Engine update

#1

I spent last week figuring out exactly what I was going to do, and then buying parts.

I also disassembled the Molitor block and took it to the machine shop.

They couldn’t use their dip tank to clean it because apparently you can’t remove the auxiliary shaft bearing (for oil pump) because that wrecks the block. And the aggressive chemicals in the cleaning tank attack bearings. So the I agreed to show up at the machine shop with my pressure washer Mon morning.

Monday morning found me at the machine shop with my pressure washer, sandles, shorts, dishsoap and goggles. And my pressure washer didn’t work.

Monday night I re-wired the pressure washer. Yesterday morning (Tuesday) I was back at the machine shop pressure washing the block. I’d have to say that pressure washing doesn’t seem to ddo shit to an old block. Oh well. Per Chuck Baader, I also pulled out the plugs in the oil galley and rodded it with a rifle bore brush. As I was running the bore brush thru the galley I was struck withe thought “finally, something that I know how to do”.

My pistons are in from BW, but I’m waiting on my con rods to return from reconditioning. The machine shop needs to have all that before they bore the cylinders. I’m hoping the con rods will arrive Monday and maybe the machine shop will be done with the overbore on Wed.

I’m not comfortable building the bottom end myself so a local shop is doing it for me. I get to assist. Hopefully the bottom end will be built by the end of next week.

I’ve not yet figured out how to do the actual motor swap. I’d prefer not to pay the shop to help me, but I’ve not come up with a better option.

I found a 3qt Accusump on CraigsList and lots of plumbing parts are inbound. I’m also getting a bigger oil cooler. I’m going to have a local hydraulic shop do most of the hoses. SS hose and AN fittings are too expensive.

I’m also redoing my gauge cluster and adding warning lights. I’m adding an oil temp gauge and installing a 30psi (Amber) and 20psi (red) warning lights. This is turning out to be a lot of work because I’ve already built and then discarded 3 cage panel ideas.

#2

If you aren’t in a huge hurry, you can do the motor swap if you have a hoist and a Bentley manual. I pulled my engine and rebuilt the bottom end over the winter. Take lots of digital phots as you pull stuff apart and name the photos to reflect what parts are shown.

I used colored electrical tape (6 colors in the pack from Home Depot) and labeled every connection as I took it apart and noted in the Bentley manual the color and number for each connection referenced in the manual. Just cycled through the colors and numbered them sequentially. R1, Y1, B1, O1, etc. for Red, Yellow, Blue, Orange, etc., then went on to R2, Y2, B2, O2, etc.

I labeled every electrical connection and every hose connection. With the photos it was easy to get it back together. Since you are installing a new motor, you will have to do some side by side comparisons to mark the connections on the new motor.

Rebuilding the bottom end isn’t that bad. The trickiest thing about putting the bottom end back together is the bearing caps. The plastigauge is pretty easy to use to check your bearing clearances. Just be sure to get a decent torque wrench. You will probably need two, one for higher torques and one for the low torque bolts. I recomment dipping the threads on the head bolts and connecting rod bolts in oil and putting some oil under the bolt head to prevent galling. I had some trouble telling the torque wrench clicks from the squeaking bolts as I tightened the head bolts because I put no oil on the bolt heads.

I had some help from a friend who had just replaced the crank bearings on a Miata. If you have anybody that can give you some general guidance, it is a manageable and fun project.

#3

I think that I’m ok to make the motor swap, it’s just that I see it as a 2 person job. I can’t both shift the engine and also put in bolts. I learned an assload during the epic motor swap at CMP in Feb.

Having swapped heads 10 times or so in Feb/Mar also helped my confidence.

I’m not willing to do the bottom end myself tho. I always screw things up the first time, and I want the bottom end done exactly right by someone as anal as can be. Maybe after I help the guy do the bottom end build I’ll be comfortable in the future doing it myself.

The guys that know what they are doing know all the tricks to getting the task done efficiently. But until you do something a couple times, you’re gonna screw up. The only question is “how bad”.

Thanks to all the engine adventures and Harbor Freight I have a garage full of tools to include cherry picker, stand and a full complement of air tools. Man how I wish I had a lift tho.

Re. torque wrenches. During the head adventures of Feb/Mar, when my compression and leakdown tests were all over the map, one of the things I did to eliminate possible sources of error was to check my torque wrench against the 3 favorite torque wrenches at “my shop”. I agree that you have to be careful about torque.

I also agree about some oil on the head bolt threads, but one would have to be careful about oiling the threads in the head bolt holes. Putting a head bolt in hydrostatic lock because of oil in the threads would be bad. I cleaned out the head threads with a q-tip.

