Building a Spec E30 - Rough Build Cost

#1

I’ve been investigating going Spec E30 racing next year once my wallet and skill catch up with my desire. These are some rough numbers I’ve come up with to help me with the process. This would be a "from scratch" build, ie. a car that would need everything. Granted, I hope to not have to do all of this at once, I’m setting the budget now. Please let me know where I need to amend or add.

Spec E30 Build Sheet

Safety
Roll Cage $1,700.00
Seats (mounts etc. . ) $1,500.00
Harnesses $220.00
Hans Device $850.00
Tow Hooks $50.00
Fire Suppression $300.00
Kill Switch $60.00
Window Net $75.00
Driving Suit $800.00
Gloves $100.00
Shoes $100.00
Baclava $50.00
Socks $50.00
Shirt $50.00

Suspension
Springs $400.00
Shocks $400.00
Control Arms $175.00
CA Bushings Front $180.00
Sub Frame Bushings $100.00
RTAB’s $50.00
Fixed Camber Plates $150.00
Sway Bars W/Reinforc $350.00
Diff Mounts $50.00

Maintenance
Radiator $200.00
Clutch $200.00
Flywheel $150.00
Pads $200.00
Rotors $200.00
SS Brake Lines $90.00
Motor Mounts $100.00
Wheel Bearings X 4 $400.00
Full Exhaust $400.00
Belts $50.00
Timing Belt $45.00
Valve Adjustment $250.00
Water Pump $90.00
Tensioners $100.00
Tie Rods $100.00

Miscellaneous
Steering Wheel $120.00
Quick Release $100.00
Gauges $400.00
Two sets Wheels $1,050.00
Ra-1s 1 Set $480.00
Rains 1 Set $400.00
Cool Shirt System $400.00
Brake Cooling Kit $400.00
Rebuilt Diff $600.00
Stud Kit $190

Total: $14,475.00

I’ll be at VIR for Ofest. I hope to track some of you guys down to check things out and meet some new folks.

Thanks,

JP

#2

Your prices seem way to high…Here’s my actual build sheet. Also, a lot of the things you mentioned are unnessesary to be competative.

Driving Suit, gloves , Shoes etc… All G-force equipment that is good quaility for the price, cost - $650

Seats: plural? unless you expect to do alot of DE, just buy one seat. A high quality aluminum seat should only cost about $200-300.
Harness: My top of the line sparco cost $175 and you can get a G-force set up alot cheaper than that.
Quick Release not needed. E30 has lots of room to get in and out
Guages: Rules say you have to run stock cluster. extra guages are superfluous
Cool shirt setup: Never used one, just seems like extra wieght to me. But some guys love’em
Rebuild diff: Unessesary. Swap the fuild with some redline gear oil and go.

could go on, but you get the point…If you look around you can find good deals on things (some used, some new) Bimmerworld offers package discounts and other suppliers such as Inertiawerks and OG racing have great deals on racing supplies.

I’ve posted this before, but here it is again. This is what I actually spent to build my Spec E30

[size=4][color=#0000FF]1989 BMW 325i Race Car build budget: [/color][/size]

Car $2200.00
Engine / Trans Re-seal gasket kit $350
Engine Timing belt and valve adjustment $50
Redline / Mobil 1 fluids $50
New Dis Cap $59
Dis Rotor $21
Coil $58
8mm Perf wires $142
O2 Sensor $70
Custom Exhaust (remove Cat) $300

Interior
Roll bar install $1750.00
Window Net $75.00
Battery Kill switch $25.00
Limited Slip Diff $300.00
AMB Xponder $300.00
Rotors (Zimmerman X drilled) $207.00
Hawk racing pads $170.00
Sacks Clutch Kit $213.00
Sparco Corsa Seat in blue $463
Sparco Steel Seat Side Mount $45
Sparco 6pt Racing Belts $227
Sparco “Pro� Steering wheel $142
Sparco hub adaptor for BMW $52
Brey Krause Seat Brace $250
Roll bar padding $25
SS brake lines $89
ABS Plastic Door Panels $125

Suspension Components
H&R Springs (per rules) part # 50404-88F/R $400
Bilstein Shocks and Struts part # P36-0335 or P30-0334
Front, part # B36-2027 Rear $400
Fixed Camber Plates $125
Sparco Strut tower brace $175
Racing dynamics rear strut bar $189
Rear Shock Mounts $90
Delrin bushing font control arm $90
rear sub frame bushing $120
Adjustable trailer arm bushing $200
Rear Sway bar reinforcement bracket $90
L/R Control Arms $125
22 mm front (non adjustable) 19 mm rear sway bar (adjustable) Suspension Techniques Sway bar Kit $320

Wheels and tires(Team Dynamic wheels 2 Sets)Toyo RA-1 (2 sets) $2000.00

Labor…This is the big area to save if you have the skill to do it your self. If not plan on about $2000-3000 for someone to do everything for you. Dave Pallister at DP Motorwerks helped me with the things that were over my head.

