Brick House build thread


Hello to everyone again.
After a year of domestic realignment, I am finally getting started on a new Spec e30 built for the Southeast region. I will try to use the technical content on the forum to answer basic questions. I would appreciate any helpful advice on the things I can’t figure out. I hope to be racing this fall. Some of you my remember me from RRR last year in my ChumpCar e30.

Basic details
1989 325i could 6 speed
3.73 LSD
Engine just back from machine shop. .5mm over


Ok, found my first issue. Looks like a previous owner though cutting out the rear bulkhead was a good idea. My question is, how original must the repair be? Can I can and weld in a new bulkhead, or do I need to try to find a scrape car to cut a latch out of? I am really hoping a homemade bulkhead is ok.i would use steel sheet metal and weld it in so there would not be any weight advantage.


I wouldn’t worry too much about this. I would treat this as a safety issue, not so much a rules compliance issue. Your home-made idea is fine. Slap something on there that is reasonably strong so the driver is protected from anything dislodging in the trunk and trying to come forward.

Most of us have big holes in our rear bulkhead that were cut by the cage builder. Your hole is just bigger than most, which is a phrase you don’t hear every day.


So I’ve the interior out and am planning the build. I have reviewed the current rules and browsed the forum. Some of the forum entries at very old and it looks like the rules have evolved over time. I would like to clarify a couple of items.

  1. The instrument cluster may be removed and replaced with aftermarket gauges?
  2. The front doors inner steel sheet metal may be completely cut out?
  3. Can a replace the steering shaft coupler with an aftermarket poly coupler?
  4. Can the rear trailing arms be reenforced by triagulating them similar to the e30 M35? The rules only mention reenforcing the pickup points.
  5. Can the low amperage DME power input (pin 18) be wired outside the kill switch,fused, to hold up the DME memory when the kill switch is open?
    6 can the heater and blower controls, OBC, hazard and headlight switchs be removed. Not specifically mentioned in the list of interior items that may be removed.


  1. See

  2. See Yes, completely.

  3. It’s not specifically authorized but no one will care. From what I’ve read tho, it’s difficult. It’s not impossible that someone someday would protest such a thing, but hopefully the person adjudicating the protest will be reasonable.

  4. No. If the mod isn’t in the rules, you can’t to it. I know that #3 above contradicts it, but there’s little shit that no one will care about, and then there’s mods that have performance potential.

  5. See NASA CCR 15.8. Most folks don’t use the killswitch routinely, so it’s likely that it will only be used once/yr, so the idea of trying to bypass the killswitch seems like a lot of hassle for little gain. Whatever Long Term Fuel Trim (LTFT) #, and other “learned” environmental values are stored in your DME’s memory, will be calculated again in a moment or two of mid-throttle operation.

  6. Yes, all that can be removed. Be aware tho that it is likely that NASA will soon require that your taillights work in order to race in the rain. Alternately, they may spec an aux rearlight, but real taillights would be best because their spacing provides some depth perception info to the guy behind you.

Have fun.


It looks like the shock listed in the rules have been superceded. I assume the new part numbers are allowed

B8 Performance Plus - Shock Absorber (click for more info)

Part Number: 24-020275
Series: B8 Performance Plus
Position: Rear
Old Part Number: B36-2027
Old Part Number: F4-B36-2027-H2

B8 Performance Plus - Suspension Strut Cartridge (click for more info)

Part Number: 34-003350
Series: B8 Performance Plus
Position: Front
Old Part Number: F4-P36-0335-H1
Old Part Number: P36-0335


Good find. I think you’re right. I’ll bring this to the attention of national director Shawn Meze.


Getting ready to buy wheel studs. Looks like 82 or 92mm are available. Using DForce 25ET wheels. Not sure if I will do wheel spaces but want the option. Any issues using the longer studs without spacers?


You want 1/2" spacers all the way around with 25mm offset wheels. Use ARP mushroom head studs that press in from the rear of the hub. Length of stud does not matter, just keep them lubricated…wheel bearing grease works well.