Harbor Freight list of good/bad stuff


#1

Me being a cheapskate, I’m a big HF shopper. Over the years I’ve learned a lot re. HF stuff. Much of their stuff is worth getting, but not all of it. The purpose of this thread is to creating a lasting body of wisdom re. the HF stuff that could be a good deal, and the HF stuff that is junk.

Jacks. The smallest race jack is pretty darn small. It’s very light and that’s handy, but it’s narrow and that makes it a tip hazard. It also doesn’t lift the car very high, high enough for small jackstands, but not high enough for big stable jackstands. Another impact of not lifting the car high, is that as the jack and car get higher, the jack is pulling the car towards you as much as it it is trying to lift the car up. This causes a number of problems if the jack can’t freely roll forward. It makes any jackstands under the car want to tip, and it can start moving the jack’s foot under the car.

The next size up of jack is still 1.5ton, but it’s taller. It’s still too narrow tho. Ok to use on a cement surface, but not as good if no hard surface because of the tip hazard.

The next size up is the 2 ton jack. This is ideal for the paddock. It has wider front wheels so it’s more stable, and because it’s a 2 ton jack, it’s easier to push the handle down. This means that you can separate the 2 half of the jack handle and only use the bottom half. This short handle mod makes the jack more convenient to move around.

None of these jacks are going to last forever. The first thing that will go is the pieces that hold the two jack handle together so eventually you’ll have to use a bolt to keep the two halfs together. IIRC, a 6mm bolt threads right in. I think I’ve gotten ~3yrs out of each HF jack.

Drill bits. The ones marketed as Titanium Nitride coated suck. They’re the gold drill bits. The ones marketed as High Speed Steel are pretty good. If you have a Drill Doctor to sharpen bits, you can keep the TiNi bits in service if you sharpen them occasionally and don’t use them on steel.

Don’t expect accurate gauges. Everything at HF that has a gauge isn’t very accurate. Not just air pressure gauges, but leakdown gauges, regulators, etc.

I have a HF scissor lift. It will raise the car up, I dunno, 3’ or so. I’ve had it for prob 7yrs and have used it a lot. A scissor lift creates some comprimises. Getting to the middle of the car is a pita. Can’t remove exhaust, or driveshaft, and swapping the diff is a bear. But for a lot of work it’s been really terrific. I used to work on the car all alone late at night. On a number of occasions a jackstand would be lightly loaded and me moving around on the creeper would knock the jackstand over. Then I’d have to hold up the car for a second or two while I frantically reached for the tipped jackstand.

I got the lift with a 25% coupon. The price has gone up a fair amount since I bought it tho. I had one or two hydraulic rams fail early on. I called HF and they agreed to send me a new ram even tho I was out of warranty by a week. They said it would take 3 months. So I took the ram to a local hydraulic repair shop and they repaired it in 20min. Eventually the replacement ram arrived from HF and has spent all these years up in the attic as a spare.

The HF scissor lift is very heavily built. The steel is massive and the welds all look great.

The reason I got a scissor lift is that my garage is quite small so I felt that a 2 post lift would constantly get in my way. I love having a lift, but if I had it to do over again, I think that I would get those RaceJacks that are 2 separate pieces, one at each side of the car. They don’t lift the car as high, but I really hate the way the scissor lift gets in the way of the middle of the car.

I have to drive the car up on 2 thicknesses of 2x10" in order to clear the lift. That too is a pita.

More recollections will pop into my head as other folks add to this thread.


#2

This may be old news but I just learned and have been taking advantage of the fact that like some more expensive brands HF hand tools have a lifetime warranty. If you break it just bring it in and they will exchange it. I brought two ratcheting box wrenches in. I only had to bring in the two that were broken.

