Hello all
Ive had my 1990 e30 for about 3 yr, i ve done alot of general maintenance. Just recently the check engine light came on and I get the 1221 code. I checked everything out, voltage was OK, cleaned all the electrical connectors, but the check engine still keeps coming on. when it dose the car loses power, if i take it out of gear and rev it a few tI’me, everything seems to be fine again.(?) The exhaust really smells so I’m assuming its running rich. My question is could this still be the o2 sensor or something else. I ve read on here about coils and other things being the cause. I just want to know where to start instead of just bolting on parts until i find the problem. Oh I also check the fuel pressure and its OK also
Thank you
ASLO
OK i thought i fixed the problem with the EVAP hose, but i decided to replace the o2 sen any way. The check engine light went off when the old o2 was in, but the exhaust still stunk, now with the new o2 the check engine light comes on at anything below 1000 rpm, once I’m driving or give it some gas it goes off.(?) and i cant get the check engine light to blink any more by doing the code check thing with the gas pedal. I’m at a loss, i have no idea what the problem is. Any ideas?
Thank you
Kelly
CHECK ENGINE????
That code (or 1222) can be caused by a bad O2 sensor, or anything else that upsets the A/F ratio. Since you replaced the O2 sensor (a good idea since their useful life is not more that 100k), I’d tend to suspect an intake leak, a bad AFM, incorrect fuel pressure, or bad injectors.
Did you use an OE sensor, or a generic? My experience with generics hasn’t been all that good. So much so that I now only use OE sensors. Other folks seem to have good results (mostly), but I guess my cars are just weird.
this may be too basic given your other symptoms, but are you sure your gas cap is sealing well?
bruce
Ive already checked the fuel presure it read 40 to 42, I think ive found all the vacume leaks. The o2 was a generic one. Is there a way to check (cheap) the AFM and the injectors? I would realy like to find the problem instead of just puting on parts and hoping to find the problem.
Thank you
Kelly
Never though to look at that. Been to busy working on the other end, but i take a look tomarrow. That would be great if that all it is.
1221 is O2 sensor
Reboot the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 30 mins
make sure you know your radio code
see if it still throws the code
KellyGuido wrote:
Don’t be a hardhead. You wrote in your first post that you replaced your O2 sensor. Assume that Sean already saw that when he suggested that you disconnect your batt for 30min to reset the ECU. Might as well try it.
Kelly - I feel your pain. I have been through a similar issue and basically gave up. I have been running my car for the last year with a flashing check engine light, replaced all of the components mentioned, and the car runs fine. I as well have not been able to reproduce the codes with the gas pedal procedure.
So, my advice, if the car runs OK and dynos OK, just race it!
Ed
My opologies to Sean, did mean to sound harsh, just alittle fustrated, i do thank all of you for all the advice. I sometime feel like Dr. House when im working on this car. Thank you all again.
If i diconect the TPS will the car still be drivable? Will anything else be affected(other than that cool sweepy thing winder the tack)?
Yes, see http://frwilk.com/944dme/afm.htm
In addition to the usual suspects (intake boot, hoses, etc), a problem with brake booster, evap control system, or oil filler cap seal or dipstick o-rings can result in a intake leak. And on a really tired motor, excessive blow by from worn rings can look like an intake leak.
As to injectors, they can be pulled and sent to a shop that can clean and test them.
KellyGuido wrote:
[quote]My opologies to Sean, did mean to sound harsh, just alittle fustrated, i do thank all of you for all the advice. I sometime feel like Dr. House when im working on this car. Thank you all again.[/quote] No offense taken.
I had a car that was having driveability issues and the ECU (it is adaptive) seemed to get to the end of the adaptive range… Rebooting it puts it back to default.
You can also try swapping the 2 orange relays on the driver side inner fender well. One is fuel pump, the other is the 02 heater.
KellyGuido wrote:
TPS I am pretty sure needs to be connected so the ECU knows the throttle position to either engage or disengage the IAC valve
Correct! And the throttle stop and TPS must be correctly adjusted (see the Bentley manual for the procedure).