Does anybody have any rear suspension pics?

#1

I was told by IE my sway bar link was broken because it was binding and that caused the problem, installed wrong.
I installed it the only way it made sense to me, but I could be wrong, most probably, so a picture is worth a million words.
Thanx!

#2

Check out this thread
http://spece30.com/component/option,com_kunena/Itemid,94/func,view/id,21711/catid,10/limit,10/limitstart,40/

#3

Hi

Go here and I’ll bet you will find factory diagrams.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

DS

#4

I don´t need oem or factory diagrams on the suspension, I got that, and I have another stock e30 at home. I need pics or diagrams on the IE sway bar installed.
Going thru discussion and/or opinions is the last thing I’m looking for.
I need someone to tell me, install it like this, this is the right and only way, if there is such a thing.
Wonder why they don’t send you instructions with all aftermarket parts.

#5

http://www.brandnewengine.com/bmw/rear_swaybar01.jpg

http://www.brandnewengine.com/bmw/rear_swaybar02.jpg

See if these will help you out.

#6

Yes, that’s what I need. Thanx!

#7

Wow, no wonder it was binding, the bracket came loose and turn somehow, and they adjustable rod ends where at 90 degrees from each other.

#8

I must be very stupid and not doing something right. I tied the rod ends and brackets just like in the picture, put the car down and everything went to hell. The right rod end got bent, and the left link got stuck under the shaft. I guess I’ll be racing without a rear sway bar.
I got curious and checked my stock 325 and the link and rod ends are at 90 degrees just like in the diagram, and just as it was installed before which caused the damage in the first place. Don’t know what else to do without keep braking parts.

#9

Been there, done that (twice)… F’ing Ireland and the no instructions… Anyway, the deal is that you can’t “tighten” the bar down too much. You can adjust the bar ends in maybe about an inch max, past that, when you put the car on the ground, the ends flop the wrong way and bend the joints. FYI - you can get those Aurora joints at McMaster Carr. Simpler, easier and more reliable than getting (anything) through Ireland directly. Maybe West Coaster’s have better service?

#10

Nope, no better service, I guess the guy even got mad when I broke the first bracket because it was binding, but since no instructions, no diagrams I just installed them as the oem parts which I am guessing is wrong.
Yeah, I found the rod ends, but not Aurora, at Mcmaster Carr for around $6, at Pegasus for $13, and the place I ordered from Irvan Smith for $6.25.
You have any pics of your set up, I’m not trying to steal set ups from anybody, I just want to solve the problem, so if you are in the east coast there is no chance we even race together anytime soon. I guess everybody wants to keep their setup secrets.
Sorry I’m kind of uneducated regarding tightening, but what do you mean by that. Don’t screw the rod end too far into the female end attached to the bracket on the swing arm? I should measure the oem and make the same or just a little “tighter”, right?

#11

You can take a look at mine this weekend at Buttonwillow. You need the links as long as posible so when the suspension goes to full droop the rod ends don’t go over center. You also need to check the suspension at full bump to make sure the swaybar does not bottom out on the trunk floor. This should be checked by removing the rear spring and moving the suspension through it’s full range of motion. I also marked the adjustment range on the bar.

#12

Well, too bad I just read your post today, Monday. Between the rear sway bar and the melting motor mount I had my hands full this weekend. Barely made it to the track for the race on Sunday.
I will do what you suggest. So, the adjustments are on the bar and not the rod end?

#13

Victor, Your race on Saturday was exciting to watch. Hope this helps
With the car on jack stands and the wheels off:
1: install the bar
2: Remove rear spring
3: Install the links on one side
4: Adjust bar to full soft
5: Compress suspension with floor jack and a block of wood
6: Adjust the length between the heim joints so the bar will not hit the bottom of the trunk, remember that the bumpstop will compress when you bottom the car
7: Lower the jack so the suspension goes to full droop, limited by the shock
8: At full droop see how stiff you can adjust the bar befor it goes over center
9: mark the max stiff position on the bar. Error on the side of caution you don’t want the links to go over center when your car leaves the ground!
10: Repeat for the other side.

#14

Great! Thanx a lot! That’s very helpful. That’s why the UUC rear sway bar has a flat end with holes in order to adjust it.
I was thinking of welding a flat piece of metal with holes and drop the aluminum block.

Exciting race? Should’ve been behind the wheel, it was insane crazy running with the Super Unlimited group, 50 cars together.

#15

If I was buying right now UUC bars would be my top choice. Their front bar has two collars welded on to keep the bar centered on the car. I had to add collars to my ST bar because it was shifting from side to side. Hope to see you at Willow springs.