Are skid plates allowed?

#1

I have a buddy who is a budding fabricator and is getting into the E30 scene. He is coming up with a really solid and durable skid plate design.

I was seeing if you guys would be interested if it is allowed under the spec E30 rules.

Basically it would consist of a .120" wall tubing between frame rails dropping just below the level of the oil pan about 2-5" in front. The skid plate would be either 3/16" or 1/8". (accepting comments of which would be better in regards to weight to strength ratio)

The skid plate would bolt to the subframe, current design via the 2 rack bolts. And extend forward bolting directly to the roll/crash bar and curving upwards after the bar.

For structural reasons the bar will need to be welded in as a bolt in solution is not feasible.

Sorry if I did not read the CCR’s as I am not directly involved with SpecE30.

Thanks for any feedback.
Robert

#2

Robert,

If you look in the red drop down menu on the left you will see a link to the Spec E30 rules where skid plate rules are outlined. I don’t know them by heart but maybe have your buddy check them out and see what he can come up with.

#3

here is the rule

9.3.8.15 One single-piece flat aluminum sheet, no thicker than 1/16” may be installed to protect
the oil pan. It shall serve no other function and may not exceed 20” wide X 26” long.
The leading edge must be attached to the lower radiator support and the trailing edge to
the front subframe.

#4

leggwork wrote:

[quote]here is the rule

9.3.8.15 One single-piece flat aluminum sheet, no thicker than 1/16” may be installed to protect
the oil pan. It shall serve no other function and may not exceed 20” wide X 26” long.
The leading edge must be attached to the lower radiator support and the trailing edge to
the front subframe.[/quote]

Thanks, my laptop is terrible at loading PDF’s

#5

I managed to knock a hole in the oil pan at Road Atlanta this past weekend. Skid plate is nice insurance.

#6

You can make one yourself or get one from here.

T1 at Road Atlanta loves chomp on oil pans.

#7

Yea factory3 already has them.
I recently saw a SE30 that ran off into a sand trap, busted in the oil pan,which broke the motor and transmission mounts, which shoved the motor foward and back, which busted out other expensive parts. He did not have a skid plate, which could have helped prevent this.
Im going to order one from factory3 over the off season.

#8

We tested the factory 3 model this weekend…if we did not have it we most likely would not have finished the 8 hour and possibly could have lsot the championship. I will not race without one, just imagine a small trip over the gators that just cracks your pan letting enough oil out to cause you or the 4 or 5 guys behind you to spin off track…the skid plate prevents it.

Al

#9

I saw the skid plate that gave its life to protect Travis’ oil pan. That thing took quite a whack!

I have one on my car from Factory3. I requested a rule clarification from Carter since that widely-used piece is not a “flat aluminum sheet” and from eyeballing it I would guess it is thicker than 1/16". Clearly the intent is that it is legal.

I personally don’t think a welded-in solution is necessary or wise given how much access to the engine you would lose.

I, too, have lost an oil pan to Turn 7 at Road Atlanta. This is cheap insurance.

Steve D.

#10

Thanks for all the replies and story’s related to the skid plate. I just got done replacing a shattered oil pan today.

The skid plates we are going to make are more designed for aggressive street duty where you have lots of speed bumps, nasty dips, exposed manhole covers etc…

I do alot of suspension work and when I lower street cars on H&R race springs being driven on the street, I just say a prayer and give the oil pan a blessing.

Under these circumstances I just can’t see a bolt in 1/16" aluminum skid plate being sufficient. Also with the weld in loop bar this would effectively strengthen the front frame rails. As a note, only the support bar welds in, the skid plate itself bolts to the subframe and the support bar and is fully removable. We are also looking at ways of making the bar a bolt in feature. But rules are rules, so none of this matters much to you guys.

To be honest I am rather surprised at the thin material (1/16" ALU) called out for your race plates.

Thanks again for the replies and I wish the best to all of you, and happy holidays.

Robert

#11

FARTBREF wrote:

[quote]We tested the factory 3 model this weekend…if we did not have it we most likely would not have finished the 8 hour and possibly could have lsot the championship. I will not race without one, just imagine a small trip over the gators that just cracks your pan letting enough oil out to cause you or the 4 or 5 guys behind you to spin off track…the skid plate prevents it.
Al[/quote]

Same for me - after my RA turn 1 off in August my Factory 3 skid plate really took a beating but my oil pan was untouched.

#12

I have the skid plate for you. I have been making these for a year now and they work great.
www.raceskids.com
peerless wrote:

[quote]Thanks for all the replies and story’s related to the skid plate. I just got done replacing a shattered oil pan today.

The skid plates we are going to make are more designed for aggressive street duty where you have lots of speed bumps, nasty dips, exposed manhole covers etc…

I do alot of suspension work and when I lower street cars on H&R race springs being driven on the street, I just say a prayer and give the oil pan a blessing.

Under these circumstances I just can’t see a bolt in 1/16" aluminum skid plate being sufficient. Also with the weld in loop bar this would effectively strengthen the front frame rails. As a note, only the support bar welds in, the skid plate itself bolts to the subframe and the support bar and is fully removable. We are also looking at ways of making the bar a bolt in feature. But rules are rules, so none of this matters much to you guys.

To be honest I am rather surprised at the thin material (1/16" ALU) called out for your race plates.

Thanks again for the replies and I wish the best to all of you, and happy holidays.

Robert[/quote]

#13

ejnight wrote:

[quote]I have the skid plate for you. I have been making these for a year now and they work great.
www.raceskids.com
[/quote]

Since the rules prohibit plates thicker than 1/16", I don’t think your 10 gauge piece would be legal. And one of the forum sponsors (www.factory3performance.com) sells his version for $45. A lot cheaper than your $195.

I think you will find this group quite receptive to cheap and legal. :laugh: Let us know what you have that falls in those categories!

Steve D.

#14

I don’t really understand the reason for the thickness rule, but it is what it is. Thicker means more weight. Why would anyone mind if a car wanted to be heavier in the front?

#15

Steve D wrote:

[quote]ejnight wrote:

[quote]I have the skid plate for you. I have been making these for a year now and they work great.
www.raceskids.com
[/quote]

Since the rules prohibit plates thicker than 1/16", I don’t think your 10 gauge piece would be legal. And one of the forum sponsors (www.factory3performance.com) sells his version for $45. A lot cheaper than your $195.

I think you will find this group quite receptive to cheap and legal. :laugh: Let us know what you have that falls in those categories!

Steve D.[/quote]

My plate is approved for other BMW race class and street tested. I was only offering it because He asked for a plate that would protect him on the street. and there had been discussion about the thin plate did not stand up very well. It is a custom plate and sells to the community for $165 I could make a thin aluminum one but the flat rule and the fact that you have one already makes it a mute point. I can make other things just let me know what you are after. [file name=th_HPIM0444.jpg size=3802]http://spece30.com/media/kunena/attachments/legacy/files/th_HPIM0444.jpg[/file]

#16

Steve D wrote:l. And one of the forum sponsors (www.factory3performance.com) sells his version for $45. [/quote]

For future reference, the Factory 3 piece will also fit with a Paul Poore oil pan. The bend needs to be about 1.25" farther forward but I was able to flatten & then rebend my existing skid plate without any trouble to work with the new pan.