Cutting the strut towers


#1

Guys:

Lately, a few have asked if cutting the strut towers to get more camber travel, is legal. It is not. Any cutting (including trimming the center hole to get more travel) is not legal. If it has been cut already and an official or driver (who might protest it) sees it, it will be noted in the car’s logbook and must be corrected.

Remember, if it isn’t specifically allowed by the rules, you have to leave the car as it came from the factory.

Carter


#2

Won’t it also be a DQ since it is a performance mod?


#3

FWIW cutting the towers won’t be a big gain. I have 3.25 degrees negative on my car right now. with more to come by tweaking and getting the car to proper ride height. This was just bolting the car together and pushing the plates in. I’ve got about 1/4 of an inch before the perch hits the inner part of the tower. If you are cutting the towers to get enough camber you are doing something wrong.


#4

Rob…

I would like to know what I could be doing wrong, I picke up the Ireland adj plates from bimmerword. Carter and I could absoultly get no more than 2.3 on one side and 2.8 on the other. I beleive others have had similar stories. Essentially the bolt heads on the IE plate seem to limit the amount of camber.

Anyone find similar results…any ideas?

Carlton


#5

The slider bolts are the limiting factor for quick adjustment yes but the plate is very effective, I had about .5 degrees of adjustment before the bolts bottomed out on either side. I honestly think this is plenty of adjustment if you get the baseline amount correct.

I merely bolted mine up to max the camber and set the car down off the lift, straightened the wheels and stuck my guage on the hub. Measured 3.2 and 3.1 degrees on each side. This is with about a pencil width between the perch and the inner tower. Do you have a strut brace installed? Commonly they fit tight and the car has to be jacked up to unload the towers to install them. If this is the case remove the bar and remeasure. I bet you pick up a few tenths and you can shorten this bar a bit to compensate.

My chassis is fairly straight but still missing parts so is way light right now.
With bumpers, hood, rad, driver, cage, etc the ride height will drop further.
My control arms are still slightly declined from the inner ball joint. So with the added weight at proper ride height I will pick up a bit more camber. The car is a 87 prod 325is chassis, has 90 M42 driveline in it.

Email me at work with shots of the plate installed at the top. I want to see how you orientated the slider plate. Also from below if you can at all getting a clear view of the spring perch.


#6

traqrat wrote:

Actually…yes it will.

Carter


#7

I may have been laboring under a delusion, but I thought that the object of the exercise (cutting the struts) was to lower the ride height while retaining spring travel i.e., not bottoming out… :sick: :blink: :ohmy:


#8

mel22 wrote:

That’s cutting the strut tubes, shortening it, and welding it back together, which is also not allowed in SpecE30.


#9

traqrat wrote:

[quote]mel22 wrote:

That’s cutting the strut tubes, shortening it, and welding it back together, which is also not allowed in SpecE30.[/quote]

NOW my mental picture is compete…thanks. I wasn’t paying attention… :side: