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We stock pads and rotors for your E30.
We can accept Hawk Bucks
We can offer SUBSTANTIAL discounts on race pads.
For best results -
email - sales@knsbrakes.com
call Nick - 919-420-0021
Extra discount to anyone who helps me solve my ABS issue. We have tested/metered just about everything.
-Ken
ken, this is dave martin who bought the brakes from you 2 weeks ago. they worked great this past weekend, thanks!
as for you ABS, did you check the relay that pops a wire inside of it?
Relay - checked/replaced
ABS module - Power and ground pins all checked
ABS pump - works when shorted - relays appear operational
Power fuse - good
Light is on w/ ignition and stays on
[quote=“lightningd” post=72183]ken, this is dave martin who bought the brakes from you 2 weeks ago. they worked great this past weekend, thanks!
as for you ABS, did you check the relay that pops a wire inside of it?[/quote]
Hi Dave!
We’re not racing yet but I 'll get 4 hours in the car at VIR this weekend!
[quote=“KNSBrakes1” post=72184]
Light is on w/ ignition and stays on[/quote]
Indicative of low alternator voltage and will prevent ABS from activating. Search for my “ABS retrofit” thread where I documented ABS wiring during install.
[quote=“FishMan” post=72189][quote=“KNSBrakes1” post=72184]
Light is on w/ ignition and stays on[/quote]
Indicative of low alternator voltage and will prevent ABS from activating. Search for my “ABS retrofit” thread where I documented ABS wiring during install.[/quote]
Looking for your thread now.
I think we were 13.9ish V from the alternator.
I don’t believe your symptoms are anything to do with the ABS sensors. A faulty sensor will only cause a light to trip after the ABS light initially goes out and you move the vehicle a few feet.
Remove the connector from the ABS module and check readings at the main ABS connector. This is the only way to validate components and the wiring harness. Readings should be as below:
-Pin 1: Reads 14v with car running. Will not have voltage if main relay is bad.
-Pin 10, 20, and 34: Ground.
-Pin 15: 14v with car running. This is the charge indicator from the alternator.
-Pin 25: 14v when you activate brake switch; no voltage with brake switch open.
-Pin 29: .65 to .75v; this is the green red wire on the negative side of the warning light.
-Wheel sensors all measure about 1000 ohms (rears 1100ish); FL-Pin 4 and 6, FR-Pin 11 and 21, RR-Pin 24 and 26, LR-Pin 8 and 9.
If all readings check out, you have confirmed your wiring harness is proper and that the problem must lie with either the ABS control module or hydraulic pump unit.
Back to the brakes thing, have you thought about offering a contigency? It doesn’t half to be much (but it sure can be, lol) but it would help with publicity.
[quote=“FishMan” post=72202]I don’t believe your symptoms are anything to do with the ABS sensors. A faulty sensor will only cause a light to trip after the ABS light initially goes out and you move the vehicle a few feet.
Remove the connector from the ABS module and check readings at the main ABS connector. This is the only way to validate components and the wiring harness. Readings should be as below:
-Pin 1: Reads 14v with car running. Will not have voltage if main relay is bad.
-Pin 10, 20, and 34: Ground.
-Pin 15: 14v with car running. This is the charge indicator from the alternator.
-Pin 25: 14v when you activate brake switch; no voltage with brake switch open.
-Pin 29: .65 to .75v; this is the green red wire on the negative side of the warning light.
-Wheel sensors all measure about 1000 ohms (rears 1100ish); FL-Pin 4 and 6, FR-Pin 11 and 21, RR-Pin 24 and 26, LR-Pin 8 and 9.
If all readings check out, you have confirmed your wiring harness is proper and that the problem must lie with either the ABS control module or hydraulic pump unit.[/quote]
Thanks for the voltages to check. My ABS failed to work for me at Memphis last race weekend. I was having battery issues I thought, but it turns out my alternator is only putting out 12 volts. Is it possible that once the volts dropped low enough in that race that the ABS would stop working? Apparantly my bulb is burned out because I get no ABS light. I finished the race and the battery was dead enough that it wouldn’t start the car to get it on the trailer. I’m getting a new alternator today, and I will troubleshoot it further. Can we get the bulbs at a local parts store for the ABS light?
Low alternator voltage will certainly cause problems. I think a burnt out light might as well…
With Hawk and Toyo already offering it gets crowded.
I think we’d rather just offer low prices to the community.
-Ken
Low alternator voltage will certainly cause problems. I think a burnt out light might as well…[/quote]
If the ABS light is inop, ABS will not work.
[quote=“KNSBrakes1” post=72251]With Hawk and Toyo already offering it gets crowded.
I think we’d rather just offer low prices to the community.
-Ken[/quote]
contingency never gets over crowded lol. if i was in your shoes it would be something i would consider to get my company’s stickers on cars.
Well I pulled my gauge cluster out today, and what did I find but that I actually had no bulb in the ABS socket. I know my ABS has worked without a bulb when I raced in the rain a couple times. I replaced the alternator and got 13.7 volts at the battery and went and bought some bulbs, and my ABS light works as it should now lighting up when I turn the ignition on and then going out once I start the car. Still have to put my new pads and rotors on to give it a good test tomorrow before loading up the trailer.
I got my new PF08’s from you Friday and installed them this afternoon. I have argued in the past how awesome the ht10 pad was and really never thought I’d change. Then I drove my Dad’s car with 08s installed this past weekend at CMP and I am a changed man. Can’t wait to use them this weekend at Road ATL.
Thanks KNS