[color=#FF0000][size=4]Total $9800.00[/size][/color] Not including the price of the car or labor to install some parts.

Obiously there are places that you could reduce costs if needbe…I spared no expense when building the car so this should be the upper end of what someone might spend.

Hope this helps any perspective races interested in getting started.

Post edited by: brain, at: 2005/08/30 20:45

#3

WOW.

I might have $7500 in the car…including the car. Seriously.

I stole a car (well not really…just found the perfect $750 dollar 75000 mile ran when it was parked, but doesn’t run now BMW…that was 300 yards form my home!!)

I scrounged stuff off ebay. (Springs, sways, delrin front cabs, Hawk HT8’s) I sold parts off the car on ebay to recoup costs (close to the purchase cost if not a bit more).

I use bottle caps. 14’’ tires are cheaper anyways.

I bought stuff from guys getting out of racing E30’s.

I made some decisions to not rebuild/ some stuff or defer it until later (RCAB, SUB FRAME BUSHINGS, DIFF, Brake ducts)

I bought quality stuff but not premium stuff (steel instead of aluminum seat mounts, Racer wholesale belts and nets instead of Simpson, James Clay $50 rotors!).

I bought a used cool shirt and made my own cooler. (thanks Carter!)

There are ways to cut it down to size. You may not be flying first class anymore when you are done…but at least you are flying!!!

I seriously doubt that anything on my car is holding me back anymore than my (lack) of driving skills and experience. (of course now that I said that the wheels will fall off and I’ll punch a rod through the block next race)

Now if you want to spend that much…more power to you! I just don’t want people to get scared off seeing that number. You can build a decent car that won’t kill you and will get you on track for a decent amount of money.

The ideal path is DE with a stock car, slowly modding it as time and $$ allow. Then one winter rip out the interior, build a cage and finish the "race" part. Comp school and then go race!

See you at turn one…

Ric

Post edited by: 30Spece30, at: 2005/09/23 13:20

#4

155MPH wrote:

[quote]I’ve been investigating going Spec E30 racing next year once my wallet and skill catch up with my desire. These are some rough numbers I’ve come up with to help me with the process. This would be a "from scratch" build, ie. a car that would need everything. Granted, I hope to not have to do all of this at once, I’m setting the budget now. Please let me know where I need to amend or add.

Spec E30 Build Sheet

Safety
Roll Cage $1,700.00
Seats (mounts etc. . ) $1,500.00
Harnesses $220.00
Hans Device $850.00
Tow Hooks $50.00
Fire Suppression $300.00
Kill Switch $60.00
Window Net $75.00
Driving Suit $800.00
Gloves $100.00
Shoes $100.00
Baclava $50.00
Socks $50.00
Shirt $50.00

Suspension
Springs $400.00
Shocks $400.00
Control Arms $175.00
CA Bushings Front $180.00
Sub Frame Bushings $100.00
RTAB’s $50.00
Fixed Camber Plates $150.00
Sway Bars W/Reinforc $350.00
Diff Mounts $50.00

Maintenance
Radiator $200.00
Clutch $200.00
Flywheel $150.00
Pads $200.00
Rotors $200.00
SS Brake Lines $90.00
Motor Mounts $100.00
Wheel Bearings X 4 $400.00
Full Exhaust $400.00
Belts $50.00
Timing Belt $45.00
Valve Adjustment $250.00
Water Pump $90.00
Tensioners $100.00
Tie Rods $100.00

Miscellaneous
Steering Wheel $120.00
Quick Release $100.00
Gauges $400.00
Two sets Wheels $1,050.00
Ra-1s 1 Set $480.00
Rains 1 Set $400.00
Cool Shirt System $400.00
Brake Cooling Kit $400.00
Rebuilt Diff $600.00
Stud Kit $190

Total: $14,475.00

I’ll be at VIR for Ofest. I hope to track some of you guys down to check things out and meet some new folks.

Thanks,

JP[/quote]

As others have pointed out, you certainly do not need to purchase all that stuff to build a competitive car. Now if you want to that’s your business as well.

A couple things…

Seats…buy one good driver seat and if you want to replace the stock passenger seat just buy something cheap, should only cost $200 or so, maybe a little more with mounting. Under $300 though.

Driving suit…after using a "cloth" suit my first year of racing I definitely think it’s wise to buy a nicer, multilayer suit but you can get a very nice one for less than $400.

Control arm bushings…$90.

You could easily save $$$ on the wheel bearings and exhaust. I plan on cutting out the stock cat and running straight pipe back to a cherry bomb muffler. Hiflo, lightweight, cheap.

You only need an alternator belt (PS if you plan on keeping it) so even if you have a couple spares you’re talking about $25. A timing belt kit will all replacement parts is less than $40 so you’re close there.

I would probably avoid the diff as well…unless it’s completely toast. In that case simply by a used diff.

I’m assuming you’re talking about a 325 rather than a 318 but you certainly can save several hundred bucks if not more by cutting back on things you really don’t need or can source for better prices.

