cost of a used M20


#21

I’ll be rebuilding a motor over the next couple months. Here’s my part list:

head gasket kit 78.25
crankcase gasket kit 37.75
main bearing set 83.5
rod bearing set 43.5
piston ring set 109
piston wrist pin bushign 6 28.5
head bolt kit 18.5
timing belt kit 31.75
water pump 53
piston pin snap ring 12 9
conrod bolts 12 68.28
rocker arms 12 225
oil pump 143.89

	total		$930

All prices from pelicanparts.com Add to that a crank scraper and headjob labor. probably another $500. This assumes the pistons are good and the cylinders/block are in good shape.


#22

I Wonder if the dealer would accept an ETA as a core for a crate i motor?


#23

I noticed $225 for all new (12) rockers. I broke two at Mid Ohio 2 years ago - really makes for a crappy end of a weekend. Just trying to understand the reason to replace old ones that are not broken. Do they stress (which would make sense) that would make them more likely to break? Is this a "while I have the head open? Is this "there is a new, better design" thing? My mechanic only replaced the 2 broken ones, and told me not to worry about the others (I was thinking, "they are relatively cheap compared to what he was charging for labor, for a bit more, should I replace them all) - they are good right up until they go bad. Just trying to understand, in case I find myself in the same place I was last time (or if I am bored this winter). I know there are some billet ones out there…but WOW on the price - I could get 2 junkyard motors for that jingle!

Thanks!


#24

Better add new rockers, although you may have figured that into the $500 top end deal, my top end was $1000 as I needed a cam, springs, rocker shafts. Find a motor that is clean up top.

Al


#25

John Black wrote:

[quote]I noticed $225 for all new (12) rockers. I broke two at Mid Ohio 2 years ago - really makes for a crappy end of a weekend. Just trying to understand the reason to replace old ones that are not broken. Do they stress (which would make sense) that would make them more likely to break? Is this a "while I have the head open? Is this "there is a new, better design" thing? My mechanic only replaced the 2 broken ones, and told me not to worry about the others (I was thinking, "they are relatively cheap compared to what he was charging for labor, for a bit more, should I replace them all) - they are good right up until they go bad. Just trying to understand, in case I find myself in the same place I was last time (or if I am bored this winter). I know there are some billet ones out there…but WOW on the price - I could get 2 junkyard motors for that jingle!

Thanks![/quote]

IMHO, I would replace ALL 12 rockers if one breaks- unless it’s a POS beater and I was too broke to afford to fix it "right". If it’s a track/race car, then no question- replace all of them.

To answer your question, yes- the rockers fatigue over time and this contributes to their propensity to break. The M20 rockers were updated sometime ago, maybe 8-10 years ago. So, the original rockers are the "old" design and any new rockers will be the new better design- they’re beefier in the center section where they tend to break.

You hit the nail on the head when you said that replacing all rockers is relatively cheap- compared to the labor charge to R&R the head- and there should be -0- additional labor cost to install new rockers vs. the old ones. This could be the difference between a good weekend and one sitting on the sidelines watching others have a good time while you have plenty of time to wish you had replaced all of those rockers… :frowning:

Bret


#26

My engine blew at Mid-Ohio in July race. I just ordered a used one for $500 from Vines Automotive (via ebay. They said it has around 100,000 miles on it. Shipping from Alabama to West Virginia $125. It’s on the way now.
I would also be interested to know what items are recommended to do before/when I stick in in.
thanx,
tomzzy


#27

If it helps anyone, used M20 here for $450 in Massachusetts. I don’t know the seller.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=94834


#28

Here’s one on eBay. Better act fast…

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120160531101&rd=1


#29

Scott McMennamy wrote:

[quote]Here’s one on eBay. Better act fast…

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120160531101&rd=1[/quote]

No,no,no.

That Ebay listing says it came from a 325iX, I’ve got news for the seller- it’s NOT a simple drop in to a non-iX 325i. The head IS the same, and the pistons, crank, rods, etc are the same as the standard M20- BUT there are some strange things they needed to do to the intermediate shaft (the one that drives the oil pump) to accomodate the front wheel driveshaft. I honestly don’t know exactly what it would take to make it work in a 2wd 325i, but it will take some work.

Stay away from that one, unless you are looking for a project.

Bret.


#30

Bret Luter wrote:

[quote]Scott McMennamy wrote:

[quote]Here’s one on eBay. Better act fast…

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120160531101&rd=1[/quote]

No,no,no.

That Ebay listing says it came from a 325iX, I’ve got news for the seller- it’s NOT a simple drop in to a non-iX 325i. The head IS the same, and the pistons, crank, rods, etc are the same as the standard M20- BUT there are some strange things they needed to do to the intermediate shaft (the one that drives the oil pump) to accomodate the front wheel driveshaft. I honestly don’t know exactly what it would take to make it work in a 2wd 325i, but it will take some work.

Stay away from that one, unless you are looking for a project.

Bret.[/quote]
Not to mention the front axles and the oil pan are really cozy