Cluster part numbers


#1

Looks like I’ve found another example of "creative repairs"… While trying to diagnose some wierd happenings with the gages I’ve come to the conclusion (based on part numbers) that someone cobbled up a cluster with junkyard parts. It looks like the main printed circuit board is from a 318, the tach from a 325… Realoem doesn’t show part numbers for complete clusters, but that’s what I need to find one at a salvage yard. Since I don’t know how much, if any, of the original cluster is there I don’t trust any of the numbers I see.

Anybody happen to know that the BMW part number and the "K" number would be for an 87 325is (prod date 6/87)? It sort of looks like the same cluster may have been used for 86-9/87 325e/is cars.


#2

If you have the i tach, I have a cluster (minus the tach) from an 89 i I would sell


#3

The way I read the part numbers off of realoem it looks like the main circuit board inside of the cluster is the driver as to what will work. In addition to connections to the gages & SI board it also has the connectors to the car. The part number for that board changes in 9/87, so I suspect that one from an 89 may not work any better than what I have now.

I could live with it the way it is. The fuel gage, speedo & tach work. But the temp gage doesn’t and there’s a couple of lights that are screwy. I could just install a separate water temp gage, but it will bug me to no end to have a dead gage in the cluster and the odd lights (yeah, I know I’m being picky). So I’d rather put it back to the way it is supposed to be. That won’t be hard to do if I can come up with the correct part numbers.

As a last resort I can buy a new main circuit board and the SI indicator light board from my dealer. I find it interesting that you can’t get a complete cluster, but it looks like you can buy every part that it would take to build a cluster. Getting a used cluster would be cheaper if I can find the part numbers.


#4

the other one I have came out of my 87 vert BUT…it had been changed at some point to an ETA tach.
Anyway they are there and I can look at numbers on them if you want.


#5

I’ve got two 87 i car clusters, you can buy one if you want. I know that one of them works, but when I get the motor back in next week I can test the other.


#6

a dead or erratic temp gauge can be a sign of a ground attachment problem on the board
cheers,
bruce

jlevie wrote:

[quote]The way I read the part numbers off of realoem it looks like the main circuit board inside of the cluster is the driver as to what will work. In addition to connections to the gages & SI board it also has the connectors to the car. The part number for that board changes in 9/87, so I suspect that one from an 89 may not work any better than what I have now.

I could live with it the way it is. The fuel gage, speedo & tach work. But the temp gage doesn’t and there’s a couple of lights that are screwy. I could just install a separate water temp gage, but it will bug me to no end to have a dead gage in the cluster and the odd lights (yeah, I know I’m being picky). So I’d rather put it back to the way it is supposed to be. That won’t be hard to do if I can come up with the correct part numbers.

As a last resort I can buy a new main circuit board and the SI indicator light board from my dealer. I find it interesting that you can’t get a complete cluster, but it looks like you can buy every part that it would take to build a cluster. Getting a used cluster would be cheaper if I can find the part numbers.[/quote]


#7

I’ve checked all that. The gage is completely dead and when I trace the circuit from the connector pin on the main board it dead ends at a socket for the SI board. The correct SI board for the car doesn’t use that pin connection, so it is no wonder that the temp gage is dead. And the part number on the main board is for an early 318.

Additionally, the small circuit board, that should connect to the SI board, that has the service lights is missing. The SI board that I replaced (completely corroded from leaking NiCds) didn’t even have the connector for the SI display. Someone has done some real "creative repairs" here.