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9.3.8.8 Suspension bushing material replacement is permitted.
My project this weekend is to install Bimmerworld’s GC delrin control arm bushings, which got me thinking about the aft end of the car…
Before ordering, I thought I’d ask what bushings other folks are using for the rear subframe & trailing arms? Delrin, urethane, aluminum, other…? Any advantages of one type of material over another?
Thanks for your thoughts!
Steve
Good question, I know what is available but never got around to replacing those bushings. Anyone change them and wish they didn’t?
Dave P. and I along with 4 customer E30’s use Bimmerworld parts listed below. Very happy with the quality and ease of install. However if when you install the adjustable trailing arm bushings you will need to have the car professionally aligned.
Powerflex 3 Series Rear Subframe Bushings - Race Version
E30 (84-91 3 Series)
E30 3 Series/Z3 Adjustable Trailing Arm Bushings
Steel Core (recommended for track use)
hope this helps
brain
Thanks brain. When you say "ease of installation", what exactly does that mean? 
And can you give a "before & after" comparo?
"ease of installation"; With a lift, the proper tools and alittle patience they went in without any problems.
As for before and after comparo. Rear negative camber stock 1.3 deg. With the bushings 3.1 deg.
I thought I read about people installing something to undo the negative camber at the rear that results from lowering the car. The reason given was that high negative camber at the rear hurts putting the power down. Obviously you’ve opted to go to the other extreme. Have you tracked it yet to test the results? My 325is is pretty tail-happy around town, but I suspect the hard Yokohama’s that came on it have something to do with it–my e36 M3 didn’t walk sideways at start-up or break loose between 1-2 and 2-3 shifts like the e30. I’d like to plant the rear end better.
Sasha
FYI,
Toyo’s are optimized to run at -3 deg camber (according to the Toyo factory Website).
I run -3.2 w/ .25deg total toe in (front)
-3.0 w/ zero toe in the rear
No problems with ride height or getting the power down
hope this helps
brain
I have solid aluminum rear subframe bushings now in stock. They are cheap too. I should have something pretty pimpy for the rear trailing arm bushings before too terribly long. The rear subframe bushings are super nice as well.
I have solid aluminum rear subframe bushings now in stock. They are cheap too. I should have something pretty pimpy for the rear trailing arm bushings before too terribly long. The rear subframe bushings are super nice as well.
Can anyone comment on using the non-rubber bushings (e.g., poly, alum, etc) on a car that must still be driven on the street (albeit basically only the track and back)? I expect the ride to be, well, harsh, but is it dangerous to the car in any way? I just have this terrible fear that if I hit a pot hole the control arm or other component will break/bend because the bushing has no/little flex to absorb the shock.
Until I can get a trailer/tow vehicle, streetability remains somewhat of a concern.
Post edited by: kioneo, at: 2006/08/22 19:44
kioneo wrote:
[quote]Can anyone comment on using the non-rubber bushings (e.g., poly, alum, etc) on a car that must still be driven on the street (albeit basically only the track and back)? I expect the ride to be, well, harsh, but is it dangerous to the car in any way? I just have this terrible fear that if I hit a pot hole the control arm or other component will break/bend because the bushing has no/little flex to absorb the shock.
Until I can get a trailer/tow vehicle, streetability remains somewhat of a concern.<br><br>Post edited by: kioneo, at: 2006/08/22 19:44[/quote]
I still drive the car to & from races (for now) and with urethane & delrin bushings it’s not an issue. I can’t say I would be real comfortable going to a solid (aluminum) bushing if it’s still driving on the street with any regularity (but that’s me)
Good luck