Bolt in cage to get started?

#1

Hi,
New to this group. I am setting up my 90 325is for HPDE’s and TT’s with hopes of club and spec racing in the future. Has anyone installed a bolt in cage for the up front learning process and then had it welded in later. I am trying to stretch the $ for now and get as much done as I can. Any input appreciated.
Thanks
Vin

#2

There’s one on Craiglist right now somewhere in NC. I think Charlotte, or maybe it was Greeneville SC.

#3

Vin,

I believe several of us have gone that route. I know I did. There are “pros” and “cons” to this approach. But I say go with what works to get you out there, that you feel safe with and works with your budget. I’d suggest fixed back seats and 6 point belts at the same time as the bar…

#4

I just installed nascar door bars and a new down tube for a customer that had a bolt in bar in his Mustang. The fit was so poor, he had a very difficult time getting in and out of the car. We welded all the joints as well. The problem with bolt in are that they are designed for easy installation and the fit is usually not very good. By the time you buy a bolt-in install it, pay someone to weld it up and modify it later, you could have an excellent designed custom cage. Custom cages not only fit right, but they are stronger and safer. Safety is not something you want to comprenmise on. I do a beautiful custom cage for $1850 for comparision.

#5

You could do a back half cage for the HPDE and then have the front half installed later to save money.

#6

You didn’t mention if you would be trailering the car or driving it on the street.
If you will be on the street at all, I would recommend the welded half cage option, if anything.

The cage is one of the hardest things to patch up later, so invest on the front end. Get one installed that runs in front of the dash (so you can remove the dash later to make a multitude of tasks easier). And forget that word “invest.” It doesn’t apply to a race car. Helmet, HANS, belts, cage, seat, etc. Those are good investments.

If it were me, I would spend enough to get a welded cage from somebody with a good reputation. But only if I could buy a head-restraint seat, 6 point belts and a HANS at the same time. Then I would do brakes. You can postpone suspension, sticky tires, cool wheels, etc. I wish I had driven longer on street tires but I went to R compounds pretty soon. Like my first time on track.

Also, put a cheap camera on your list. Mount it where you can see yourself. Then review the video and see how smooth your inputs are. Try to go smooth and you will end up going fast.

Welcome to the track. An addiction for which the only cure is poverty.

Steve D.

#7

FWIW: I agree with Steve 100%
The best way to go with this little bit at a time approach is weld-in and build it up in 2 stages. But… I went with the bolt-in 4 point Kirk bar. It did what I needed it to do. Once I was ready to build the cage, it took me 20 minutes to find a buyer. The depreciation was nil.

#8

Thanks for the input guys. Keep it coming. I have already put money into suspension, brakes and tires this winter. I needed to refurbish much just to make it street worthy so while I was at it I installed the spec setup, The car was rust free and original but needed mechanical attention upfront. I plan to drive to and from the track for now. I just don’t have the money now to do a weld in and get a seat and harness, never mind a second seat and harness as some groups require.

#9

I started with a Kirk Racing 4 point bolt in, which is what I am using now for HPDEs. I have had it for a while and am ready to sell it and put in a full cage. If you happen to be in NC, I can sell you mine. I don’t want to ship it though.

#10

Higt001,
Thanks, I have no plans to be south any time soon.
Vin