Battery Tie-Down Pics?

#10

I wound up going with a hybrid approach for the time being. Threaded rod on the left side, metal strap on the right. The strap loops down under the battery compartment and screws into the body where I found a convenient spot. At the battery, it’s connected to a piece of square aluminum tube, which is also connected to the threaded rod.

It’s a bit of a kludge, but it works. I’ll take a look at some of the other cars at VIR next weekend and get more ideas. Ultimately I’d like two threaded rods to hold down the square tube, but can’t seem to find room on the right side to attach it. Hopefully I’m just being dense and seeing some examples firsthand will make it click.

Thanks for the ideas!

#11

Turbo,
FWIW the lack of this “supplemental” hold down was one of 2 items that kept me off track an extra day after comp school this spring because the TI wasn’t well pleased. I’m with Ranger here.

#12

Dang, I have never had a “supplemental” battery tie down…I thought that the batteries were designed to be held from the bottom, like stock and that a bar across the top would cause the battery to crack in an accident.By the way, in my 2 big accidents over the years that resulted in totaled out cars, no problem with the battery

Al

#13

Is the factory hold down/set up legal?

#14

I would say, it depends who techs your car.

This year, my factory hold-down did not even raise an eyebrow. however, I got dinged for having a wet cell battery and “openings” in my bulkhead. The openings consist only of the factory openings; the bulkhead is otherwise completely sealed, even where my b-pillar bars pass thru it. Solution? A new dry cell battery, which will require a new hold-down because it can’t be secured at the bottom like a typical battery.

But at least now, I won’t be burned by battery acid in a wreck, ya know. :S

#15

I don’t understand why the TI’s can ding us for “infractions” of unwritten rules. It’s cost me a track day and an extra $150 so far this year. I can hardly wait until next year when I get the next list of undocumented go dos. Is this consistent across the series and across the organization?

#16

Relax–you have a logbook now. Just take it to the guy you used before to get your annual before the season starts.

#17

The series is consistantly made up of humans and is therefore imperfect.

The battery hold down requirement is genuine. The problem is that it failed to turn up in the Jan11 CCR like it should have. It’s on my list of rule change requests to make in the Fall so this will get fixed.

The solid rear firewall requirement is imaginary. A well intentioned TI inspector made the wrong call. Shit happens. Take a deep breath.

Jon Stroup was told his battery had to go into a sealed battery box, so now it is. That inspector was also wrong.

#18

I think a battery box for a wet cell would be a bad idea, concentrate fumes that are explosive… and it is really hard to seal off the rear bulkhead, another reason a fuel cell in the trunk is a bad idea Thin about this, where does your battery cable route? is there anywhere it can get pinched in a wreck? It is a really good way to start a fire. My experience with NASA tech guys has been pretty positive, now with vintage guys not so much.Guys from other teams would give me tech stickers just to keep me away from the tech shed…In my opinion the stock hold down works for batteries designed to be held from the bottom, lessening the chance of cracking due to over tightening or puncture in a wreck

Al

#19

I didn’t take pics of the final product but it involves a motorcycle tie-down and should be good for holding at least 2400lbs of force. The factory tie-down is also in place.

[attachment=1890]2012-07-1114.39.21.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=1891]2012-07-1114.39.59.jpg[/attachment]

#20

"I don’t mean to be augmentative, sir, but could you show me that requirment in the CCR? Honey, etc…Chuck

#21

Has anyone mounted the battery in the spare tire well? Makes some sense to put the weight lower and centered in the chassis. Is this safe and legal?

#22

You could do that, but the spare tire well is pretty weak (just a few spot welds hold it in). And the spare tire well is in the crush zone, just like where the battery normally mounts. Personally I want the battery and it’s cables in a better protected spot and have mine mounted between the shock towers.

#23

I like the idea between the shock towers. I think I may mount it in a marine style battery box with a vent tube. Thanks!