Course as I said, it’s your cash so do as you wish. Hope this helps!

#5

Thanks for the quick replies guys.

I wasn’t looking at this as the definitive list. I don’t plan on doing all of those modifications at once or at all. I was just trying to give myself a worst case scenario. I’ll have a decent size budget as I plan to sell my 95’ M3 track car to finance the bulk of the car and build. I really hope to come in significantly under budget as I could then use the rest to campaign the car (read: backmarker :laugh: )

I’m a solid year away from starting, but I’m going to drag a few friends down with me. This really seems like a great way to start racing in a BMW. The IP club racing approach was just going to break my wallet. Hell, they’re all running Hoosiers every weekend. . . .

Thanks for the help.

JP

#6

155MPH wrote:

[quote]Thanks for the quick replies guys.

I wasn’t looking at this as the definitive list. I don’t plan on doing all of those modifications at once or at all. I was just trying to give myself a worst case scenario. I’ll have a decent size budget as I plan to sell my 95’ M3 track car to finance the bulk of the car and build. I really hope to come in significantly under budget as I could then use the rest to campaign the car (read: backmarker :laugh: )

I’m a solid year away from starting, but I’m going to drag a few friends down with me. This really seems like a great way to start racing in a BMW. The IP club racing approach was just going to break my wallet. Hell, they’re all running Hoosiers every weekend. . . .

Thanks for the help.

JP[/quote]

JP,

I think you have a good plan there bud! I kinda figured you were budgeting for worst case. When we did out prelim budget we came out to nearly $13k (I can’t recall right off if that included the car, I don’t think so) but in the interest in building a decent car at a reasonable price, we droppped several "niceties" that are not required to run competitively.

You’re right too, spend the money on the driver! ; ) That is especially true in cars/classes like this. Gotta learn to get every ounce out of these cars, and hey, let’s face it, that’s at least half the fun!

Cheers man!

#7

155MPH wrote:

[quote]Thanks for the quick replies guys.

I wasn’t looking at this as the definitive list. I don’t plan on doing all of those modifications at once or at all. I was just trying to give myself a worst case scenario. I’ll have a decent size budget as I plan to sell my 95’ M3 track car to finance the bulk of the car and build. I really hope to come in significantly under budget as I could then use the rest to campaign the car (read: backmarker :laugh: )

I’m a solid year away from starting, but I’m going to drag a few friends down with me. This really seems like a great way to start racing in a BMW. The IP club racing approach was just going to break my wallet. Hell, they’re all running Hoosiers every weekend. . . .

Thanks for the help.

JP[/quote]

JP:

Don’t forget about a tow vehicle and trailer, unless you plan to drive it to the track. I did for the first couple of years but the long-hauls got a bit tough…

And where are you located? We’re interested to know where there is Spec E30 interest.

Carter

#8

Right now I’m located in Burlington, NC.

I’ll have the tow vehicle and trailer covered under another budget. I don’t plan on driving to and from events as I don’t like driving my DE car to events - much less my prospective Race Car.

I’ll be at Ofest to snoop around, there seems to be quite a few KP/Spec E30 cars registered.

JP

#9

Hey guys. I think the build sheet looks pretty good. Its surely a rough estimate but better to overbudget than to get in over your head.

I appreciate all the help you guys provided with resources for finding a car. I found an e30 with a couple of mods and plan to drive it for the next year and a half or so of driving schools. Its closer to a KP car than Spec but it has some great features; low miles, up to date maintenence, full records and its ready for the track.

Some of you probably know the guy selling the car so Ill save the details and post the link to the for sale thread. i know a lot of stuff will have to come off of the car to be legal but Its perfect for schools and maybe I can trade some parts down the road or get some money for them (read: spare change for used parts) But Im not concerned with recouping costs. JP and I are mediocre wrenchers at best but thats half of the fun in it for me.

I live in Durham, JP lives in Burlington and we have another friend close to acquiring an e30 for the spec series. I think we have some solid interest around here for the series and I hope this thing continues to grow. With almost 2.5 million e30’s (worldwide) its a great idea!

Let me know what you think about the car, good bad or ugly.

http://members.roadfly.com/jkuper/index.htm

Thanks,
Brian

#10

BUMP.

Good place to start when looking to build.

Michael O.

#11

What do you guys do about oil pressure drops on left handers? The M20 has a way of running very low OP because of where the oil pickup is. I think some people use an Accusump, I and others have a crank scraper. Surprising this doesn’t come up more often on build sheets.

By the way, I agree with above - $14K would be high side, probably about $10K if you economize a bit. I’m almost done with mine and experience has taught me where I could have saved money, but I’m pretty happy I spent extra to do things like new control arms, tie rods, bushings, that technically you don’t have to do but makes me (and my wife) more comfortable with racing.

#12

Crank Scraper works great. The only reason I still have my Accusump in is I need balast and the rules allow me to locate it anywhere, unlike real balast. :wink: