Center net mounting (one more time)


#1

I might be the only SE30 car with a custom cage and no dash bar. I am in the process of installing my center net and do not have anything to attach the front strap to. Short of taking out the dash and having a dash bar welded in what can I do to secure the forward strap?

I am getting desperate, along with a couple of the other Raleigh guys, to get this installed before the race at VIR less than 2 weeks away. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.


#2

eye bolt in the sheet metal under the wind shield?


#3

Ken - This is what we did. Pushed the strap through the dash next to the on-board computer. Mounted an eye bolt to the firewall. It is a straight shot and rathches down pretty tight. See pictures - I have others if you need them.
Ed


#4

Scott,

I thought about an eyebolt through the firewall about radio height but there is a lot of "stuff" in the way. I guess I could take a chance an use a long drill bit and hope I don’t hit anything vital. Maybe not.

Ed,

That is a pretty good solution. Do you feel like the net is close enough to your right side with the front strap mounted off to the right slightly?

I am also interested in your homeade cool shirt cooler. What all did it take to make that?


#5

Ken - it is very close. See the picture below how it wraps around the seat.

Regarding the cool suit setup, the one in the picture came with car - manufactured by Ric Bergstrom. I made one for my car of a different design. I used a boat sump pump (360 gph), 3/8 pe tubing, and some quick release pipe fittings from McMaster-Carr. I can give you the part numbers if you want and can get some additional pictures.
Ed


#6

edavidson wrote:

[quote]Ken - it is very close. See the picture below how it wraps around the seat.

Regarding the cool suit setup, the one in the picture came with car - manufactured by Ric Bergstrom. I made one for my car of a different design. I used a boat sump pump (360 gph), 3/8 pe tubing, and some quick release pipe fittings from McMaster-Carr. I can give you the part numbers if you want and can get some additional pictures.
Ed
[/quote]
I want, I was thinking of doing the same, but don’t know where to get the parts from.


#7

Vic - I got the net from BSR in North Carolina -www.BSRproducts.com
Ed


#8

I think he was taking you up on your offer of part numbers for the cool suit components …
bruce

edavidson wrote:

[quote]Vic - I got the net from BSR in North Carolina -www.BSRproducts.com
Ed[/quote]


#9

Good call Bruce.

Vic -

www.mcmaster.com (under fittings … quick-disconnect tube fittings)

51545K73
Gray Polyprop Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Socket, 1/4" Tube ID, 1/4" Coupler, Shut-Off Valve
Need 2 for connection to the shirt, 4 if you also want a quick disconnect at the cooler.

51545K66
Gray Polyprop Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling Plug, 1/4" NPT Male, 1/4" Coupler, Straight Thru
I got 2 of these as well since I did add a quick disconnect at the cooler. The straight through design allows you to blow though the lines to clear out the water in the shirt/feed lines. If you don’t, the shirt has shut off valves that make it difficult to drain the water out of it and it gets gunky during the off season. Same for the feed lines

You can get 1/4 ID polyethyene tubing at local plumbing supply stores or Lowes/Home Depot. I got the bilge pump from a local boat supply store. I used a 360 gallon-per-hour pump and it flows just fine. You will need to get a 1/2 inch piece of tubing and adapters to get down to the 1/4 ID to connect to the feed lines. I just picked up from a local hardware store. Run the lines though the upper portion of the cooler (used a 9 quart Coleman), use rubber grommets (3/8 in ID) and some silicone sealant. Same for the electric lines. I tapped into the circuit for the rear defroster for the power so I could use the defroster switch to turn on/off. Run the other to ground. I mounted in the trunk with a velco strap riveted to the floor. Get ready for the coolness.
Ed


#10

some great ideas there Ed!
bruce


#11

Ed,

Is your eyebolt welded to the firewall, or just heavy duty nuts and washers?

I have to find an inexpensive solution, as, like Ken, Chris Schimmel extolled the virtues of not having a knee bar when building my cage and I’m not relishing the thought of either buying a new $1,000+ seat or ripping out my dash to install a bar.

  • Dan

#12

Dan - One one of our cars, we used an eye bolt and the back up plate they sell for harnesses, supposedly required by SCCA (it is a 4 x 4’ square metal plate). On the other, just a big, about 3", washer and nylock.
Ed


#13

edavidson wrote:

[quote]Dan - One one of our cars, we used an eye bolt and the back up plate they sell for harnesses, supposedly required by SCCA (it is a 4 x 4’ square metal plate). On the other, just a big, about 3", washer and nylock.
Ed[/quote]

Ed,

That is a very good idea. Wish I would have known that 2-3 weeks ago; I would have probably tried to attend VIR.

It is for the best, however, as I am training for a triathlon so I will probably not be back racing again until October. As Nationals gets closer, I might change my mind.

-Steve


#14

I finally mounted my center net today. First attempt was like Ed suggested but it placed the net too low and was basically not effective.

I pulled out the right center dash vent and used a long 1" spade bit and made a tunnel clear to the fire wall. Then used a 1/2" metal bit to drill through the firewall which came out in the space beneath the wipers. I inserted a 12" long by 1/2" eyebolt through the opening and tightened the nut on the back side. The eyebolt is about 1" behind the surface of the dash and at the perfect height for my net. Sorry no pictures but if anyone is interested I can email them to you.


#15

Steve - It would be great to race with you at Nationals. Hope you can make it.
Ed


#16

Ken - sounds like your setup worked out well. I think we were able to get ours in a decent position due to movement of the cage mounting points. Look forward to checking out your setup this weekend.
Ed