#24

[quote=“King Tut” post=67180]I used two threaded rods and a piece of square stock. It definitely was a tight fit to get the rod inbetween the battery and the body of the car to the right of where Ranger welded his though. Here is a pic before I swapped the too bendable flat stock for some square stock:

[/quote]

I like your setup. I tried to order terminal covers similar to what you had but didn’t work out dimensionally. (looks similar isn’t quite the same as sized similar) Could you happen to share where you tracked those down from?

I ended up finding this and ordering it to give it a try but thought it would be worth an ask.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7SAO52

#25

Speaking from experience, the stock placement doesn’t survive in a wreck that has any gusto, so , in a marine box between the towers is a good idea!

Here in Norcal we need to be in a box to be compliant…

[quote=“rwh11385” post=81056][quote=“King Tut” post=67180]I used two threaded rods and a piece of square stock. It definitely was a tight fit to get the rod inbetween the battery and the body of the car to the right of where Ranger welded his though. Here is a pic before I swapped the too bendable flat stock for some square stock:

[/quote]

I like your setup. I tried to order terminal covers similar to what you had but didn’t work out dimensionally. (looks similar isn’t quite the same as sized similar) Could you happen to share where you tracked those down from?

I ended up finding this and ordering it to give it a try but thought it would be worth an ask.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O7SAO52[/quote]

#26

Different rules for different regions really bothers me. I got those terminal covers from the local Advance Auto Parts and modified them to work around the OEM BMW battery terminals.

#27

I welded a barrel nut and used a piece of threaded rod.
[attachment=2098]BatteryHoldDown.jpg[/attachment]

#28

Are you sure about the NorCal rule? I don’t have my battery in a marine box and I know of other cars that have been tech’d and not in a marine box, either. I was under the impression the marine box was only necessary if you were going to move the wire inside cabin (inside of the trunk wall).

For my tie down, I created 2 brackets with thread couplers welded to them (similar to Scott’s solution, but I didn’t weld to the trunk floor). I created an L bracket that I bolted to the holes that are in that flange sticking out of the wheel well, and another bracket that I bolted to the flange sticking up at the edge of the trunk floor. The rest is the same idea as

L-bracket bolted to flange on wheel well

Bracket bolted to flange on trunk floor

Som

#29

It was a huge deal at the time but if your battery/trunk is 100% sealed from the drivers compartment you were ok, otherwise,

Tech Note Regarding Battery Acid/Fume Protection for SE30s:

To accommodate those racers who missed either the June/August 2011 event(s) and were not aware of this enforcement action, NASA Tech has moved the compliance date for getting batteries compliant with CCR Rule 18.8 out until the first event of the 2012 season.

2012 Annual Safety Inspections will enforce Rule 18.8 therefore all our SE30s should be compliant by the first event.

NASA warns that non-compliant cars will be subject to fines.

Thanks,
Scott

18.8 Battery
The battery shall be securely fastened down to the car. No Bungee cords or rubber cords may be used to function as the sole hold down mechanism. An electrically non conductive material must cover the positive battery terminal. Any battery located inside the driver’s compartment shall be fully covered and firmly secured to the chassis in a marine type battery case. True dry cell batteries may be mounted without a surrounding case, however a case is still recommended. Note- there is a difference between “dry cells” and “gel cells.” Gel cells still need to be mounted in a case.

[quote=“Som” post=81079]Are you sure about the NorCal rule? I don’t have my battery in a marine box and I know of other cars that have been tech’d and not in a marine box, either. I was under the impression the marine box was only necessary if you were going to move the wire inside cabin (inside of the trunk wall).

For my tie down, I created 2 brackets with thread couplers welded to them (similar to Scott’s solution, but I didn’t weld to the trunk floor). I created an L bracket that I bolted to the holes that are in that flange sticking out of the wheel well, and another bracket that I bolted to the flange sticking up at the edge of the trunk floor. The rest is the same idea as

L-bracket bolted to flange on wheel well

Bracket bolted to flange on trunk floor

Som[/quote]