[quote=“FishMan” post=72202]I don’t believe your symptoms are anything to do with the ABS sensors. A faulty sensor will only cause a light to trip after the ABS light initially goes out and you move the vehicle a few feet.
Remove the connector from the ABS module and check readings at the main ABS connector. This is the only way to validate components and the wiring harness. Readings should be as below:
-Pin 1: Reads 14v with car running. Will not have voltage if main relay is bad.
-Pin 10, 20, and 34: Ground.
-Pin 15: 14v with car running. This is the charge indicator from the alternator.
-Pin 25: 14v when you activate brake switch; no voltage with brake switch open.
-Pin 29: .65 to .75v; this is the green red wire on the negative side of the warning light.
-Wheel sensors all measure about 1000 ohms (rears 1100ish); FL-Pin 4 and 6, FR-Pin 11 and 21, RR-Pin 24 and 26, LR-Pin 8 and 9.
If all readings check out, you have confirmed your wiring harness is proper and that the problem must lie with either the ABS control module or hydraulic pump unit.[/quote]
Thanks for the voltages to check. My ABS failed to work for me at Memphis last race weekend. I was having battery issues I thought, but it turns out my alternator is only putting out 12 volts. Is it possible that once the volts dropped low enough in that race that the ABS would stop working? Apparantly my bulb is burned out because I get no ABS light. I finished the race and the battery was dead enough that it wouldn’t start the car to get it on the trailer. I’m getting a new alternator today, and I will troubleshoot it further. Can we get the bulbs at a local parts store for the ABS light?