s where block off plates are mass produced)[/quote]
It’s pretty easy to make it yourself out of a thick piece of aluminum, but yes, there is a kit out there. I don’t recall who makes it tho. Poke around Ireland, VAC, Turner, TC Motorsports etc. It’s one of the common BMW aftermarket outfits.
[quote=“Rob in VA” post=59421]
http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?category=e30%20Engine%2FDrivetrain[/quote]
Good find. Yes, that’s the kit.
To block off the tstat I use a rubber stopper that has a bolt in it to expand the stopper’s size. I wasn’t entirely sure I could depend on it, but I figured that my coolant pressure switch would alert me if it blew. That was 2yrs ago. If you look at the coolant circuit you’ll see that the stopper is just before the pump. That means that the stopper is near the low pressure point for the whole system. I don’t think that the stopper is under much stress.