#4

I did a google search but I couldn’t find one.

Is there a wiki entry that chronicles the great Ranger engine saga?

I am getting confused as to which head and bottom end that you are working on.

#5

csrow wrote:

[quote]I did a google search but I couldn’t find one.

Is there a wiki entry that chronicles the great Ranger engine saga?

I am getting confused as to which head and bottom end that you are working on.[/quote]

The great Ranger engine saga:

Early Dec08 Alex Molitor puts a new head on Ranger’s high mileage but perfectly serviceable motor. Motor runs like crap. Molitor says motor needs a ring & hone to handle his terrific head. Ranger paid Molitor lots of money.

Early Feb09 Ranger gets his non-running car and it’s mystery motor back from Molitor only with the assistance of the Dekalb Co. Sheriff.

A couple days later, Chuck, Robert and a cast of dozens help me, in a truly epic effort, to swap in a Strictly German motor at CMP.

The Strictly German motor turns out to have a tired head. I spent a month testing the Strictly German head and the Molitor head to make sure that the Strictly German head really was tired. The Molitor head turned out to be so worn out that it doesn’t even have core value. Initiated a lawsuit against Molitor.

I bought a new head but it tested poorly too so I sent it back after numerous tests and retests.

The shop that built it spent a couple weeks testing it and talking to me. Finally they sent it back to me. I put it on and raced CMP last weekend. Motor was strong but low oil pressure indicated bearings were going.

“Process Servers” were finally able to track down sneaky thief Molitor. He is now 2 weeks into his 4 week suit response period.

And that brings you up to date.

#6

If you remove/install the engine and transmission as a unit it isn’t difficult to do the job single handed. That does mean that you have to have a load leveler.

#7

ok, so you are on your third head but on which block are you seeing the low pressure?

Is it the Strictly German or your original (which went through Molitor)?

If it is your original engine, did you not have some rod bearing problem with that engine early last year?

#8

csrow wrote:

[quote]ok, so you are on your third head but on which block are you seeing the low pressure?

Is it the Strictly German or your original (which went through Molitor)?

If it is your original engine, did you not have some rod bearing problem with that engine early last year?[/quote]

Both motors had bad bearings. The Strictly German bottom end is the one that had low oil pressure at CMP 2 weeks ago.

Last year’s motor became my spare after Molitor hosed it up. When I dissembled it 2 weeks ago it’s main bearings were shot. The rod bearings were thin, but no copper showing. It had not had low oil pressure problems prior to it’s retirement in Dec08.

In Feb08 I replaced the rod bearings on that motor but the main bearings were ok. 9 months later the main bearings were shot and the rod bearings were getting thin. I had a crankscraper and ran 1qt high.

#9

jlevie wrote:

At the risk of sounding stupid…whats a load leveler and how does it work?

#10

DDO wrote:

[quote]jlevie wrote:

At the risk of sounding stupid…whats a load leveler and how does it work?[/quote]
That is a device for adjusting the angle of the engine while it is hanging from the hoist. An example of one is http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_19979_19979

A load leveler is essential if R&R’ing the engine and transmission as a unit. It takes a pretty extreme angle to fit the assembly into the engine bay and that angle needs to change as the engine goes in.

#11

A leveler is desirable, but not necessary to install the engine/trans as a unit. I removed the trans separately, but reinstalled them together.

I jacked up the rear end of my car higher than the front to improve the angle, laid a 6" wide piece of plywood from the crossmember to the floor and slid the tail of the trans down the plywood as two buddies and I manhandled the engine into place. A leveler would have made the job easier, but we got it done.

#12

Randy87is wrote:

[quote]A leveler is desirable, but not necessary to install the engine/trans as a unit. I removed the trans separately, but reinstalled them together.

I jacked up the rear end of my car higher than the front to improve the angle, laid a 6" wide piece of plywood from the crossmember to the floor and slid the tail of the trans down the plywood as two buddies and I manhandled the engine into place. A leveler would have made the job easier, but we got it done.[/quote]
You are correct, my use of essential is too strong a word. I’ve done the job single-handed w/o a leveler by brute force (and a lot of strong/nasty words, strained muscles, and adroit use of ropes, come-alongs, etc). And I’ve done it with a couple of helpers. But I’d still rate having a load leveler as a shade more than highly desirable.

#13

Ranger wrote:

Huh, bearings wearing out in 9 months with a crank scraper and an extra quart. Makes one wonder about the oil pump. Did you disassemble any of the oil pumps from your failed motors?