I am glad I didn’t go and get a set of Craftsman like I had plan since the HF broke after about 6 months of intense use (12mm and 13mm)

I luckily followed a guy who was exchanging two 1/2 in wratchets that looked like they were bought in the middle of WWII and might have been used to beat enemy soldiers to death because they were nasty…


#3

90 degree air tool, their house brand, is junk and lasted about 10 min as did it’s free replacement. Went with a $50 Ingersol Rand instead which has been flawless


#4

[ul]
[li]Wheel Bearing Kit/Bearing Separators[/li]
[ul][li]Got a decent amount of use out of their “front” wheel bearing kit and their large wheel bearing separator.[/li][/ul]
[li]Welding face shield w/ auto tinting[/li]
[ul][li]Can’t say I’m an expert on what makes a great/expensive face shield, but their shield was pretty comfortable and easy to adjust.[/li][/ul]
[li]Breaker bars / socket extensions[/li]
[ul][li]In my opinion, probably the best kind of thing to buy from HF. All metal. All simple.[/li][/ul]
[li]Bench vise[/li]
[ul][li]Another item that isn’t really worth the extra money for name brands. My HF bench vise was super cheap compared to others I’d seen and has taken a beating.[/li][/ul]
[li]Wire brushes[/li]
[ul][li]I’ve never really gotten a lot of reuse from more expensive brushes, so HF ends up being a good place to get good brushes and I don’t feel so bad when I have to chuck them.[/li][/ul]
[/ul]

My criteria has basically been “how much like pizza is this product?” As in – “if I were going to build this as cheaply/badly as possible, how bad could my product really be?” If the answer is “it’d be hard to mess this up”, then I consider HF. If it’s “there are a number of things that could go wrong like mechanical connectors, electrical connectors, fluid seals, spring rates, etc”, then I try to go name brand. The welding mask was probably the only thing that goes counter to that philosophy (due to the auto-tinting mechanism and the clamping mechanism for securing the helmet to your head), but I was actually happy with that purchase.

Haven’t really purchased anything from there that hasn’t worked out, but, again, I don’t buy all that much stuff from there.

Som


#5

The 1/2 inch Earthquake impact wrench is a beast. Havn’t found anything on an e30 that it won’t break loose. Crankshaft bolt and axle nuts in particular. I also like thier bearings puller set for rear axle bearings.


#6

HF has some wheel dolly things that you can put under your car’s wheels, and then roll the car wherever you want it. The little wheels on these things are really weak so they aren’t going to handle a car’s weight unless the wheel dolly is on a very smooth surface. Any lateral force on the little wheels, because the surface is not smooth, will bend them. The wheel dollies are supposedly rated to hold 1500lbs.

I’ve long kept a set of these in the trailer because they can be handy for someone trying to get their wrecked car on to a trailer. The last time my set got used was to help Lako & Walsh when both of their cars got crunched at Road Atlanta a couple months ago. We noted, when we were done, that 2 of the little wheels were askew. I finally got around to looking at them the other week and there was no fixing the little wheels. The wheel dollies are just a shitty design.

So of course I went back to HF to fix the problem. I had intended to just buy new HF wheel dollies, but I got to looking at all of the replacement caster wheels. I ended up buying the most stout replacement caster wheels they had of the same diameter, drilled new holes in my old wheel dollies to accommodate the new caster wheels, and then mounted them. Theoretically, the 2 new wheels I bought are only rated at 275lbs, but they look a lot more stout then the wheels that failed.


#7

20 ton HF press bought in January of 2015. Used to remove old and press in new suspension bearings/bushings and press ARP wheel studs into new hubs. Worked fine the 30 or so times I used it and it is still in OK shape. Press lesson was that its not the press, its assembling all of the various press tools, receiver cups, etc. Learned that often times, sockets do not make good press tools. Metal Supermarkets is your friend.

Had to go to THD and buy some washers and other assorted hardware to assemble the press, as the top beam assembles to the vertical supports with some 1/2 or 5/8 (can’t remember) bolts, and they did not send enough hardware.

Important thing is squaring it up when you assemble it. Helps to have a large framing square, which I have.

Also need to periodically check that it remains square, which it does not if you really go to town on the pressure. On mine, the top beam needs to be periodically loosened so I can re-square it.

At $159.00 (with the coupon) it has paid for itself.

Mike


#8

I’ve actually had the opposite experience with these. I have a pretty small two-car garage. It’s pretty hard to fit all my guy-stuff in there while still being able to fit my wife’s car in the other buy. My solution is to use these dollies and slide the racecar as far over into the corner as possible in order to make room for other stuff.

They have also come in handy when a coworker left his car in the parking lot when he left for a business trip and we had to uh… strategically relocate it to the other side of the building.